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I have a 71 240z that I’ve recently got driving again. It was having some trouble going into gear so I changed out the clutch master and slave cylinder. Now the car has no problem shifting up but seems to not want to shift down easily and grinds when I try to put it in reverse. Any thoughts? I’ve attached a video that shows the slave cylinder actuating when the clutch is engaged. Do I need to adjust the slave cylinder to actuate farther? When the clutch is pressed engine goes into neutral fine. IMG_1808.mov

dzcg might be having seller's regret. 🤢 Everyone knows about ad blockers. They work. Good luck.

@Derek makes something similar. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119641-twin-cam-head-for-the-l6-from-derek-at-datsunworks/?do=findComment&comment=1249401

Thank you, Buddy.

There's one on FB marketplace in Indiana for $100 that looks to be in a little better shape in my opinion. It's out of a '77.

Too dark, black really. I looked again of my pix of the Franklin Mint manifold above and the true, not light distorted, color is at the extreme ends.

Hi Bob: If you are still looking for a welder I would recommend Elhot Metal Fabrication. He is working inhouse at the Shop club on 6th Ave S. He has done rust repair on 3 of my cars over the last 20 years and he is top notch. Of course with 30 years of experience, he's not cheap. Cheers, Mark G

You are correct, I always has a very good pedal feel and then I did not. I think part of the issue is a bad check valve, and here is why I say that. I ran the check valve test with a vacuum gage installed down stream of the check valve in between the check valve and the brake booster. Warmed up the engine Let the vacuum gage settle down to about 45 mmHg or so (I think that was the number) Shut off the car and watched. The needle proceeded to drop and drop and drop and drop down to zero after about a minute or so. If memory serves last time I did this test, it held. So I ordered a new one. I will have to see if this helps or not. Either way, I suppose it is time to change it out as I installed that one back in 2009 according to my Z maintenance book I keep.

Update. It's been several months when I posted questions about a soft feeling brake pedal in my 79 zx. I checked the vacuun check valve and found it to be defective. I didn't even use my vacuum test equipment but instead just removed it and blew and sucked through it and knew it wasn't holding vacuum. I replaced it and now have very good, stock brakes again.

Yes, take it a lock smith. If the core can be removed from the cylinder it isn't that difficult to make a key. Key blanks are common. I can't recall if the core is wafers or pins. Come to think of it, it's a double cut key, so it would be a wafer lock. To remove the core from the cylinder without a key, not a big deal to pick the lock. I have no idea what a lock smith would charge, but it's not a big deal. When I closed my business I kept all the key blanks, I probably have what you need. Jim

This was a clue that it was an electrical problem. If the engine was still spinning because it was in gear then spark will still move the tachometer needle.

I think you may find @26th-Z and @Carl Beck already have most if not all of the documents. I've hoovered them up for my archive. Will be interesting to see what if goes for this time, I think it sold at least once or maybe twice since the last BAT appearance 6 years ago.

Any update. I suspect a gas tank from S30 World might be in my future along with Vapor Lines from Resurrected Classics.

I pulled the computer out and took it apart. It looks really good, so I put it back together and started on the ignition module replacement. I followed this diagram that I got from the knowledge base and tried it out, but no joy. I didnt see anything about needing to run it through the ballast resistor, so I left it out of the new circuit. Im not sure which side is + on the coil so I put the new green wire where the old one was. I found another post that had a resistance measurement for the pickup coil. Looks like its suppose to be around 720ohms. Ill check that next time im out. Im sure im missing something, but im was too tired to really use my brain. The module is bolted to the throttle body temporarily. And I broke out my new plug wires as well. Anyone have any suggestions?

