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My l24 with SU carbs is up and running but I’m having trouble with the air fuel adjustment. I adjusted timing to 5 BDTC and balanced the carbs using a synchrometer. Idle is around 750 rpm. When I use the piston lifter on the front carb rpms increase and then come back down but the engine will then die if I don’t let the piston drop. When I use the piston lifter on the rear carb rpms increase, stay increased (around 1300rpm) and the car backfires. When using the piston lifters ideally rpms will increase and then drop back down without the car dying correct? It seems like the front carb is a bit lean and the rear carb is rich but they are supposed to be adjusted together correct?

The gas in my tank is probably ~6 months old at this point and the car had been sitting for around 2 months (without fuel stabilizer in the tank) while I am redoing its interior. I was traveling a lot for work and when I returned and tried to start the car, the battery was dead. After charging it, I found that the car wasn't starting and traced it to the fuel pump. After a lot of poking and prodding with the test light I found that the wires to and from the pump were getting pretty hot so I gave the pump a few smacks with a hammer, as some orange gas was starting to sneak its way out around the hose (not a great color for gas), and it started right up and I let it idle for ~20 minutes while I added fuel stabilizer. Question - the car ran great, do I need to dump the tank? Should I replace the fuel pump if it's working now (its only about a year old)? did the pump somehow rust shut internally (the tank is around 3/4 full with 93 octane fuel which probably has ethanol in it).

The color more than anything but it does give you another leg to stand on.

I just this morning realized my '72 has all Nissan glass except the front, PPG. That means it's not 100% but a busted windshield on a 53 year old car isn't a deal breaker. It does have the blue-ish tint sun visor.

Glad you came to ZCON and gave me some inspiration on my future engine! I got a pic of our cars together and one of yours at the show Saturday. Hope to see you again at a future event!

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Glad to be alive . I’m a lucky guy for sure . It’s fancy but it’s all business too:)

Here is the SU tuning kit mentioned in post above. I just checked on eBay and they are available for $40. The small aluminum fitting laying on top of the gray package is the one I was referring to.

This is for you, not your car.🙂 Something I figured out after getting older and working on these cars. You can help your back when doing all that tedious engine bay stuff by simply running it up on a set of ramps or raising it up and using jack-stands to get the motor up so you're not bending over all day. Another thing I had learn the hard way was resting my elbows on the fenders would cause dents I ended popping out with a suction cup from HarborFreight. Cover the fenders with anything like towels or paint drop cloths using magnetic bowls that hold all the fasteners. I'm about to adjust the valves on mine. I use a set of Rhino ramps to get my lowered 240 up to, looks like about 38". Just a courtesy bit of advice you probably figured out way before I did and it really helps. Have fun!

Very cool! I love my ZCG brake kit. The KW stuff is probably amazing, but I can't stand the purple and yellow:)

You are right! Mechanic should get this engine running with pertronix ignitor module 1761, 1.5 coil and 1.5 ohm ballast.

Photos are of the original N33 exhaust manifold I removed from my 73. Replaced it with an earlier one when I went to round top carbs. I confirm you need a different downpipe. I was able to swap my 73 downpipe for an earlier one.

Hi Site Been a while….not sure, but whatever adds .080 inches….if they are .040 inches, 2 would do. Don’t hesitate to call Eiji….tell him you’re my cousin and if wants to keep eating steak at our house, he needs to be nice! 🤪 He’ll sell you the right stuff.

Ok thanks but would you know the casting number on the OEM exhaust manifold please ?

I believe he mentioned 10 plus years.

I've been stuck on this album for a couple of weeks now. I'll put on something else and after that finishes I'll say to myself... Let's give John Hiatt - Walk On another play.

I do, I ordered another from Nissan to replace mine. When I get back in town from Boston, I’ll post the p/n. Can’t remember if it was superseded.

I live in arizona... i bought it and it just arived in less than 24 hrs. fastest turn around for a relay i thought i would have to wait 1-2 months for.

Thanks Matthew for a great write-up =) Here is my tiny contribution to it: You were wondering about the Thermal switch 22110-E8000 and stating that it's probably for the automatic model only. I found information which connects it also with the manual model, with the emission control device (EGR) to be more precise. It can also be found from the -73 wiring diagrams (both manual/auto). Please see pictures below: Keep up the good work!