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Hi gang, I'm a bit confused regarding adjusting the rear shoes after replacing the wheel cylinders. I was able to yank the drum off without bringing the shoes in on one side but the other I had to play with that little shoe adjustment wheel to bring the shoes in before the drum would pop back on. I am reading in the FSM that pulling the e-brake a few times adjusts the shoes back out automatically, but I'm reading on the forums you have to play with that gear again to bring the shoes back out. Any ideas which it is?

Up front in the area of the console look for blue tape around the wire harness. That's where you should find the female plug with 2 wires. Put a jumper across the plug and you should then have power back at the tank for the electric pump. It's a good idea to put an inertia switch in the jumper loop to shut off the pump in the event of a crash.

The original pump includes an inlet strainer, but I don’t think the O’Reilly’s E16078 has one. In principle it’s the same style as the Bosch 0580 254 044 that replaced the factory unit. If you want to add a pre-filter, you can install two 5/16" filters in parallel to avoid fuel starvation and prevent cavitation in the pump. Their only purpose is to protect the pump, the filter up front will protect the injectors. 280 Series Fuel pump Alternatives Rev 1.pdf

Sorry, this 240Z dash is not in the car but here are pictures of the dash wiring and the unused connector that could deliver power back to a fuel pump. The wiring comes down the right side of the heater slider assembly with all the wiring to the fuse box and center console connections.

🤣 OMG... I used to do that... Thank goodness I haven't seen a phone cord in decades!

The cup or the embossed piece holds the spring and the small hole keeps the pin centered. I'm sure you've seen a spring that has slipped to one side - now you have spring steel that is potentially causing wear on the pin and backing plate due to it's abnormal position.

Yes, the terminal on the ballast resistor with the higher voltage is the ignition side. I would move your red Pertronix wire from the coil + side to that terminal, that is how I have it hooked up and that's what Pertronix shows in their diagram. You measured 10V and that seems to be on the low side but may be OK if the engine is not running and the alternator not charging. When I installed the Pertronix on my car I cleaned all of the electrical connections on the resistor and coil. After 50+ years there may be some dirt or corrosion on the terminals/connectors. Also, you probably know, but do not leave the ignition in the "ON" position very long with the engine not running as it can overheat and damage the Pertronix module.

Just got the harmonic balancer Back. Looks really good. Namerow asked for pictures.

Thanks jpc3006-1. I'm assuming that'll be the side with the Black wire? Voltage measurement there is 10V and on the other side is right around 6V. That's with the ignition to the "ON" position, as the car's not currently able to run. Voltage at the battery is 12V. On a more positive note, the clock actually works. Who would have thunk it? It's just ticking away...

Pair of original wiper arms, stainless steel. no rust, marked left and right. $60.

Senna, Regarding your Pertronix installation I noticed in the first picture above it appears that you have the ballast resistor in the circuit. If this is true you should move the positive lead for the Pertronix module to the ignition (12 vdc) side of the ballast resistor. I you have bypassed the ballast resistor then your connections to the + and - sides of the coil are correct. I've attached the Pertronix installation guide for your information as it explains why I am making this comment. JPC Pertronix Installation .pdf

Also found this at the front of the car next to the passenger side lamp housing. 😐 New engine bay harness has already been ordered from Restoration Classics along with vent hoses. I've also gotten their zinc hardware kit and complete weatherstripping but ordered it through Summit racing. Same price but shipping was free with Summit.

Now on to the second part of help I'm in need of. I just wanted to double check that this is the correct connection for the resistor, coil, and distributor. The distributor is a Petronix. Looking at the top of the coil the +Positive is on the left and -Negative is on the right.

Hmm... Ok. I can't seem to find the Black/White and Green wire. There doesn't appear to be anything tied in under the electrical tape, or at least that I can tell. I've attached some pics if any of you can spot that connector or where it might be point it out. cgsheen1, noted about the fuse and impact sensor, those will certainly be added to the growing list. 3059B833-18DE-4968-9712-208BCEC811BC.heic 9820C1D0-2E57-48D3-9CF3-963FCA9666BE.heicE07385F0-A81B-424C-8081-247F872673BE.heic

Have you seen this? Inside a stranger's house with my parents and I was unwinding their phone cords.😇

thanks for all the help, I did install the 2 rubber plugs underneath the back side of the hatch last year as it must have been an oversite when I restored the car years ago, it did help big time. never thought to look up after the bottom hatch was painted and installed. thanks for making me look again at the license plate wire grommet which was replaced back then. years ago, I think back in the 90s I did purchase a black rear carpeted 6x9 speaker box from motorsport auto that replaces the back cover for the taillights. what I just found was the bass tube in the center has an open 2" plastic pipe that lets the bass out from behind the 6x9" speakers into the cabin. so, I used some black gorilla tape and closed up the pipe on the inside. if it does help which I now think it will then I don't mind losing some bass and having better air in the cabin. that weatherstrip in the rain gutter seems useless to me maybe that is why I never replaced it back then. but it was cheap enough that I will just replace it, so it is original.

Don't forget the 2 rubber plugs underneath the back side of the hatch...

The 20amp fuse referenced in the schematic is probably part of the assembly under the dash (in the vicinity of the fuse box) that Nissan used in the cars that actually had an electric fuel pump from the factory. The "fuel pump connector" under the dash - a 2-pin female with a Black/White and Green wire - may well have been tied together with wiring that included a 20amp fuse. Probably not a bad idea to include the fuse with an impact sensor while you're connecting those to enable power to the fuel pump wiring already in every 240Z body harness. (and again, the reason the electric fuel pump wiring as referenced in the schematic wasn't allowed in the US is the LACK of a "safety mechanism" to stop the fuel pump operation in a collision)

Also check the vent hose seals from the fuel tank where they come through the floor. The grommet at the license plate light where the wires pass through the rear pan. The seal around the filler neck and the grommet at the drain for the radio antennae

gotcha - so in that case, are the curved edges of the washer really necessary for proper operation or will a flat washer do? I called courtesy nissan down the road and they can get it but its $22 for a washer - I couldn't believe it!

My OCD would have me doing both the same BUT I doubt that it would actually matter. The real purpose of the pins and springs is to keep the shoe in place while you get the drum back on and to provide some anti-chatter.

Spot The Bot!!! @Mike