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  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks All, I'll try cutting a groove and bending out or off the treads. Concerned about cutting to the treads. Back with a report shortly.
  3. Got a new passenger side window regulator. Original had a broken wheel which doesn't work so well. Installed that last night. Attached an exhaust system comparison. My original is still at the muffler shop since I need another one, but here is the comparison with a spare I had in the backyard (That's a scary place) Worked on the Carb plumbing. I have one partially broken water system fitting that might still work. Will check today to see if I can find a new one. Also, I need the plumbing that goes from the water feed tube to the carbs. That is totally MIA. Will have to put out an APB to see if anyone has those. Will post pics of parts I need later today. Was playing with camera settings on car pic.
  4. Oops. We were posting at the same time. Glad to hear that the pistons are rising smooth now. It's pretty much impossible to get "too much" oil into the damper stalk hole. If you put too much oil in the hole, Archimedes will displace the excess when you insert the damper check valve jiggly bits into the carb. And that excess will just run down into the carb and be burned by the engine. So I'm not sure at all about the current problem now. Not sure what you are trying to describe. But good progress so far!
  5. I'm thinking of all new suspension rubber, strut bearings and the Koni's with stock springs. Found the OEM insulators for the $64.21 on Amazon with free shipping which makes the price difference from after market only about $40! https://www.amazon.com/1970-1978-Nissan-Front-Insulator-54320-E4100/dp/B00TNL7LTK
  6. Today
  7. This morning I pulled up the one "sticky" head bolt (long one center cam tower) all loaded up with black carboned up goo around the threads. Maybe the head leak area? The ones I pulled from the MN47 head were nearly perfectly clean looking, and prob what I will use, unless someone tells me they should not be reused. I can see I will need to get a flat bottom clean out tap.
  8. Test the start switch for intermittent contact with a continuity test (tone) in the start position. That mechanical switch is old and seen a lot of use.
  9. To answer your question @87mj I believe you install the barrel clips over the pins first and then push the emblem in. This way you do not risk pushing one of the barrel clips in to the body.
  10. One of the big leaps to JNC popularity worldwide came as a result of the 1973 oil embargo. The crisis inspired designers, engineers, and entrepreneurs to think of ways to push the automobile’s fuel efficiency limits. One such person was … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  11. That's a nice looking Z. Interesting car stand, kind of a gear cranked teeter totter, did you buy it or make it?
  12. A dead tach could be a problem also. If it is shorted out it might be hindering the "break" part of the make-it-break-it spark generation cycle, since it's connected to the coil negative terminal. Has it always been that way? Yes, the module is up in front of the fuse panel. The parts on the 280Z EFI cars are interconnected. Problems with one system can cause problems with another. You might have some troubleshooting ahead of you.
  13. View Advert Rear Hatch carpet WTB good original rear hatch carpet in Black for series 1 240z Advertiser SGarrett Date 05/21/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240z  
  14. https://www.bbc.com/sport/formula1/46781936
  15. Yesterday
  16. Too bad you're so far away and I really don't need another "iron in the fire" GLWS
  17. Unless the car is in a relatively dry and not humid shop or garage, the raw metal will need to be protected. Some rattle can primer will help as long as it's not really sitting in the rain getting wet. Rattle can primer won't protect metal from the rain. If it's relatively dry where it's at then a rust treatment/converter will help the metal not flash rust for months.
  18. That’s something I’m interested in, too! Thanks for bringing this topic up, Ron.
  19. Ditto. Been thinking of John often lately and realized it has been over 3 years. RIP.
  20. Here's the ordering information for the new Classic 8 GTR wheels by VTO: 15x7” https://www.vtowheels.com/Classic-8-GTR-15-x-7-Custom-Drilled-0mmSilver-wMachined-Lip_p_193.html 16x7” https://www.vtowheels.com/Classic-8-GTR-16-x-7-Custom-Drilled-0mmSilver-wMachined-Lip-_p_194.html
  21. Thank you Charles. You confirmed my suspicion. I will try to find a 280z fender.
  22. View Advert Nikki Fuel Pump Parts - Mechanical Fuel Pump Spectra SP1173MP fits 75-77 Nissan 710 2.0L-L4 NEW Mechanical Fuel Pump, SP1173MP ..... 3.5psi - 4.5psi For Sale is a New Fuel Pump, SP1173MP. I bought several of these to rebuild my Nikki Stock fuel pump as written up on this site. I have enough spare parts now in case the Nikki fails again. This fits 1975-77 Datsun/Nissan 710 2.0L-L4 engines or equivalents. Thus it's for sale at a nice discount including shipping to 48 continental states. Thank you! If interested send text to Mark: 507-208-0140 Advertiser moritz55 Date 05/21/2019 Price $28.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  23. He's using the same picture for both pumps, which he borrowed from Rockauto or some other site, or Airtex themselves. So you don't really know which pump you're getting. He might be selling the $30 pump for $67.50. I'd call and ask for the brand and where he gets them before buying. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=60014&cc=1209260&jsn=364 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=60014&cc=1209260&jsn=364
  24. I'm going to pick up a line (bleeder) wrench like this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHNAWDW/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AMY4I718ZUBOU
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