I've been very lucky on many fronts in my life. My luck started with being born in this country and continued through being born into my family. However, for this screed I'll stick to the Z world. I started getting paid, $125.00/week, to be a mechanic at a dealer in 1970, talk about luck. I very quickly realized that paying close attention/noticing things were important aspects to becoming successful at my craft. When I opened my now closed shop in 1980 a trickle of unmodified original owner Z cars started to flow through, talk about luck. It didn't take me long to understand the importance of documenting as many details as possible. The results of my appreciation are a large stack of photos of the many fine details of 240/260/280 construction. I also have many sloppy pages of notes describing the fine points of construction and differences between model years. My goodness, I even have several pages of notes describing, in detail, the fasteners used to secure a 240 timing chain cover for production date X. Every time a serious customer approached me for a restoration I would ask, in detail, exactly what he/she wanted the finished product to look like. Before they had a chance to answer I would describe what an original Z looked like from the factory and I'd often show them a few pictures from my collection. The answer was always not just no but HELL NO! They wanted pretty. What does pretty mean? Modern, often 2 stage, paint that has been wet sanded and buffed to near perfection. Powder coated suspension and all the other bits and pieces of modern restoration required to satisfy a customer. To see 2 of my last 3 Z car restorations visit my site and click on Customer Profiles. When a 240 left the factory there was orange peel in the paint in random places. Have to mention that this particular problem improved markedly in about 1975 or so. However, there was often a serious problem with the clear coat discoloring when 2 stage paint was used starting about the same time. The paint on the bottom was applied very unevenly and often contained dirt in random places. Most of the grommets that were glued in place had glue running down from the grommet. The suspension pieces were painted a sloppy and uneven satin black. There was overspray on some of the exterior engine components that were in proximity to the engine block. The list goes on from there. Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not criticizing Datsun, that was the way cars were often manufactured back in the Olden Days. I can all but guarantee that if a real factory-like restored Z showed up at a convention a trophy would not be forth coming. Now to address the hyperbole that has crept into the world of Z restoration. "Frame -off Restoration", "Rotisserie Restoration", "Factory Restoration", etc., etc., etc. There are some new ones now like "Magnificent" and so forth. The situation is often made worse with fancy photography and lighting. This is what happens when marketing geniuses get involved. Remember the Z Store Program? H@#$, now I'm often confused and don't understand what they're talking about. ALWAYS look at the car you're considering or send someone like me to have a look before making that offer. I understand that I've only lightly covered this subject but there you have it for better or worse.

@Yarb

Shame you had to get rid of the 240z but glad to see the 280zx getting some more attention. I just ordered some parts from the US and will try to fix my 280z over the coming winter. I will definitely come visit you this spring with my 280z!

All, Thanks for the info. Dropped the R200 in the car, your are correct, the driver side side axle is shorter than the passenger side. Installed the short axle in the CLSD, engaged flush and installed in the car. never run a clutch diff before. Are there better oils and weights to run in a CLSD? Spent the dollars on Red Line 75-90 w full syn for the open diff but not sure this is correct for the clutch unit? Any help would be welcome. Thanks again.

I plugged mine off but it doesn't get very cold down here. Less chances off leaking, losing coolant was my main reason. Lots of info in these threads... https://www.google.com/search?q=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&sca_esv=77dc914585b7f4b2&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&ei=1oETafjINaKHp84P-LudoAw&ved=0ahUKEwj4i8S_3uqQAxWiw8kDHfhdB8QQ4dUDCBM&oq=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiLXBsdWdnaW5nIHdhdGVyIHRvIGNhcmJzIDI0MHogY2xhc3NpY3pjYXJzLmNvbTIFEAAY7wUyCBAAGKIEGIkFMgUQABjvBTIIEAAYgAQYogQyBRAAGO8FSJZBUOkFWKcfcAF4AJABAJgBlgGgAcYIqgEDMC45uAEMyAEA-AEBmAIKoALsCMICDhAAGIAEGLADGIYDGIoFwgILEAAYsAMYogQYiQXCAggQABiwAxjvBcICCxAAGIAEGLADGKIEwgIKECEYoAEYwwQYCsICCBAhGKABGMMEmAMAiAYBkAYIkgcDMS45oAfSHLIHAzAuObgH5wjCBwUwLjguMsgHFA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

About rust free section from a series 1 . Not using this so up for sale. Hard to find a clean section like this . I’ll ship anywhere 200$ Email Sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Thanks! Of course and now that I know I was able to find in shop manual.

Pete’s slow-to-go-fast car…

Well hell! @Tanker what year was that Honda electrical brake booster? Did you get a hold of the 3D print file? I’m intrigued but I can’t find the Facebook thread! 😫

@Terrapin Z - you have a PM! @kickstand80 - you have an email.