Jump to content

Topics Last 30 Days

Showing topics, images, calendar events and files posted in for the last 28 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. OK, I'll look for my sketch. So I've got some questions about this adapter plate you're planning... With the mounting holes being "close, but not close enough", there is significant overlap between the original pattern and the scheme for the 350Z. That overlap presents a set of difficulties in making an adapter plate. It would actually be easier if the patterns were radically different instead of just a little different. Are you planning to make this thing from multiple pieces and sandwich them together? Are you planning to spin the 350Z throttle body a little (clock it 45 degrees or something) so that none of the holes interfere with each other? Something else? Sorry... I'm just having trouble picturing this plate.
  3. Spark plug in cylinder 4 is fouling. Could it be attributable to bad PCV Valve? How do i check and clean PCV Valve? Can you run car with rubber plug replacing PCV Valve to determine fouling cause?
  4. Spark plug in cylinder 4 is fouling. Could it be attributable to bad PCV Valve? How do i check and clean PCV Valve? Can you run car with rubber plug replacing PCV Valve to determine fouling cause?
  5. Today
  6. That is a great looking car. That will make a great "Driver." It's great to see the 280Z starting to get some love.
  7. He sent a few more pic's but has even more on Zdriver : https://www.zdriver.com/forums/fs-240z-260z-280z-280zx-70-83-242/70-240z-43197/#post348914 Here is a better look at the plate. Looks like something else was mounted in the lower holes where it would normally sit.
  8. Wow Alan! That is pretty shady practice. I was reading the advert on the phone under a duvet while having insomnia and half a brain on - clearly missed a lot of what you pointed out. So in reality someone is likely to spend upwards of £60k only to discover they have a cut and shut in all but name! :o It reminds me of another car that came out of the ZFarm with a “questionable VIN v rest of car” situation which a good friend of mine bought and returned to them.
  9. Gland nut removal tool .... Old bracket + 8.8 bolts and a step drill to widen the centre hole. Just add hammer. 2lb is ideal. Oh and bolt strut bottom to the garage floor pre-drilled with a couple of rawlplugs in place. Clearly the original gland nut needs a couple of holes drilled but the new ones from Koni come pre-drilled.
  10. The carbs are on and most things are hooked up but I’m having a pretty sizable issue. The car will only run at 2000/4000 rpm and 200 rpm... nowhere in between When it’s running between 2-4000 it runs well and throttle response is crisp. When it runs at 200 rpm, the throttle mostly just chokes the system. Also the engine will seemingly just randomly shoot up from 200 to 2000 rpm. These carbs could be bad and in need of a proper rebuild, that’s entirely possible, but I really don’t much about the SUs so I’m not sure and I dont have the budget for the rebuild right now so I’m seeing if this problem can be fixed. Here is what I’ve done in an attempt to fix the issue as well as notes on the situation: I’ve moved the mixture nuts around and that seems to be a good way to get it to idle at 2000+ (turning the nut to richen the mix) but it can also jump to high rpm when the nuts are only around three turn out. The choke cables are currently disconnected because I found that I need a piece to affix the cable to these carbs, but I can manually manipulate the choke to get it to idle a bit better but still not great. The pistons in the carbs move up and down as I’ve read they should, with the 20wt oil they’re a bit harder to push up and slowly fall back to the bottom. One of the needles was a bit bent but I was able to straighten a bit by using the technique in the ztherapy video. I do have at least one confirmed vacuum leak and am not ruling out that I could have more. I’m guessing the sudden jump in rpm is one or both pistons rapidly going up? Im also getting a lot of backfires out of the carbs when it’s running at low rpm And here’s a picture of what the engine bay currently looks like, still very much a work in progress I know things aren’t prefect but please point out anything that could be an immediate issue Im actively researching trying to find information on a situation like this but I figure while I search might as well see if anyone can help me out. Thanks again to everyone that’s helped so far!
  11. Although COVID19 spreads mostly through the nose and mouth, scientists now conclude the greatest risk comes from assholes.
  12. Glad you quieted it down and got it running better. So you didn't mention it, but I'm assuming you also fixed the injector O-ring leak while you were in there? Yes, vacuum leaks large and small are the cause of many of the problems with the fuel injection system.
  13. What about the PCV valve? Could the valve be stucked and the cause of the fouling of that 4th plug?
  14. thanks... big help there. I think i found what i needed at zstore.com (if they are in stock)
  15. Yesterday
  16. Hi all, Recently pass smog test. Been enjoying it every chance I get. Even volunteer to do errands for wife just so I can drive it!!!! I've notice the steering wheel can only make one full circle and the "distance/length" of the tire doesn't cover much. to put it into perspective, I'm having trouble making a 2 lands U-turn. What I mean is the other day I at McDonald's drive through, I had trouble making a right U-turn. My Van and sedan seem able to make a right U-turn quite easily. Of course it inches outside toward the other land a bit, but not as much as the Datsun. I had to back-up a bit in order to make a turn. I had to make a three-point turn. A bit of embarrassed as it was lunch time and was quite a bit of long line ... ;) When I rebuild "grease and new bearing, seal replaced", I noticed the travel rod not that long/far. Is this normal or do I have to do a "drift" at the u-turn!!!! regards
  17. yes all the OE emission controls are intact and functional.
  18. This little guy goes over the nylon bushing that goes on the ball joint on the e-brake handle. Anyone know where to source these or have suggestions for crafting a replacement? He’s toast. Edit: pretty sure the PN is 36436-N3400
  19. So I finally have reinstalled my rebuilt stock motor and drive train in the car but I have run in to a few problems I could use some assistance with. Can anyone tell me which of the 2 hard fuel lines on the frame near the alternator goes to the mechanical fuel pump? The rubber lines were shot and I forgot to label which one went where when I cut them off. Does anyone know the size and thread count for the bolts on the sway bar mounts that mount to the frame? I just want to confirm before I cross thread or strip. The rubber boot on my tranny fell apart in my hands when I went to reinstall the shifter. Any ideas where I might find a replacement? Not the one on the console, the small one on the tranny itself. I sincerely appreciate y 'all's assistance in the past and hope you'll once again will be able to help. Thanks.
  20. Has anyone used the JDM Parts radio delete pocket? I'd like to pop one into my '73 and wanted to check fitment. Thanks. https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/reproduction-radio-delete-pocket-for-fairlady-z-z432r-datsun-240z?variant=25008521737 Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk
  21. The sun came up today, that's good enough for me.
  22. Here's something for anyone finding the original question. These cars are full of clunking and thumping possibilities. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-38/
  23. I have seen that dent on many cars. I suspect it is a factory mod to make the fender fit Now tha't interesting. I'd really like to know more about that. Me also thought it was some sort of strange accident that happened here... But nothing really made sense when i thought about it. Does anybody know more?
  24. Many options ! MN47 head is a great alternative to a late E-88 head . It already has the good seats and a 35mm exhaust valve . If I had my rathers - I’d invest in a MN head . Drilled cam is better than spray bar . Closed chamber head - better for detonation . Smaller chamber for CR . Go with 44 mm intake valves L24 block can go with L28 pistons if you find the right machinist to check wall thickness . If not - go 1mm over on the bore . camshaft ! ISKY cam 490/290 or Steve Bonk cam 530 lift . I think the aftermarket pistons come with reliefs , so a little more room for valves .
  25. Good advice above. You could also carry a can of starting fluid with you. When the engine dies, give it a shot and see if it starts.
  26. FWIW.. i never experienced a autoplay commercial here.. i do get a adv. under in the screen almost every time i go to another thread or other part of the forum... very anoying...👎
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.