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  1. Today
  2. look at photo I sent on Monday, Green is + , white /blk stripe is (-)
  3. 78 280Z Background....about a year ago I completely disassembled everything in my engine bay so I could repaint the bay, refurbish all the engine compartment components and then reinstall it all. I'm finished up with it all now...the last remaining task before getting the Z back on the road is bleeding all four brakes. Video Player is loading. Play Video Play Unmute Current Time 0:06 / Duration 0:19 Loaded: 100.00% Stream Type LIVE Seek to live, currently playing liveLIVE Remaining Time -0:13 Playback Rate 1x Chapters Chapters Descriptions descriptions off, selected Captions captions off, selected Audio Track Fullscreen This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. Escape will cancel and close the window. Text ColorWhite Black Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta CyanTransparencyOpaque Semi-Transparent Background ColorBlack White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta CyanTransparencyOpaque Semi-Transparent Transparent Window ColorBlack White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta CyanTransparencyTransparent Semi-Transparent Opaque Font Size 50% 75% 100% 125% 150% 175% 200% 300% 400% Text Edge Style None Raised Depressed Uniform Dropshadow Font Family Proportional Sans-Serif Monospace Sans-Serif Proportional Serif Monospace Serif Casual Script Small Caps Reset restore all settings to the default valuesDone Close Modal Dialog End of dialog window. Advertisement So today I jacked up the rear, removed the wheels and started the process by trying to bleed the left rear brake. Video Player is loading. Play Video Play Unmute Current Time 0:00 / Duration 0:19 Loaded: 100.00% Stream Type LIVE Seek to live, currently playing liveLIVE Remaining Time -0:19 Playback Rate 1x Chapters Chapters Descriptions descriptions off, selected Captions captions off, selected Audio Track Fullscreen This is a modal window. Beginning of dialog window. Escape will cancel and close the window. Text ColorWhite Black Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta CyanTransparencyOpaque Semi-Transparent Background ColorBlack White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta CyanTransparencyOpaque Semi-Transparent Transparent Window ColorBlack White Red Green Blue Yellow Magenta CyanTransparencyTransparent Semi-Transparent Opaque Font Size 50% 75% 100% 125% 150% 175% 200% 300% 400% Text Edge Style None Raised Depressed Uniform Dropshadow Font Family Proportional Sans-Serif Monospace Sans-Serif Proportional Serif Monospace Serif Casual Script Small Caps Reset restore all settings to the default valuesDone Close Modal Dialog End of dialog window. Advertisement As an aside, before I started this "refurbish" process, the brakes were working perfectly...very firm, even braking from all four brakes. Using a Motive Products Power Bleeder, pressurized to 15 psi, I was unable to get a steady flow of brake fluid from either rear brake bleeder port. Additionally, when I tried pushing the brake pedal it was very firm...as in I could barely push it down at all. Next I connected clear tubes to both of the master cylinder bleeder ports an stuck the other end of the tubes into the reservoir (see photo). I opened the bleeder screws and was easily able to pump the brake pedal, circulating brake fluid from the bleeder into the reservoirs. So, the question is, why is the brake pedal so firm with the master cylinder bleeder screws closed, but not with the bleeder screws open? I'm thinking 1) the brake master is malfunctioning 2) there is some kind of blockage preventing brake fluid from flowing freely from the master cylinder to the rear brakes...perhaps a problem with the NP valve (proportioning valve). Eager to hear your ideas.
  4. Thanks for sharing . All but one were made in the last 20 years . Jeez - I’m glad I’m faster than a 300 Chrysler - lol. Working on a diesel intake conversion for the motor . This will be interesting . Much .bigger and longer runners . I’m a month out from a dyno session
  5. The Z accident is a bummer, but I'm not really angry about it. That kind of thing happens; we're all human. The G tweaks me. No note or anything, there was *plenty* of space, and I'll probably be out a $500 deductible to get it fixed. Lots of things I'd rather spend that money on.
  6. If you guys are replacing those switches, it may be worth while to check the materials used for the switch. You will want something stainless or nickel-plated brass. You could also head down to your local marine store to see what they've got. I know mine has a ton of these switches in stock and ready for the elements. https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sitesearch.aspx?keyword=toggle switch&sitesearch=true
  7. Great reference thread! Thanks.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Some more progress towards getting this thing painted! Insert pretty boring videos for here 🙂
  10. Is this "meta"? Still trying to get a good grasp on that word..
  11. I had the ad on yahoo but can't find it again, their website doesn't list them and I don't buy Japanese language magazines. As you say, not rocket science so string it out a bit, throw in a few more scornful remarks like you do to most Z owners and post it up, please.
  12. https://9gag.com/gag/awAqGNr
  13. Haven't gotten past page 3 on your post. Did you get yours running? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
  14. The main function of the choke cables is to pull the nozzles down, richening the mixture but the linkage also opens the butterflies a bit. That allows more air into the mixture and raises the idle RPMs. The nozzles shouldn't stick. Try lubing them first if that doesn't work check the nozzle linkage alignment. You may have to twist the linkage (circled in red, above) to be sure the mating surfaces on each end are parallel to their attachment points.
  15. Especially if you weld them into place when they are just right.
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