Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,200 topics in this forum
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Decided to rebuild the front and rear suspension on my 73 Z. Decided to splurge and buy the Koni Yellows, and Eibach progressive springs. Going mostly rubber bushings instead of poly since it's mainly for pleasure driving. Going to tackle the front first. I wasn't planning on dropping the subframe, but couldn't remove the lower control arm bolts without hitting the rack. Made a couple metal bars and used the anti-sway bar bracket bolt holes to support a piece of wood, which held the engine up resting on the oil pump. Easier than dragging out my engine lift. Sand blasted the subframe and repainted. I used poly bushings for the rack mounts. …
Last reply by KenFirch, -
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I hate to start a new thread over something so (seemingly) trivial, but I've search all over and cannot find anything. I'm replacing most/all of the bushings in my 280z. Some I'm doing urethane, some I'm retaining rubber. It's a street car and I don't want it to be unbearable. Anyway, I cannot find a rubber transmission crossmember bushing anywhere. Only polyurethane - and this is one area I definitely want to avoid urethane. Any help is appreciated.
Last reply by adivin, -
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Does anyone know if Nissan designed the 240Z to have a setback (stagger) of the front wheels? I vaguely remember reading an article many years ago that it did but I have never seen a specification. Some background for why I am asking this question. This past winter I removed the lowering springs on my 1973 240Z and installed stock Nissan OEM springs along with new Koni shocks and stock bushings. After doing this I took it to my local alignment shop (with whom I've been dealing with since I bought the car new in 1973) and they set the toe-in and gave me the printout from the alignment machine. The printout showed the left side having less caster (2.41 degrees) than th…
Last reply by jpc3006, -
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So my Datsun 280z has a pretty bad shake at the steering wheel above 35mph, I've narrowed it down to the inner and outer tie rods as they are the only suspension components I have not changed yet plus my right outer tie rod has visible play. My car has polyurethane bushings all around and TTT suspension from lower control arms and what not. My question is, is there any noticeable steering feel difference between the Moog outer tie rod and the TTT outer tie rod? I know they use different bushings obviously, is that enough for a difference in feel or is the difference so minimal that its not worth the extra money? I do drive my car spiritedly in the Canyons and occasio…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I have replaced all bushings and struts and the diff mount. This job is too hard to not get it right so... I have read the FSM and all the posts I could find but am still not sure of the correct procedure to tighten the bolts for the transverse link brackets. Should I torque the vertical bolts to spec or just snug before putting the wheels on the ground. Also does the car need to be level when I torque the horizontal bolts. I need to put ramps under the rear wheels to gain access for the final tightening. I hope this post makes sense. Thanks for any and all advise. JB
Last reply by JTO, -
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Does anyone know the difference in the front differential mount for the prior to July 71 and after July 71? Is R200 different from R180?
Last reply by Trnelson, -
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I am replacing the bushings/shocks/springs on my 12/70 car with Prothane, Eibachs and Koni yellows. Since I had a 2/71 parts car, I thought it might be easier to just prep that suspension and replace that of the 12/70 with refurbished parts (plug and play!). As I go, I will replace the ball joints and steering rack. I plan on sandblasting the old suspension and either powdercoating, painting, or using KBS rust sealer. For those that have done it, what method did you use and were you happy with the results? Any tips for someone who has not done this before?
Last reply by KenFirch, -
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I'm in the process of installing new Koni Yellows, Eibach progressive springs (23-4041) from MSA, and the rubber suspension kit from Car Source on my 73 Z. Since the car will hopefully be about 1 ½" lower, I'm thinking I should add some bump stops, and don't want the hard poly ones (going for an old folks ride 😉). MSA only sells the hard ones. I've seen other threads of soft bump stop talk, but no specific part numbers used. I called about the FatCat ones, but they mostly offer Miata advice. Heard others use the Koni stops, but which one? Koni strut shaft is .856" (21.74 mm), so I'm thinking the Koni 70.34.95.00 one is the one used, right? It's over 2" long, should …
Last reply by KenFirch, -
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I'm looking for a R&P rebuilding or exchange service. I'm burned out from my transmission rebuild to do it myself. Can anyone offer a suggestion?
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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I have a 6/70 that I am restoring. The sway bar brackets that bolt to the bottom of the frame rails and hold the sway bar bushings seem to be the exact shape as my 5/71 in every way. Except on my 6/70 they were never painted. They appear as if they were yellow zinc. My car has been sitting for a very long time so I dont think the suspension components have been modified. I like the look of properly zinc'd parts but I am not a big fan when it is over done. Has anyone ever seen these brackets zinc from the factory or have you only seen black?
Last reply by texasz, -
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I'm planning on rebuilding the rear of of the 73 this Winter. I'm trying to find replacement springs and struts for the rear to address some "sagging" in the rear end. It seems like the ones I can find from MSA, Courtesy and Black Dragon all lower the car about an inch. I don't want to drop the ride height at all. My question is, where can I find new, stock size springs?
Last reply by foosman, -
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I should know this but don't, is there a significant difference between the 240 and 280 steering racks? Or more to the point can a 240 steering rack be swapped into a 280 ? Thanks
Last reply by zKars,
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