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@Yarb

Shame you had to get rid of the 240z but glad to see the 280zx getting some more attention. I just ordered some parts from the US and will try to fix my 280z over the coming winter. I will definitely come visit you this spring with my 280z!

I don't think you or anyone in the States would have given me óver 20 grand for a car that needs a lot of attention though?? (It did drive home to the new owner) and, i also sold some nice parts as a new hood/bonnet and some rally seats! That was another few $$$$ Maybe my 300zxtt would be a good car to put on BaT? I ask myself is it even possible/worth the effort to do this as i'm in europe.. I thought that most cars on BaT are in the USA?

You can also buy Datsun Z blank keys on Ebay.

If you can get down to the tumbler cylinder, it should have a key code on it and you could order a key or a good locksmith could cut you a key if he has a proper blank.

Sorry about that but I HAD to take that call. Every part on that car will pass through the hands of the restorer so why not do it correctly. So many times I've casually helped an owner who's doing a lot of the work himself and he'll often put an incorrect finish on a part or subassembly or use an incorrect part. His reply to my comment about the mistake he made or is planning to make is "well, I never plan to put it in a show". WRONG, every time he takes it out it's in a show. OK, what about cost? In the world of today, and it doesn't make a bit of difference what the marque is, it starts @ 80K. Yes, I said 80K. It will very quickly go up from there if rust is prevalent. "But Mike, I just talked to a body shop who quoted me 25K for the works". Be careful, very careful. Another important issue in the case of Zs is parts. Expect to pay a TON for that rare gem you found after shaking the bushes for a while. Last week I had a chat with a Z owner who recently sold an NOS 240 air injection manifold for 2K. Restoration is not for the weak of heart. Next installment "Factory Restoration", "Just off the boat restoration", etc. How to cut through the hype/marketing.

zspect, You describe the correct way to restore a vehicle, however to my knowledge powder coating was not in original finish on the 240Z. This deviation from original may result in a quick slide down a slippery slope of “enhancements”and “improvements”. Keith

RESTORATION Customer excitedly bursts into my now closed shop "Mike, you've gotta check out my 240 - I just had it restored". This is the same chap that wasted a fair amount of my time a few months ago when I explained the restoration process. At that time his only question was "why does it cost so much". That was followed, almost without taking time to breathe, "I don't wanna do all that"! Anyway, I go outside to check out his beauty only to find that it had recently suffered a rather cheap, glass-in, paint job, a new set of incorrect seat covers complimented with mags that are too wide sporting new tires - clearly not a restoration. The industry recognized definition of a restoration is to first reduce the car to a shell with just enough suspension to roll the car around as required. Next it goes to a stripper who removes all of the paint, undercoating, sound deadener and rust to expose what I call the "sins". Sins are the holes in the body that resulted from the rust being removed by the stripping process and or repairs done to the body in the past that, in most cases, were poorly executed. Yes, one may strip the body by applying paint stripper and scraping the layers of old paint off but this takes way too much time and doesn't expose all of the sins. Of course, the chap doing the stripping MUST know his craft and apply the correct media otherwise there could be problems no one wants or needs. The pictured 510 wagon went through the stripping process using 2 different types of media. The fellow who did the job is very experienced and knows his craft. Many, many years ago I restored a 74.5 260 and an 82 ZX which were both stripped using plastic media. I was very happy with the results but plastic seems to have fallen out of favor as I couldn't find anyone to do the 510 with plastic. The next step is body and paint. The body shell may be mounted on a a rotisserie which could make working on the body shell easier - each case is different. All of the unacceptable sheet metal is replaced with new metal which is carefully, and hopefully, done in a way to replicate the original process. Major ripples, dents and or unevenness are treated with hammers/dollies or rivets and pullers. Bondo or plastic filler is used to smooth out minor imperfections. Now we're ready for the paint booth. Interesting to note - about 90% of the dirt that finds its way onto new paint jobs comes off of the painter. Most painters now use a one time use suit and hood. While the car is making its way through the body and paint shop is when all of the stuff you removed to reduce the car to a shell gets the business. Engine and trans rebuild, heater restoration, gauge restoration/repair, fastener replating, suspension powder coating, seat rebuilding, etc. Yes, the list is much longer than I've outlined but each system needs to be addressed and now is the best time to do it. Now is NOT the time to say "well it just costs too much to address X. NO, now is the time. Just got a VERY important call so I'll finish later.

