Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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O.K., I ran my own comression test on my 1977 280Z L28 with a N42 Block and N47 head with clogged #6 FI Port. Engine was at operating temperature and my compression came up as this. Is this good or bad? Clyinder/ PSI 1- 150psi 2- 150 3- 150 4- 189 5- 152 6- 150 With teaspoon of oil. Clyinder/ PSI 1- 190psi 2- 180 3- 180 4- 170 5- 180 6- 180 ~Z~
Last reply by WingZr0, -
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So, as I'm about to install my Ztherapy carbs on my 260Z in place of the original crap-tops, I find myself in a predicament. I expect a pretty noticeable performance and driveability increase. As you all know, the satisfaction of new modifications wears off after a short time which leaves you wanting more. Now, I fully intend on swapping an 8 of some kind in this car eventually, but I'd like to kick up the 6 in the meantime. I'd venture to guess that the next step would be a header and new exhaust. That's a fairly inexpensive project that kind of needs to be done anyway, considering my piping is fairly rusty. No leaks yet, though. Now, with this project, I want to repla…
Last reply by g9m3c, -
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Getting my car dialed in to perfection. All my plugs are tanish except no 6 it looks new. It is firing verified spark. I dont get why it would look new. Compression is fine. 4, 5 tanish 6 white electorde looks new with a slight discoloration. When i pulled the old plug out it was dark. Sooty. 4 5 where as well. I am wondering if i need to just up the mixture a tad. Does #6 run lean normally?
Last reply by WarrenZ, -
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Hi all, I could use a bit more advice, regarding the 160K mi original engine in the '78 I recently bought: I flushed my engine today (Gunk) and changed the oil. Then I opened up the valve cover to adjust the valve lash. I was rather surprised at what I found. Although the moving parts were more or less clean, the valve cover and top of the cylinder head looked like the inside of my smoker after a 16 hr round of smoking. There was a varnishy/gummy crust that averaged maybe 1mm thick, with much thicker build-ups in some areas. The Gunk took down some of it from the valve cover walls in sheets, in line with oil spray from the valve train. I scrubbed the remainder of it…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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Some of you may remember me, but I haven't posted here in quite a while. I bought a nice 260Z last November and have been working on it on and off since. It sat in my backyard perfectly still for almost 3 months, and I couldn't stand it. So.......I'm trying to fix the issues that kept it off of the road for that period of time. I ordered a set of Ztherapy round tops about a week and a half ago, and they will hopefully be here a little later in the week. In preperation for them, I am cleaning and detailing under the hood and will hopefully have it ready for them to simply bolt up once they get here. I am also working on building my own air cleaners for them because I did…
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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Hi all, I'm still working out the bugs in my "new" '78 as free time arises. Er... Maybe I'm working out all sorts of vermin, as I just replaced the air filter, in whose housing I found the remains of a family of mice, but that's another story. The engine runs very well, overall, but I'm still not quite there. I have new vacuum lines throughout. Timing is correct. Engine vacuum is very steady, but a couple/few PSI low. Then again, it also has 160K miles on it. I've been running B12 in the fuel to clean the injectors. My remaining problems are: 1. After I've left the car sitting for 2 or more days and then have started it, it hesitates on start-up, often with a v…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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i've miced my cylinders, and the bore on the whole block ranges from 3.3855" to 3.3895", with seemingly no pattern as to which diameter is where. i've never done this before, so please forgive me for asking: is this enough to determine whether i can use standard pistons or not? i'm going to scan the full list of readings and post it soon if more info is necessary. i've been finding some conflicting info about the L28 standard bore. my fsm says that standard is up to 86.050mm, but a piston source i'm looking to buy from says that their standard bore piston is 86.1mm in diameter. lastly, does anyone have any horror stories about black dragon pistons or ITM pistons, or shoul…
Last reply by Phred, -
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Hi, Gee, it's been a while since I've actually had to time an engine -- long enough for me to forget a thing or two. I just replaced my distributor, and therefore I need to do this. Here's what I did: Warmed up engine. Set idle to 800 RPM. Connected timing light. Set to 10 deg BTDC. Readjusted idle. Rechecked timing. Tightened set screw at base of distributor. Finished. As I was doing this, I noticed that there was quite an RPM drop between, say, 20 and 10 deg BTDC. The engine seemed to run smoothly, but that seemed quite an excessive drop -- perhaps a few hundred RPM. Moreover, my engine vacuum is a few pounds below where it should probably be. Stupid question…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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My 6/70 Z has a dented gas tank and I'm thinking of pulling it off and replacing it with a tank from a 8/72 parts care I have. I'm wondering if there are any differences between these two gas tanks. I've searched the forums and seen several posts regarding swapping a 280Z tank into a 240Z, but I was not able to find any significant information regarding the differences between 70, 71, 72 or 73 model years. My goal is to keep the 70 as close to stock as I can, but before I make the swap, so I'm hoping there aren't significant differences between the tanks. Does anyone have any information? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by DMC-Z, -
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Hi all I recently won a series of R200 parts from Blake on eBay including mustache bar, the L-shaped rear sway bar mounts, a new diff strap + bolts. However I am missing the lower bracket to swap my R200 into my 73 240Z. Does any one have one for sale? I am referring to the lower curved one that goes around the rear bottom of the diff cover. I think I have everything else I need for the swap... Anyone? Thanks in advance, -e
Last reply by EricB, -
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ever since i bought my car i have had the same problem where if i tried going up too steep a hill or go too fast (anything above 60) the engine would start to cut out like it wasn't getting enough gas. i put a "new" set of carbs on it and checked out the filters and all seemed to be ok but the problem never stayed away long. Finally my father clamped off the return line to the front filter and for some reason it seems to be working. is there something that could be missing from the system because i know the car had been messed with by its previous owner and we could be missing something obvious.
Last reply by samzhot240, -
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Hey everyone, have a little problem here. I seem to be getting extremely weak spark on cylinders 4 and 5. Every other cylinder seems to be great. The plugs are absolutely soaked with gas on those 2 cylinders. I put my inductive light on the wires and checked to see if i would get any readings close the the dist. cap and i did. but as i follow the wire down it gets weak and randomly fires. I replaced plugs, wires, dist cap, and rotor. Coil is also fairly new. I had a spare set of plug wires and tried messing with them, but no luck. any tips or ideas would be great. thanks.
Last reply by ezzzzzzz,
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davewormald
