Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,551 topics in this forum
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- 10 replies
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Has anybody found a source for .160in lash pads? Seems that they are rare as hens teeth. I am at the point of having the stock pad valve stem indent welded up and ground to spec.:disappoin
Last reply by Dobber, -
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I had my 76 280 2+2 4 speed manual sitting for a few weeks and went out to take her for a spin today and cannot shift into a gear with the engine started. They just grind instead of going directly in. If I turn the car off I can put it into a gear and get it into first, but cannot shift into second. Anyone have any idea what it could be? Clutch or transmission?
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
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Hi, I have a stock 1978 280z that is in pretty good shape (pretty much all original as far as I can tell- no engine nor drivetrain mods). In the last week the engine is been dying frequently when I engage the reverse gear. If I try to start with the clutch in but the lever in reverse, the engine will attempt to start but it will not keep the engine running; only when I put it in neutral or in a forward gear. Could this be related to either the reverse switch or a clutch switch (that closes the ignition circuit? I'll appreciate any tips/leads to troubleshoot this puzzling thing. Thanks. Raul.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hello All, I am trying to refreash my 1972 240Z. I had the engine rebuilt by a machine shop and finally got it back home and in the car. After putting everything else back on I tried to start it. It took me about 3 weeks to figure out that the distributer was on backwards. Now I know that you cannot put the Z car Dist on backwards because the shaft has an offset key. But when all else was correct the only thing left was that the rotor was pointing aft when the No 1 piston was at TDC. I moved all the spark plug wires to opposite points and the engine fired up. Now the problem is that I have a distributor that is "backwards" but the real problem is that I ran the e…
Last reply by Harry Walker, -
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Hello! Quick question for you guys with the GPS Speedometers. I bought a GPS speedometer from speedhut and I am currently installing all of my new gauges. Since the GPS speedo doesnt need the speedometer cable, what do I do with it? I would just remove the cable, but what would I use to plug up the transmission? Please let me know what my options are or what you guys have done to solve this minor issue. Thanks in advance!
Last reply by ktm, -
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My 78 280Z exhibits some bucking but only below a half a tank of gas. I has been explained to me that the fuel pipe in the tank may have a hole in it and when the fuel gets low it starts sucking air & fuel. I fill the car up & it runs fine. The gas tank has been redone, fuel filter cleaned etc. The only way to fix is to pull the tube and basket by drilling another hole in the tank. The fuel tank seems to be a weak point on these cars especially when the car isn't driven much and allowed to sit. I have been told to keep the tank full when storing. Are there no plastic Z fuel tank reproductions? I gotta believe they wouldn't be that costly to make and there is a mar…
Last reply by Fire604, -
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As you will find out, I am not afraid to ask questions if it assists me in getting closer to hearing my Z turn over for the first time. Some of you may have read in another section that I drained the coolant yesterday, flushed the radiator, and refilled with new. Not until I had put the new coolant in did I realize there was a hose or two that were leaking coolant straight out. Wish I would have plugged the system back up and filled with water to check for leaks, but aren't we all smarter looking back. Whether it be due to dry rotting, or whatever I do not care...I am just unsure what hoses I need to purchase. I have searched and found nothing so far. Here are pictu…
Last reply by Bojanglez280, -
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Have a '78 280z, all stock. The issue is this, when sitting still , I can rev the car to 3-4k with no issues or unusual sounds. However, when driving under load, if the RPM gets over about 3200 during acceleration, I get what sounds like either detonation or some type of valvetrain noise. It's very loud, and I am afraid to rev beyond this limit for fear of damage. Setting valve lash does no good, and it seems to have very little to do with timing, as I can increase or decrease timing with basically no effect. I am open to suggestions as to what it may be. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Last reply by travlnman, -
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do i need a higher octane fuel with this combo, or would it only be needed with n42 head about to buy parts need to know perth australia pistons new from 4cyn nissian pintara u.s.a. ? block L28 bore +30tho rings +60 tho my teck man in oz says it may ping or detonate without advanced timing and higher octane gas down under oz
Last reply by ozconnection, -
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I'm buying a 1976 2+2 (California) next week. The seller says it has the original engine and trany. How can I verify if it really does (eg, how can you determine matching numbers on these cars). It has a 5 sp trany which I didn't think was available in 1976 models. If it turns out not to be the original trany, how can I determine if it came from a 1977 or 1978 or later ZX (I believe there was a difference in some of the gear ratios)? Thanks Gary
Last reply by Healeyalt, -
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Just for kicks I ordered a set of NGK factory replacement wires from rockauto. Well they claim they are factory replacement. I wanted to see just how good/bad the current taylor pro wires I had on the car are. Well this was eye opening. I took off the number 1 spark plug and measured the resistance through the wire. THese are the results The 9 year old Taylor 8mm wires measured 0.788 kOhms The brand new NGK wires measured 5.65 kOhms The fact that the old taylors were 6 times less resistive was amazing. Never thought that would be the case... So I now have a spare set of wires if I ever need them. What I wonder now is if the car would run any different at all with the …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Ok so I'm having a couple of issues with my clutch. First of all, the car hasn't been put into gear with the car on for 15 years. Up until today I had no petal, no resistance. Then, today I drained all of the old fluid, replaced the master and bled the system. As of right now the petal goes about halfway in (due to free play where the pushrod connects to the top of the petal which is one issue) and then at the halfway point will not go any farther. It is rock solid. I was forcing it down to the floor but later discovered it was the petal bending that made it go all the way down and that the pushrod doesn't move. Has anyone else encountered this or am I just missing…
Last reply by austinnelson117,
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