All, Thanks for the info. Dropped the R200 in the car, your are correct, the driver side side axle is shorter than the passenger side. Installed the short axle in the CLSD, engaged flush and installed in the car. never run a clutch diff before. Are there better oils and weights to run in a CLSD? Spent the dollars on Red Line 75-90 w full syn for the open diff but not sure this is correct for the clutch unit? Any help would be welcome. Thanks again.

Missing dovetail on the passenger door, photo 150. Also the rubber weather strip under the door. They weren’t there in 2019 when it was last on BAT. I just remanufactured the early pre 1973 dovetails for my 1970/71 240Z as they were no longer available. Also did the plastic grease reservoir for the steering rack and the plastic cover for the battery. The Vintage Z cars were restored with parts that were available at the time, 1997/98; not always period correct parts but they did the best they could.

I plugged mine off but it doesn't get very cold down here. Less chances off leaking, losing coolant was my main reason. Lots of info in these threads... https://www.google.com/search?q=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&sca_esv=77dc914585b7f4b2&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&ei=1oETafjINaKHp84P-LudoAw&ved=0ahUKEwj4i8S_3uqQAxWiw8kDHfhdB8QQ4dUDCBM&oq=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiLXBsdWdnaW5nIHdhdGVyIHRvIGNhcmJzIDI0MHogY2xhc3NpY3pjYXJzLmNvbTIFEAAY7wUyCBAAGKIEGIkFMgUQABjvBTIIEAAYgAQYogQyBRAAGO8FSJZBUOkFWKcfcAF4AJABAJgBlgGgAcYIqgEDMC45uAEMyAEA-AEBmAIKoALsCMICDhAAGIAEGLADGIYDGIoFwgILEAAYsAMYogQYiQXCAggQABiwAxjvBcICCxAAGIAEGLADGKIEwgIKECEYoAEYwwQYCsICCBAhGKABGMMEmAMAiAYBkAYIkgcDMS45oAfSHLIHAzAuObgH5wjCBwUwLjguMsgHFA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Another VRP car. Already sold once for $101,240. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-380/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-93/

About rust free section from a series 1 . Not using this so up for sale. Hard to find a clean section like this . I’ll ship anywhere 200$ Email Sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Thanks! Of course and now that I know I was able to find in shop manual.

Thanks! Not really sure how that would work but more power to Datsun! I think I'll just leave it off and install some sort of standard nipple.

Pete’s slow-to-go-fast car…

Well hell! @Tanker what year was that Honda electrical brake booster? Did you get a hold of the 3D print file? I’m intrigued but I can’t find the Facebook thread! 😫

I was purchasing a complete NOS ignition switch minus any keys. How difficult is to have keys made for it? Should I take it to a locksmith?

