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Thank you

'Course the guys who REALLY know their onions know that the bodyshell's individual identity is ENGRAVED on the firewall, not stamped... 😊

That was a great Deal for the Buyer.

Ditto that @Route66 …….I got the 2 fenders and a hood for the 71 restoration from my local Nissan dealer.

Just to echo someone else's comment, I find that Z program fascinating as well as any tidbits that keep coming to light years on. I did benefit from it in one way. When Nissan fired the spare parts machine up I believe they must have minted a bunch of new front fenders because I bought two new ones over the local dealer parts counter for a steal. They came stickered with Nissan parts numbers so I've always assumed they were from the original tooling. 🤷

Yeah, it's off a tad.

I was going to post the Cream version but went a little farther back. People are digging up these old recordings all over the place. Pretty amazing.

The well-traveled 71 only got $12,500. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-324/

Called a "reaction disc"

Yeah, the pictures were about the wheel positions. I mean, the seller put them right out there for everyone to see. Still got $31,000. Not bad for what looks like a car that might have smacked a curb or something.

It's always a mistake to paint/powder coat those rear stub axle brake drum flanges, Nissan didn't.

At least he has the front tie-downs

I suspect the reason for those two photos was to point out the differences in the positions of the wheels in the two wheel wells. Yikes.

Well you do! You have an excellent camera.

Is that a reflection on the sugar scoop or are those brush marks?

Bidding is on right now. Check out these two pictures.

Recently I've seen a few classic cars for sale on BaT by sellers that don't seem to know much about what collectors are looking for. Here's a 1971 240Z that has some interesting comments. The seller uses the typical "Series 1" terminology but then doesn't know where the firewall VIN is stamped. Lesson for owners - find a knowledgable seller if you want to get maximum value from your car. This one has a big gouge out of the paint now, even though you could see the number through the paint anyway. Yikes. Lanciafan (The Seller) This author's likes: 1,262 @Pivo, we are not sure what firewall vin you are referring to? I have looked in the motor bay but don’t see any other numbers. Bring a Trailer1971 Datsun 240Z Series I 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a 1971 Datsun 240Z Series I 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #201,028.

Happy to hear that I can help. I had no idea I had a fan. Lol

You're welcome. I have received a lot of help from this forum, and I'm grateful to hear that my "documenting of work" posts are useful to others. I agree that are experiences were similar on the fuel tank. Cheers, Mike

At the request of @Yarb here are some details on my pop rivet install of the squeegee rubber on the belt molding. Background: When I was doing my car 14 years ago, replacement squeegee rubber was not available but Black Dragon had complete belt molding assemblies available at a great price. The molding was excellent but it was straight and not curved to fit the pinchweld on the top of the door. After several tries it was obvious the new molding would not easily curve into the required shape and I was not going to risk damage to a fresh paint job. So... I removed the squeegee strip with its thin metal backplate still stapled in place and installed it on my OE molding with 1/8" pop rivets spaced about every 4 1/2" at the staples. The backside of the pop rivets does not interfere with the fit onto the pinchweld.

I'm going to beat you to it today, 'ol Buddy!

Huge fan of Mr @CanTechZ His advice has always been spot on, saving me a lot of time and....MONEY. Thank you Sir! Cliff

CanTechZ thanks for your post and introducing me to your amazing re-restoration posts. I just spent a couple of hours looking through all of them. Great insights and many useful photos. Looks like we had similar experiences with the fuel tank and filler hose connection.

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I'm a little late to the party as you have succeeded in removing the filler neck. For reference here is a post on what I did on my 1970 a few years back, I was lucky that mine was easier than yours. I have found that the "pushing" a hose off a barbed fitting works much better than trying to pull it off, same principal here.