Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,434 topics in this forum
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I hope to make this a Sticky (Mike!!) I want to Document every S30 style combo and Turn Signal Switch. I need every one to see what is already posted and add to this Thread if you don't see your style of switches. With any luck, anyone can pick up a switch out of a box of parts and be able to cross reference it here and know exactly what they have. I am now in possesion of over 80+ switches that I would like to start rebuilding for people and customers. Only problem is that there are so many styles that I am not totally sure of what is what. So PLEASE remove 4 screws from the steering column cover, take off the top and bottom covers and......... Take a picture of....…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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- 19 followers
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I took the plunge and purchased LEDs to replace the exterior lights, except for the plate lights. So far I replaced all but the lights under the bumper. I'll probably get to those this weekend. I did check the current flow with the LEDs, and it is now 2.6A. I didn't measure the current before the switch, but I estimated it to be approximately 7.9A. (For the record, I was expecting about 2.9A at this point of changing out the lights.) I purchased all of the bulbs from Superbright LEDs. Here is what I selected for my 260Z Front side markers - 67-A9 Rear side markers - 67-R9 Rear stop/tail 1157-R12 Rear turn 1156-R12 Rear tail 67-R9 Front turn 1157-A12 Reverse lights 67-W9 L…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hi all, My fusible links are in horrible shape -- rotted, corroded, yet still conducting for the time being. Yeah, I know, replace them. One of my fusible link assemblies has a broken base and is just dangling on the ends of the wires. Both covers are rotted. The only replacement items I'm finding are the covers. I'm sure I can find the wires too. perhaps a base at a junk yard. Even so, I wonder whether I shouldn't just replace the whole mess with something more practical. I'm thinking of installing breakers like this: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d29.html ... or perhaps a very heavy duty fuse holder. How do I find the amperage ratings on the fusible…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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So for the past couple of weeks I have been working on a wiring diagram whenever I have been bored or drunk. So here is the nearly final diagram that I will be putting in my car. larger version http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4439513011_17611f45c7_o.jpg the point was to start new when i install the new dash, get rid of everything possible and use switches, replace glass tubes with and bladed fuses/breakers; since i have yet to find a diagram that does that i decided to make one and share. a couple notes on the components. -designed to work for a 240z, but really anything is possible with this -all gauges are to be assumed autometer unless i find a better/che…
Last reply by crazyoctopus, -
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Most Internet tutorials show schematics where the relay for fog lamps or headlamps is activated by a switch that's connected to a switched 12V power source. You could also just bridge the 12V source to Pins 87 ( the relay contacts) and 30 (the coil) and go from pin 30 to ground with a switch in the cabin. The latter switched-ground method uses one less connection to the battery. But for the convenience of turning the lights off when you turn off the keyswitch or engine, you need another hot wire. My question would be, "where do you get the switched power from?" You could tap into the radio or heater power wires, but those two things use a good bit of power, an…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Back in 2014 I purchased a set of fusible links from my local Nissan dealer. They sourced the parts from Coutesy Nissan. Wayne is buzy with an update of his electrical diagram and this was a point of discussion. Im not sure if they changed the colors, but the set I received is: 1x Black p/n: 24161-A0100 (YAZAKIFLWX-1.25) 1x Green p/n: 24161-28500 (YAZAKIFLWX-0.5) 2x Brown p/n: 24161-Y0100 (FTX-0.3) In (brackets) are codes on the link insulation. The brown have a different number compared to the manual,. They are brown instead of the original red. That could explain the different part number. Refering to the parts manual en Waynes color…
Last reply by DHA280Z, -
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Just wondering any thoughts at all... I will need to get some new spark plug wires soon, and was wondering thoughts on which size I should get--I'm looking at about $15 difference between all 3 sizes of wires from where I'm looking, so price doesn't matter. I have a 72 240, original motor...in the spring I'm going with a 81 ZX Dist and a good output coil, so I have a real good spark--this is a weak area on my motor--as I foul my spark plugs due to weak rings. Trying to squeeze a little more time out of her. Anyways, my car is nothing special on performance...my only hop-up part is a stock replacement K+N air filter. No header or cam...when I rebuild probably get that s…
Last reply by 240ZMan, -
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So while digging through my box of parts that the previous owner provided me, I ran across a brand new alternator, which ended up being a 280ZX internally regulated 60amp model. After upgrading to the Pertronix electronic ignition last year, I began to hear that the 240z's voltage regulator and 40amp alternator might not be powerful enough, so I investigated upgrading. All it cost me was the price of a diode ($2 @ Radioshack) as I had all of the other parts already. After removing the voltage regulator I found out why its recommended to go with an internally regulated alternator -- look at how the backing plate has melted! In order to eliminate the external voltag…
Last reply by joeybricks, -
- 15 followers
- 180 replies
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I posted this in someone elses thread, but decided to start a new one here. It may be useful for other members having problems with the TIU. These systems are getting old and starting to fail more often than not. A couple of months ago I had problems with water in the fuel system. After cleaning it all out, draining the tank replacing the fuel filter the engine ran normal again. When I took it for a drive I was lucky to limp back home with the engine coughing and backfiring. Went through the EFI bible test and found some poor soldering joints on the aftermarket injector connectors and some minor things. It still would not run right once it warmed up. It was great cold, b…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 3 followers
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More specifically, for the 1977 model. I know of a few differences between the 75-76 models and also the '78 model. Take a look in the download section... The 'blurry' print is just a product of AutoCad printing to Adobe. When printed on paper, the true font and line weight come out as intended. To print, use the 'print current view' option in adobe and 'pan' across until you print the whole thing. I wouldn't suggest trying to scale down too much, but will tell you it looks beautiful hanging on my garage wall. Special thanks goes out to Mike for hosting this for me! Wayne <edit = now in download section>
Last reply by wal280z, -
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Lately there have been several threads that all seem to be discussing timing advance problems related to the E12-80 electronic distributor conversion on older engines. For example: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34031&highlight=E12-80 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34073&highlight=E12-80 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34126&highlight=E12-80 In at least one of them I ask if there was any way to know which distributors might be good candidates, and which ones to avoid, but never really got an answer. So I took it upon myself to download the factory service manuals for all five yea…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 26 replies
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Well I am about tired of the crappy lights on my Z, and I am desperately wanting to update them. My cars alternator is completely stock as is all my wiring. I would like to upgrade, but was wondering what is the best choice, for a stock wired 240Z I know Zsonthebrain sells that fabulous wiring harness, and thats a good option. But is there an improvement possible without it?
Last reply by FricFrac,
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