Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I have removed my intake/carb assembly and would like to rebuild the carbs. I had to remove one of the float bowls in order to access one of the manifold nuts and discovered that all of the carb gaskets are brittle and junk. The carbs seem to run fine the last time I started the car, so I don't think I need to replace all of the internal parts; needles, nozzles, ect. (not to mention I am not familar enough with these parts to just order a kit to replace them if it is not necessary.) However I do feel like the gasket replacement is strightforward enough for me to try. I have a question regarding the kits that are available. Z Therepy has a comprehensive kit availa…
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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Howdy, Just getting started with restoring 72 240 with 51k original mi. Lots of things to do, but getting it running is first on the list. It sat for about a year. I replaced points, plugs, condensor, rotor, cap, wires, added fresh fuel, sea-foam ( I swear by this stuff!) and to date have gotten one near miss out of the engine. Cleaned the carbs, and referred to the Chiltons which tells me that the carbs need 20W oil in the damper/plunger. I have tried NAPA, and a host of other parts "chain stores" and none of them have 20W any more. Where can you get 20W? Would 5W-20 suffice? also, any tips, pointers both verbal and electronic to areas regarding carb synchronization …
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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Hi all, I'm still dealing with a high rpm issue, but I'll leave that to another thread. What I would like to know is the float level for 1972 carbs; I hear that they are not the same front and rear. I believe the typical level ('70 and '71) is 23 mm measured from the bottom of the lid to the fuel level with the floats in the fuel bowl. Measuring from bottom of lid to fuel level (using clear plastic hose from fuel drain and aligning it up against side of bowl.) I can get a level of 1 inch (25.4 mm) pretty easily for both carbs. Is this close enough? I'm getting pretty good with the whole procedure, but it's still fairly time consuming. Unfortunately, so far, all my…
Last reply by David F, -
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Okay so my 1973 240z (all smog gear removed) wont go above 60mph in 3rd or 4th gear, kind of hits a wall. Pulls strongly through RPM range in 1st and 2nd up too 5000 rpm (didn't try any higher), change to third and all acceleration ends. Doesn't seem to be hunting for extra fuel, just stays where it is. I've checked my timing (with a strobe) it's set at 10 degrees @ 800rpm.I've tried advancing/retarding it with no improvement. I've got a new petronix ignitor (had one before replaced it as test) with new 3 ohm flamethrower coil (no ballast resistor). Just put in new NGK sparkplugs, re-checked SU float levels are correct, made sure damper oil is in dashpots, and that piston…
Last reply by a7dz, -
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Yesterday I removed the insulation from the fuel rail and lines that was installed in about 1975. As others have noted, this appears to be made of asbestos so caution needs to be taken when working with it. Underneath the old insulation I found that much of the flexible fuel line was original to the car. Does anyone know of a source for replacement fuel line that looks like the original? It has a black braided fabric cover over rubber. I've searched all day and all I can find that is braided is metal. Thanks. Peter
Last reply by zcarnut, -
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Are there any basic settings for the different adjustment screws? Was wondering.. since I have them of now for cleaning Bart
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Hi Folks, I am almost to the point where I can focus my attention to my carburetors. Been doing some surfing around this and the ZTherapy site because I'm leaning towards rebuilding them myself with Ztherapy's kit/video. I haven't seen any downside to doing busness with them but I haven't talked to them yet either. On their website they mention the "rare" 3 screw carbs with a float bowl drain plug". I think this is what I have although the PO told me they came from a 72. (he also told me there was no rust ) Can anyone clarify this for me? What do I have here and are there any issues rebuilding these? Thanks Mike
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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OK This is the definitive SU float level tool: $70 on ebay now.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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My #1 carb is getting wayyy too much gas. I have posted the following video to demonstrate what it is doing: SU Carb - YouTube The #2 carb seems to be getting the right amount of fuel. I mean I don't see it flowing out like a geyser like the #1 carb is. I initially thought that the regulator was bad (i have an aftermarket electric pump), however since the #2 seems to be working right, I'm thinking something may be wrong with the #1 carb. Hope someone has some answers. Thanks.
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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I purchased and watched the ZT DVD Friday evening. That DVD is very informative and thorough. I felt very confident disassembling my carbs and getting them up to spec. The float bowls were very dirty and the floats tabs had the floats sitting at the very top of the cover (no wonder this car was barely running). I had them completely cleaned, adjusted and running in about two hours. I followed the sync instructions which is the same procedure as I used 25 years ago. I also got the same result that I got 25 years ago; I found that the engine runs smoothest at an idle rpm of 1,000. I started with the mixture knobs set at 2-1/2 turns out and the high-speed balance screw on th…
Last reply by Gary in NJ, -
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Is there a good 12V to use for the electric choke that is already in the engine bay? Apparently I'm not supposed to use the 12V to the coil, so I'm out of ideas already. I'd appreciate any help!
Last reply by aochider, -
- 3 followers
- 12 replies
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Hi Friends I have mounted an electric fuel pump from Zcar Depot on my 240Z and would like to hear where you have take 12V from ? I hope it's possible to take it directly without any relay.
Last reply by Jarnved,
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