@Terrapin Z - you have a PM! @kickstand80 - you have an email.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_6317.jpg We love to see owners enjoying our Z Car Garage CV Axles in their vintage Nissans and Datsuns. This 1971 Datsun 510 is owned by Jay W and he replaced his old CV Axle kit with our ZCG CV Axles just over 3 years ago. Jay has been racking up the miles running numerous road rallyes in 2024 and 2025 including the Snowball Rally in April, DWA Classic in May, Motherlode 400 in June, Faultline 500, Tokyo Calling 4 in September, Socal TT in October. Here is his report from the Overcrest Rally. Featured in Nostalgic Hero http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/SnapInsta.to_498660032_18501146884023768_6205027060332564518_n-1-e1761796577859.jpg Before we hear about Jay’s rally adventure let us congratulate him on being featured in the popular Japanese magazine Nostalgic Hero! See both of his 510s in the June 2025 Vol 229 issue: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/SnapInsta.to_498710765_18501146902023768_4217799646128381976_n.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/SnapInsta.to_498157601_18501146923023768_2067501625224048033_n-e1761796595162.jpg 2024 Overcrest Rally Redux http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_6139.jpg September 16, 2024, by Jay Whalen Hi Rob, just checking in as my ZCG CV Axles #403 just clocked 20000 miles in 2+ years. I didn’t capture too many driving videos on Overcrest, but my wife and I have a few from Mother Lode and Faultline this summer. Also, we now have ~22,500 miles on the ZCG axles. Don’t worry I’m cleaning them up, but here are some recent pictures: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/image001-1.jpg The opportunity to enjoy a car you love with like-minded enthusiasts against stunning natural backdrops is what I appreciate most about rallies. The adventure, camaraderie and community stands out to me about Overcrest and was evident when we drove in the Oregon 23’ rally. At their film festival in Oregon they announced the spring Redux 24’ rally was in Utah and I knew I needed to share the adventure with my father and son in my 1971 Datsun 510. I had followed online the 21’ Overcrest Rally in Utah I was blown away by the stunning backdrop and the cinematic journey the rally created. Plus seeing and driving with rally friends, I didn’t know were attending and meeting new ones from all over the country is a large reason I’m drawn to Overcrest. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_6136.jpg The 510 is not just a mode of transportation for the rally; it’s a character in my family’s adventure story. There is a shared excitement of revving its underpowered engine, hearing the twin Mikuni carbs, and dancing the car on winding paved and dirt roads. There is also the collaborative effort required to navigate the rally route, endure hundreds of miles a day of hard driving and the collective pride in showcasing our classic amidst a field of diverse vehicles. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_6282.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/D137FBC7-1EF1-4E40-8149-0DE94EBCCCF0.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_5987.jpg Speaking of diverse vehicles, our client Tony K also attended in his 1972 Datsun 240Z: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Snapinsta.app_470814633_18476034988012891_5134614265672041150_n_1080.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Snapinsta.app_470687482_18476034940012891_5140023495301743266_n_1080.jpg Driving alongside my father and son adds a generational resonance to the rally. It’s a multi-layered narrative where the car becomes a conduit for shared stories, passed down from my father to me and now shared with the next generation. It is something my family holds close and we’ll remember for a lifetime. The rally becomes a living testament to the enduring legacy of our family’s love for cars and the joy of driving. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_6641.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_6931.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/R0001253.jpg Our rally journey took us 8 days and 2900 miles across the California Centra Valley, Sierra Nevada, Movaje Desert, Great Basin and the Colorado Plateau. We drove a large loop which allowed us to explore several National Parks and retrace my fathers HWY 50 drive when he moved to California in 1971. The 510 did extremely well, with no major issues. We had a flakey starter motor, wore out a pair of tires and went through a quart of oil. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_6581.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/R0001236.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_6621.jpg In essence, the Overcrest Rally in Utah with my father and son was a celebration of heritage, a journey through time, and an opportunity to weave new memories into the fabric of our family’s motoring legacy. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/IMG_6482.jpg Enjoy this video of Jay’s 510 in action on a few of the rallies he attended in 2024, volume up!: We love Jay’s attention to detail and it shows in his rally prep! Check out the skid plate his CAD designed: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/IMG_7023.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/IMG_7545-1024x874.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/image_50427905-1024x680.jpg See more build details with photos of the 510 HERE. Follow his Datsun adventures on his Instagram. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/IMG_7643-1024x793.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/image-11-1024x772.png http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/IMG_5837-1024x768.jpg Thank you Jay for your support and keep Enjoying the Ride! More photos in the gallery below: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/IMG_7101-1024x768.jpg View the full article

This one is still in my 82 parts car.

It is a thermostatic switch to close off the manifold coolant line (the tube across the manifolds). A remedy for over heating the fuel, that did not function well. IMHO

Crankcase breather tube, The large hole goes the the PCV valve on the intake manifold.

Blue pipe I'm taking off my emissions and saw this. Seems important but I have no idea how important. It obviously needs to be attached somewhere...

Goes on the intake manifold near the firewall. Mine broke off when I was trying to remove the short hose that attaches to this doohickey.