Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,641 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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here are my DIY reconditioned badges, They were all faded no black was left . Now they have there black back and all that is left is buffing before installing on car. tell me what you guys think if they look good or if I should buy new ones. [ATTACH]35239[/ATTACH]
Last reply by Oregon260z, -
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Here's a few pictures from down under (no offense Aussie bros). What am I up against...and how soon?
Last reply by redneckz II, -
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Well I started painting my 260z I couldnt afford real paint so I did the $50 paint job that I came across on the internet and so far I must say it dosent look to bad. Iam only to coat 3 but boy it sure shines compared to my old blue paint job. Yes the seals around the windshield were painted but Iam buying a new seal that my friend said he would install sence he works in the windshield repair business( for free yay ). Hope it turns out good but from what I can see so far its gonna look nice once it is cut/and polished up. Here is a slideshow of the car so far please dont hate to bad on me :paranoid: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v202/jlnuna/cars/260z/?action=view…
Last reply by Oregon260z, -
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OK I'm going to use a restoration shop for paint and some dent repair. One of my worries it matching the #920 paint code. This isn't a common color and I've seen some color matches on Zs that were not to my par. I have seen some that look very accurate also. My question for you #920 guys is what paints gave you the most accurate to original finish and color? And anything else used to get that original paint look. I'm even considering locating original paint, but that might be a little extreme.
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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Hello everyone, I apologize if this is in the wrong thread, as the subject is not limited to S30s, but I figured I'd give it a shot. I am in the process of restoring my 1970-71 CA Blue License Plate for my Z, and would love to hear if anyone had experience with it? The biggest problem I am facing now is finding a matching color right out of a can. Has anyone had any luck with finding a color that matches the blue and yellow on these plates? I went to a paint shop to try and get a mixture once, and the employees proceeded to tell me that I would get a ticket for it :stupid: I am leaning towards spray paint just because it results in a smoother texture, opposed to if I w…
Last reply by spitz17, -
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Can somebody enlighten me on a couple of things regarding the front bumper of Series 1 Z Cars. I bought the front bumper override bar off e-bay, but it is several inches too short. 1) Is the placement of the "Bumperettes" different in cars from 1969-1971 versus 1972-1973? 2) What is the distance between the "Bumperettes" from the inside of one to the inside of the other in '69-'71 cars? same for '72-'73? Thanks!
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
- 9 replies
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Well I have bought a large handful of wet automotive sandpaper, and I want to give my engine bay a go to try to get the original color back. All my surfaces feel like overspray and are relatively rough. I think if I knock down all of this it will get the grime out and feel/look more OEM. I have tried soap and water and that did help a tad, but some of this stuff is just too set in to come out. Can people give me a few basic 'do no harm' wet sanding techniques that I can try? I want to get the engine bay in a more detailed finished look. Thanks!
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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All: I am looking for the best and easiest way to clean up an engine (other then the engine cleaner you can by at an auto store) and paint or pretty up the engine so it looks nice if I wanted to show my 280Z. Any suggestions? Thanks
Last reply by JoelZ, -
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- 990 views
I ended up pulling the whole door part today upon discovery that the door handle was quite loose and that the lock mechanism doesn't lock. The lock problem was easy to fix once I was able to wrestle the chrome window sash an window glass out of the door (holy crap what a pain). The door handle looks simple, too, I think it's just a lack of lock washers that allowed the nuts to work loose. The rubber seals on the handle were shot, one of them crumbled, so hopefully I can order replacements for those. Another thing I found was, the handle I worked on sat too close to the paint and had tapped on the door enough times to wear through the paint. Do I need to/should I put s…
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
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I live in San Mateo California and am looking for a good paint shop for my 240Z refresh project. The car is very clean and straight with no visible rust problems. (I've really looked). Does need minor door & fender re-alignment, treatment of surface rust (only) under the battery and has four small (1/4"- 1/2") dings. Plan to re-paint silver with a contrast stripe. Repaint wheel wells, engine bay and door jams as well. Car will be delivered to paint shop w/o drivetrain or interior, (but dash will remain in-place). All exterior chrome, lights, etc will be removed, as well as front, rear side and hatch windows. (Door windows will remain in-place). I'm looking to sp…
Last reply by conedodger, -
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Hi everyone, So....about a couple of years ago, someone here made some reproduction inspection lid clips (I can't remember who but I cant thank them enough). I just had one break and consulted my brother (design engineer) about making a replacement. He had two possible suggestions and I thought I would run it by everyone here. The first plan was to have him machine them out of a different type of plastic that in his opinion works and lasts much longer than the material these were made from. I can't remember what it was exactly. It was something called Delwin? (trade name) and he can have it made from a solid piece of material instead of using a mold. After talking wi…
Last reply by cbudvet, -
- 12 replies
- 4.5k views
Got an aftermarket strut, but don't want to modify the mounts to make it work. So I drove the roll-pin out of the original strut base and removed the bottom cap. This exposed a gasketed phillips head screw that opens to the gas chamber. The strut piston seems to hold pressure, but how do I re-pressurize it? Any ideas?
Last reply by ajmcforester,
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