Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,641 topics in this forum
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With credit for this pic stolen from a post by "Clay C"... After his sandblasting we can clearly see the tan-colored seam sealer. But what, exactly, is this black stuff? Did Nissan use panel bond on the Z? I have also noticed seams on the forward surfaces of the rear inner wheel wells that have a "bead" of some material that looks like it oozed out from between the panels. It is hard (unlike seam sealer) and I've wondered if it was panel bond.
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Hey folks, I'm doing some work restoring the gas tank and have access to the area that would be blocked by the tank. The car was previously restored, and looks like they did an epoxy layer and then some rubberized undercoating. I want to do a few bits of minor repair and follow the same approach. I've been trying to see if I can match the rubberized undercoating but I'm not quite sure what was used. I don't think it's bed liner as it's not rock hard. I know it's a bit of a longshot, but figured I'd post a picture to see if anyone recognizes it. I thought it might have been 3m Schutz but after getting a closer look at how that lays down, I'm not sure it's that. I migh…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Title. Discovered some rust at the bottom of my drivers side quarter panel where it had rusted through and caused the paint to bubble, resulting in 3 nickel sized holes. Dogleg portion has a bubble of paint that flaked off to reveal what looks like surface only, but with rust who knows. Entire pinch weld looks sound, but there's what looks like powdery rust residue running along the seam of the pinch weld where it meets the rocker panel, nothing else visible so I have no idea how serious it is. Also battery tray has some surface rust that I've hit with inhibitor and taken a screw driver to, metal seems sound, but would need addressed. The rest of the car *looks* okay…
Last reply by DatsunZGuy, -
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So I've never really messed with the window regulator mechanisms, and I've got a 240 with windows that don't go up or down properly, I'm confident that I can just start taking stuff apart until it all just collapses and I can fish the parts out of the door shells, but I'm wondering if there is a more intelligent way to go about it. Can I take the regulators out of the doors and leave the glass in there? Or should I disconnect the glass from the regulators while everything is still in the doors and pull the glass out first? I know many of you guys have been through this before, and I don't need to experiment here. You guys know the best process.
Last reply by Av8ferg, -
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I am trying to wrap up the metalwork on the sills and doglegs and have re-hung the fenders and doors to work the gaps and get it all (near) perfect. But the doors are empty and if I press down the rear top of the door, it bows down (like you would expect a small tinny door to do). So I feel sure that after paint, when the doors later get populated with glass, mechanisms, door cards, etc, the door will sag out of their pre-aligned position. So how do y'all deal with this? I'm thinking that I could hang a dummy weight on the inside of the door to simulate the downward moment of the uninstalled components. But how much weight, and how far forward of the hinges? …
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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I just received these prop clamps from ebay. item # is 185685464615 and they are perfect fit and very tight for my datsun 260z. I had the one from msa and it was loose. these clamps fit very tight and need to be snaped in. the prop rod no longer wriggles. I am just letting the forum know if anybody need them . kully
Last reply by kully 560, -
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I wanted to put in one place, a reference topic to those who are struggling with slamming doors with new rubber weather-strip, whatever your source for that material. Mark Tanker, @wheee! here, posted an excellent few posts in his build thread that showed how to simply create the often missing rubber parts in our 70-76 door latches that will quickly solve the slamming. Find it here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=294#elControls_656753_menu Steve Nixon (hope I spelled that right) has a commercial product that reproduces ALL of the 5 rubber parts that are in a latch mechanism. https://www.240…
Last reply by zKars, -
Black out areas 1 2
by Patcon- 3 followers
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So I know there were a number of areas that the factory applied black paint to improve the look or finish. Where are all of these areas? What is the extent of the application? What finish was the paint? Flat, semi or gloss? These are some of the areas that I can remember Some of this area behind the qtr glass Some portion of this edge on the window Behind the speaker holes Some portion of the front radiator support I also believe there was some down near the foot well or the kick panel??
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 2 followers
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- 516 views
Hey gang, So there has been this squeak towards the back recently and it's been driving me nuts. I found out its the rubber alignment bumper on the side rubbing on the side of the hatch meaning the hatch is misaligned left to right. Is there any way to fix this? Pictures so the left and right - you'll notice the gap between the hatch and body is different on each side with the third picture being the paint rubbed off by the side bumper.
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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Just getting around with my z to get the bodywork done. The valence that was on the on the car was replaced (old setup ran 225/50r16 with no rub, but was clearly tin snips cut at some point to clear), and now I suffer some tire rub while turning. Running a 205/55r16. Beyond new wheels, or a new air dam instead of valence, anyone had any luck with anything?
Last reply by caltanian, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 153 views
You know what we really need? New sprayer nozzles. Mine are mostly shot, and I hate them. Too bad there isn't a better nozzle out there.
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 679 views
I went to the autobody supply store to day to pick up everything I need and the paint guy couldn't find a modern code for 920 Safari Gold, I have had them mix a few different Datsun colours over the years but he couldn't locate this one. Does anyone have a modern PPG or Dupont code for 920 Safari Gold? I could take one of the smaller panels down to them so they could scan it but the car has had a respray and is a different shade and the original paint looks like it has dulled down over the years. Thanks
Last reply by bpilati,
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Richie G
