Heat & AC
126 topics in this forum
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- 4 followers
- 9 replies
- 550 views
I'm at the point I need to pull the heater box out so I can finish my interior work and figured while I'm at it will rebuild it and replace the valve / hoses. I've found a fantastic thread on here for the restoral steps and gasket templates but still have some newbie questions to go along with it. Before disconnecting anything I'm assuming a smart first step would be to drain the coolant to avoid a mess (and check the quality of the fluid / refresh it in the radiator). First question is around that process / how far I need to go. Is it necessary to drain the radiator and the engine block both and how much should I expect to collect from each? Assuming both, once…
Last reply by Zpenman, -
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- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 305 views
So, I'm looking for some suggestions (and possible a part suggestion) for my recently completed 73 240z restoration. During the restoration I install an A/C system. With the idle adjusted to about 750 rpms the engine bogs down to near stall speed whenever you stop and the A/C is running. This problem goes away if I increase the idle to about 1000 rpms, but then it's way too high when stopping and the A/C off. What I'd like to do install a small push solenoid that activates when the A/C is on, allowing the idle to run at the higher rpms only when the A/C is on. It needs to be a solenoid that can handle being energized for long periods of time and not one designed for m…
Last reply by z3beemer, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 202 views
I see a few posts regarding fixing the original heater control valves. Unfortunately I don't have that option anymore but has anyone tried the electronic heater control valves? I see two options, a bypass version and a standard version but I don't know which route to go if anyone would be better for the engine. Considering the strong feelings about blocking off the coolant lines whenever someone deletes the heater core. The standard version would just prevent the flow when set to cold (similar to OEM) vs the bypass version is supposed to route the coolant back when set to cold. https://autoacsolutions.com/products/heater-control-valves/electronic-bypass-he…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 followers
- 15 replies
- 775 views
Almost done installing Vintage in my Z car. QZ16 has a good thread and it helped with some of my install. I had to use a bulkhead fitting because we had that side of firewall repaired due to a boom box or large speakers. A lot of holes, I also decide on using hardlines instead of rubber hoses. I like the look and less room. I installed the Vintage air controls into the original heat vent con
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 461 views
Hey guys, Just figured out how to rebuild the vacuum water valve on a 280z without having to send it off somewhere to be restored or buy a stupid expensive one online (If you can find it. I couldn't). This one is off a 1977 280z. The valve in question is the valve that is actuated when the climate control is put into the heat position and vacuum is sent to open the valve to allow coolant to flow to the mechanically operated coolant valve (That one is operated by the temperature setting). Anyways, mine was leaking super bad like a faucet. I did some research and came across this youtube video. Not sure why its age restricted. Here is the valv…
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
- 6 followers
- 16 replies
- 891 views
Good afternoon! since getting the Z road worthy this past spring, I’ve debated installing A/C in the car since, well, because Texas. My father removed all the components from under the hood, and the remaining original HVAC components are located under the dash. He didn’t take global warming into account in the 90s. I’m looking through the FSM right now, but I’m debating weather to replace the under hood components from Motorsport auto or go with vintage air. 1. What considerations do I need to go over, and what steps should I follow through? 2. what advantages does Vintage Air have over replacing the stock components. thanks i…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 2 followers
- 0 replies
- 294 views
Hey guys, this was my take at restoring my old climate control box. Hopefully it helps someone in the future in case they didn't take good photos:) This is on a 77 280z. I am not sure if all years are the same. My module was really sticky, which was presumably caused by rust and lack of lubrication, so I went the extra mile and redid everything so as to never have to touch this box again. Here is the start take note that I swept every lever to the left so that everything is in sync. The module is upside down. Next is a close up photo of the Hot/Cold switch. It is held on by a pressure washer and snap ring. There is a black mechanism with a spring and …
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 725 views
hey guys, my 1977 Z is under the knife again, this time for a complete interior restoration. Currently I am doing a full rebuild of the HVAC unit inside the dash down to the bolt. (AC box, heater box, climate control module, etc). I have everything apart and have a plan for pretty much everything except the heater core/vacuum water **** and the temperature control water ****( apologies if this is not those valves actual names). As you can see my vacuum water valve was leaking bad (I actually previously capped off the heater core from the engine bay due to this) and everything just looks old and corroded, and shouldn't be left unadressed. Anyways it is…
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
Heater valve 1 2
by Patcon- 4 followers
- 20 replies
- 950 views
So I am messing around with heater boxes right now and I was pressure testing two heater valves I had. I cobbled together some hoses to attach my coolant tester to. One valve did ok, although it leaks slightly around the push rod when it's being actuated. The other leaks badly as the junction of the brass body to the steel bracketry. So in the best Captain Obvious manner, I decided to take it apart! Folded the ears back and removed the bracketry The internals just pull out after that There is a square O ring seal between the hard plastic end and an inner washer. I think if it were replaced the valve would seal up. I'…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 4 followers
- 11 replies
- 1k views
I have a new vintage air system in my car from ZCD. Looks awesome but its not spitting out cool air, it was around 79ish Fareinheit. I had this professional done by a "Z expert" but he is hours away from where i live. I used a $20 R134a can with gauge to test pressure. It says on it pressure should be between 30-50 psi. i was at about 120psi. I evacuated it down to normal range. when i started doing this it was spitting out a lot of yellow fluid and pressure but when i got it down to around 50ish psi nothing but room temp air was coming out. I am wondering if i should remove everything and start over getting it around 45psi? Any thoughts
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 2 followers
- 0 replies
- 490 views
If anyone is looking for the stock expansion valve o-rings which are NLA, for the outside sealing ring use a 1-1/2”id x 1-11/16”od x 3/32”cs also known as AS568-128 HNBR. The inside ring is 1-1/2”id x 1-5/8”od x 1/16”cs also known as AS568-029 HNBR. I purchased mine at www.Theoringstore.com . It took a few tries. Hope this helps somebody.
Last reply by Chickenwing, -
- 5 followers
- 45 replies
- 2.4k views
Greeting folks Not sure if this belong to Heat & AC or Engine & powertrain ... Here goes My radiator was serviced couple of months ago due to some minor leak at the top of the radiator. The shop need to open up the entire top cover of the radiator to do a fix... They recommended to flush, and remove all of the build up over the year. The fee for the job is about the same if I were to buy the new aluminum 3 rows radiator. However, I like the stock looking and it also 3 rows radiator, so I agree with the job. This is couple of months back before the summer. All seem to be working well. Recently, I notice the fan clutch engaged too fre…
Last reply by 240zadmire,
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