Wheels & Brakes
Discussions about different wheel & tire combinations and the affects on a Zcar.
2,054 topics in this forum
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Looking for center caps for my slotted alloy wheels that came with the car when purchased. I’ve seen a lot of talk and ones listed as 240/280z on line, but found these are typically too small. The center cap hole on mine are greater than 3” and seem unique to my 1973 240z.
Last reply by Batesgar, -
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- 2 followers
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- 513 views
That's really it. Looking at an inexpensive set of wheels to add to my collection. Will a wheel and tire combination of this size fit? Thanks!
Last reply by ZNate, -
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About to do a brake bleed - pedal is getting a bit spongy. But I notice that bleed screws on rear drums (1971, April '71) are at the bottom of the assembly. Why is that? Air in fluid rises does it not? Can't remember ever bleeding from the bottom, in any vehicle. Is there are particular technique for bleeding from the bottom? Love to hear what folks have to say.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Who is the go to for rebuild? seems like a lot of "conversions" available that I'm not really interested in. Would like to have my original rebuilt vs exchange. Thanks in advance
Last reply by SJZ, -
- 1 follower
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Folks! I’m in the process of evaluating whether to upgrade the 15/16” master cylinder with the 10” boost master from 280zx 1979. I tried to bench bleed the master cylinder and observed the below behavior. notice, I didn’t mount the reservoirs on yet. fill up the cups and it’s very slowly draw in the fluid into the bore and out the F and R outlets. I tried to tap on the side to see any bubble coming out. Very little. I even try to pump the cylinder and seem like just air coming out. Fill up the cups and left overnight, the F seem to be able to drain completely. do I need to mount the reservoirs to help with the gravity to pull in more fluid…
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
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Hello everyone! I have determined that my brake booster has finally given up; it holds a vacuum but loses it as soon as you depress the pedal even a milometer. (I've already replaced the one-way valve.) I looked over the forums here, and it sounds like rebuilding one is tricky and can have very mixed results. The one I have is in fine shape (cosmetically), but there's no one around here who can reliably rebuild it (assuming kits are available). MSA does sell a refurbished brake booster, and I've ordered pretty good parts from them in the past. In addition to a refurbished booster, they offer a 6" and 8" tandem master vac conversion. The links are here: …
Last reply by z boy mn, -
I am re-assembling my caliper parts after bead blasting, painting, getting hardware plated, etc. Looking at the factory shop manual, it says to not take them apart... to replace them as a unit. And it doesn't provide a torque spec for the "bridge bolts". If you don't take them apart, you won't get them clean. And that won't be good, because there is garbage and rust in the passageways after this many years: Bolts are M10 X 1.25 I believe. So, what is a range for torque values? Also, I am curious as to how to decipher these markings:
Last reply by inline6, -
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Has anyone put the SST in the trunk inflated? I tried putting air in it while on ground and that thing was bubbling up like crazy and i had to stop. I dont want to rely on a canister and i dont have one either. The only spec which fit the tire well at the back is 195/40/R14 and that tire done exist ... Sorry yes i am trying to put an always inflated tire on this rim and also making sure it actually fit in the trunk. Anything bigger than 20in diameter with tire on wont fit in the space provide, thats why i quoted 195/40R14
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
Hot brakes 1 2
by bluez- 5 followers
- 22 replies
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Hi guys, Seem to be having an issue with brakes getting too hot, on my 12/70 Z. This occurs when barely using them. The front rotors get very hot, so much that the wheel hub is almost to hot to touch. While the rear drums get a bit warm. This happens after a short drive, 10-15 miles. Car will easily roll without resistance. I have the early style original Tokico m/c (recently installed) and Nabco differential brake switch. Car previously had a Sanyco m/c, which I swapped out for the original. So is it normal for brakes to be hot, when not using them?
Last reply by bluez, -
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- 4 replies
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I am looking to replace stock wheels/tires with this specs. I am not planning to put any extra fenders. Anyone with this kind of setup and can share the specs with me? So share your cars pictures...
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
- 2 followers
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Friends, I am thinking 16x8 with a negative offset without using any flares as I dont want too much modification to stock body. Can you guys share your pics with specs please?
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
- 1 follower
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Hey guys, can anyone recommend a good reputable caliper rebuild service? Mine is 77 auto.
Last reply by heyitsrama,
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