All Activity

dzcg might be having seller's regret. 🤢 Everyone knows about ad blockers. They work. Good luck.

FWIW.. subscribing to a VPN like Surfshark or Nord, etc... eliminates at least 90% of the ads.

@Derek makes something similar. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119641-twin-cam-head-for-the-l6-from-derek-at-datsunworks/?do=findComment&comment=1249401

Thank you, Buddy.

He hasn't been around lately that I'm aware of but he may get an e-mail if I "tag" him @S30Driver Good luck!

A few dollars a month will eliminate the ads. Well worth it IMO.

There's one on FB marketplace in Indiana for $100 that looks to be in a little better shape in my opinion. It's out of a '77.

I'm pretty confident I can fill most the cracks... But one of the previous owners glued on a cover and there's a lot of rubber style glue everywhere

While this is newsworthy, it may not be available outside of Japan... or if it is, will have tariffs added to its already high $25000 dollar price (plus you need more parts to make it work). https://www.theautopian.com/nismos-old-school-hot-rodding-kit-for-its-straight-six-costs-more-than-some-whole-nissans/ https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/engine_parts/dohc_conversion_kit_l-series_inline-six_engine.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Es-4hnZH5Q&t https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFKIAe952dc

oh yeah.. As i'm getting fludded with commercials and other sh*t, i'm thinking of leaving this shi tty site.. sorry but i'm verry tired of all that commercials s h i t !!

Years ago i discovered that the plug under the fueltank.. is also NOT Metric. So don't try to put a metric in there.. If you have a old tank save those plugs as they are rare.

Is this vent still around? THX

I mentioned that somebody plugged holes in the 240z balance tube. I was able to run a 1/8-27 pipe tap into the holes, there was enough metal there to get some good threads. I then sealed the holes with 1/8" brass pipe plugs (which I made) and a turn of teflon tape. What's interesting is that I took off a fitting from a 160z flat top balance tube, a barb to male taper fitting. The threads on my 27tpi pipe tap were exactly the same pitch as the fitting from the 260z balance tube. So perhaps Nissan used different thread standards? On to the next problem, vacuum leak. Jim

Too dark, black really. I looked again of my pix of the Franklin Mint manifold above and the true, not light distorted, color is at the extreme ends.

Quite the contrast in colors This is a later manifold testing colors….same material as motorman7 with tubes in place… looks much darker with contrast…

Hi Bob: If you are still looking for a welder I would recommend Elhot Metal Fabrication. He is working inhouse at the Shop club on 6th Ave S. He has done rust repair on 3 of my cars over the last 20 years and he is top notch. Of course with 30 years of experience, he's not cheap. Cheers, Mark G

You are correct, I always has a very good pedal feel and then I did not. I think part of the issue is a bad check valve, and here is why I say that. I ran the check valve test with a vacuum gage installed down stream of the check valve in between the check valve and the brake booster. Warmed up the engine Let the vacuum gage settle down to about 45 mmHg or so (I think that was the number) Shut off the car and watched. The needle proceeded to drop and drop and drop and drop down to zero after about a minute or so. If memory serves last time I did this test, it held. So I ordered a new one. I will have to see if this helps or not. Either way, I suppose it is time to change it out as I installed that one back in 2009 according to my Z maintenance book I keep.

Update. It's been several months when I posted questions about a soft feeling brake pedal in my 79 zx. I checked the vacuun check valve and found it to be defective. I didn't even use my vacuum test equipment but instead just removed it and blew and sucked through it and knew it wasn't holding vacuum. I replaced it and now have very good, stock brakes again.

Yes, take it a lock smith. If the core can be removed from the cylinder it isn't that difficult to make a key. Key blanks are common. I can't recall if the core is wafers or pins. Come to think of it, it's a double cut key, so it would be a wafer lock. To remove the core from the cylinder without a key, not a big deal to pick the lock. I have no idea what a lock smith would charge, but it's not a big deal. When I closed my business I kept all the key blanks, I probably have what you need. Jim

This was a clue that it was an electrical problem. If the engine was still spinning because it was in gear then spark will still move the tachometer needle.

I think you may find @26th-Z and @Carl Beck already have most if not all of the documents. I've hoovered them up for my archive. Will be interesting to see what if goes for this time, I think it sold at least once or maybe twice since the last BAT appearance 6 years ago.

Bring a TrailerVintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a Vintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #220,101.Has been posted elsewhere on this site but I suggest that someone that is more tech than I am hoover Pierre's Restoration Document for this thread.

Any update. I suspect a gas tank from S30 World might be in my future along with Vapor Lines from Resurrected Classics.

New owner of a 72, first post here, and am having the same problem. I'm surprised everyone's focusing on ignition and not vapor lock? I'd owned two other 240Z's in the past and ran a Mallory Unilite in both and they were spot on. I'd be surprised if that's the cause here but I've been wrong before. Knowing what the issue here might help me as well so very curious about the solution.

I pulled the computer out and took it apart. It looks really good, so I put it back together and started on the ignition module replacement. I followed this diagram that I got from the knowledge base and tried it out, but no joy. I didnt see anything about needing to run it through the ballast resistor, so I left it out of the new circuit. Im not sure which side is + on the coil so I put the new green wire where the old one was. I found another post that had a resistance measurement for the pickup coil. Looks like its suppose to be around 720ohms. Ill check that next time im out. Im sure im missing something, but im was too tired to really use my brain. The module is bolted to the throttle body temporarily. And I broke out my new plug wires as well. Anyone have any suggestions?