Triple Mikuni and Webers
Discussions around the triple Mikuni & Weber carb setups
70 topics in this forum
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- 12 followers
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I am going to be ordering a triple weber setup for my L28. First, my engine basic stats: L28 F54/Flattops, .040 bore, E31 Head which is ported/etc, 500/300 cam, 6-1 header, pertronix igntition, etc. My whole engine install thread here: I've been running the round top SU's with SM needles. They go lean up top despite the needles and repeatedly checking the floats/fuel delivery/etc. Looking to go triples. The good news is my engine was built as a backup for a race car and it came in the crate with jet sizing written on the valve cover. So I have a good starting point. Just hoping you guys can help fill in the blanks. I am learning here. …
Last reply by blodi, -
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- 9 followers
- 221 replies
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Well some of you that I am now proceeding with my Mikuni install.When I purchased these carbs I got lucky and recieved a very complete kit. These look new right out of the box-infact the carbs came in a Mikuni box:) I even recieved an original 1985 catalog and service manual. I decided to post up parts of these Mikuni publications on here for all to view. Between the two publications I have part numbers and illustrations of the carbs and their parts. Let me know if there is anything in particular that you might want to see. I know folks buy these carbs with the intent to rebuild, but not much to go on. I hope this thread and pics will help. I'll start out with the some…
Last reply by Galaxybj, -
- 4 followers
- 51 replies
- 5.2k views
I recently jetted my triple dhla 40s for a standard N42 L28 and the car felt like it was running great. Basically no hesitations and clean acceleration throughout the the rev range. Carbs are all in sync more less and very responsive. I wanted to do some fine tuning and put on a wideband o2 sensor. The car according to my gauge is running absolutely rich as it gets. I can set it to idle around 14-15afr but as soon as I touch the gas it goes right to 7-9 afr and cruises at 9. The jets/chokes I know are around the proper size. 32 mm chokes, 130 mains, 35 pumps, 7772.5 emulsion. 50 idles, 195 air correctors. What would possibly be the cause of it running super ric…
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
- 3 followers
- 46 replies
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Need some Help... The issue I'm having is idle hanging up around 1500. It will lower to normal (900 rpm) if I blip throttle. Getting tired of doing that in traffic. Middle carb is hanging , but only when engine is running. Carbs open and fully shut very smooth when engine off. Vacuum holding plates open?. Maybe it has to do with the balance tube on the cannon manifold. all carbs have been rebuilt. I swapped carb position and problem stays in middle carb. I heard the cannon manifold suck. Does anyone have some helpful info for me? TIA. 20190815_164848.mp4 20190815_164500.mp4 20190815_180041.mp4
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 6 followers
- 37 replies
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I have been having issues with my OER SK 40mm carbs. The problem is very elusive and I have not been able to find the source. I will do my best to describe the problem and I am willing to clarify if needed. I am going to refer to carb(#1) as cylinders 1 and 2. Carbs #1 and #3 are perfectly fine, it is carb #2 that is acting up. I started to sync the carbs, first by disconnecting all the linkages. I managed to balance #1 and #3 using an unisyn tool. However, #2 (cylinders 3 and 4) would be run leaner than the others. I unscrewed the idle mixture screws for #2 a few turns, and it leaned out even more resulting in popping out the carb and a nearly white spark plug. Also…
Last reply by esmit208, -
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Hello Gents, As the title states I am experiencing some issues during deceleration when coming to a stop using the gears. I can put the car in neutral and it stays running. But when I use the gears to help with the stop especially when coming in hot and fast the engine just wants to die. It always dips to 500 RPM and most of the time just stops running. It idles good, it runs good going thru the gears, sounds freaking awesome! but the damn stop..... Been tuning the carbs for a few weeks and I think it is real close. Idles at 1000. Fuel PSI is 3.5. Fuel return line is capped. I barely have the 2-3K rpm stumble. I can tell it pulls very nice all the way to 5500 …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 6 followers
- 31 replies
- 3k views
I am in a bit of a quandry. I have a set of Mikuni PHH 44 carbs on a Mikuni manifold AND a set of Weber 40 carbs on a Cannon manifold. Either set will need to be refurbished. I'm trying to decide which ones to put on my stroker motor. I'm not going to ever race the car but I do intend to drive it in a spirited manner every now and then. Years ago, I talked with John Coffey about this choice and he gave me his advice as a racer who spends hours near redline - which is something I shall very rarely, if ever, do. His advice was to use the 44s, but, then again, he was a racer. I know quite a few members have carbed strokers. So what have you guys experienced? …
Last reply by inline6, -
- 30 replies
- 6.3k views
Yup, the regulatory plunger in my Mallory pump stuck and I ended up sending 18 psi to my webers for darn near a minute before I realized what was happening. I made a thread over that problem, including the solution. I am not back to a rock steady 3 psi. However, when I started it up the very first time after this happened the car acted very funny at first. One of the floats was stuck all the way down and I was running on 4 cylinders for a while. I tapped the top of the carb where the float needle is and the fuel pressure dropped to zero then increased to read 3 psi like it should, meaning it was being held completely closed and empty and when I tapped it, so…
Last reply by LeonV, -
- 2 followers
- 23 replies
- 7.2k views
I have been fighting with the throttle cable on my Triple Webers for years. Just never had that perfect OEM feeling the push pull rods gave me (after they were rebuild and in perfect condition mind you) So Mike W. was kind enough to put me onto the Harada manifold. This this has all the features I have dreamed of in a manifold. It has a cast in bosses to hold the teflon bearings for the throttle rod. The throttle rod is BEEFY so deflection is not an issue on the middle carb. It comes with a Cable guide that should you want to run a cable should make the throttle feel excellent. It also has a torsion spring on the end that is awesome. I had drawn up one like this i…
Last reply by rossiz, -
- 2 followers
- 23 replies
- 3.9k views
Hi Guys, Just installed a rebuilt set of 40DCOE's. I can't seem to get the car running. Is their only 2 adjustments, the throttle linkage adjustment at the base of the car and the idle mixture screw by the rear. I did notice a few plugs have gas on them and there was plenty of gas in each carb. Is their any other adjustment I am missing? Also what is everyone using to block the fuel first fuel line and the coolant lines to the old SU's? Finally who sells the throttle linkage? Thanks!
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
- 2 followers
- 22 replies
- 2.9k views
Hello, I have triple 42 DCOE 8 on my stroker 3.0L L28. Car starts easily and idles nicely. The car is new to me so I can't really comment on the performance, but I can say a single cylinder seems to be running pig rich. I'm firing black out the tailpipe and the #5 spark plug is black and wet. Compression on the cylinders is decent (115psi-125psi) and my coolant was oil free on a recent change. In other words, it isn't a new engine but it seems to be in decent shape. A couple questions I'd appreciate input on: 1. Is there anything in particular to look for on servicing the carb for a single side possibly running rich? 2. What are peoples' experienc…
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
- 2 followers
- 22 replies
- 882 views
I'm helping a guy get his unfinished project on the road, on a bored out L24 is new set of triple Weber 40 DCOE 151, made in Spain. The choke tubes are 30mm, air corrector jets 170, pump jets 40, idle jets 60-F8, emulsion tube F11 and the main jets are 125 Although they only have a few minutes of running time on them they have had gas sitting in them for a few years I would think so had to do open covers and clean them out. With linkage disconnected I've adjusted the throttle stops to half a turn open, set the linkage to be identical for all 3, idle mixture screw to 1 full turn open. Ideally, I would like the engine to start up on the first turn of the ke…
Last reply by grannyknot,
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