Jump to content

  • entry
    1
  • comments
    2
  • views
    1,221

1973 240z keeps dieing out need help


bulltherott

649 views

I have a 1973 240z and it sometimes just dies out as Iam driving. I could go 30 miles and it runs great then dies or just 10 miles and dies, but it does start back up any know why?Thanks

2 Comments


Recommended Comments

First of all, the blog is the wrong section for your request for help. Suggest you re-post it in the FORUM, in the 240Z section.

Second of all, does it immediately re-start, or require to sit awhile?

It sounds to me like a fuel starvation problem, crud in the tank or lines. If it takes awhile to re-start, SEE if it will re-start immediately using starter fluid. If so, then you know it's a fuel, and not an igition problem.

Link to comment

When it happens, pop the hood and touch the inside portion of the fuel rail....the side facing the valve cover. I'll bet you'll burn your fingers. If so it's vapour lock..same thing as mine. The fuel rail is too close to the valve cover and there is not enough air flow under the hood. If you would drive around with no hood on, this would not happen. So here's an easy fix. Get some heat resistant insulation wrap ...header wrap will do and insulate the rails. I took the rails off...a few bolts, disconnect the fuel lines and this way you can do a nice job on a bench. Next thing is to disconnect the manifold heating. Below the thrmostat you'll see a twisted braided hose that connects to a line to the left of the intake manifold. It comes out the right side mainifold, wraps around the rear part of the engine and ties back into a 'Y' where the heater core return ties in. You'll have to drain the rad somewhat then disconnect the line at the thermostat housing (undet the stat). I screwed out the nipple and threaded in a plug...I think it's 3/8 pipe thread..not sure but picked it up at Home Depot plumming dept. Now disconnect the line on the passenger side where it ties into the 'Y' and plug that end. I sliped a short pipe with the end capped.

Another fix I read that also helped was installing 280 hood vents to get rid of some heat. What I plan on doing is getting vented lids where the battery and washer fluid is to allow some heat to escape. This way I won't have to cut into the hood. With the 1st two fixes, my car does not stumble or hesitate anymore. I also eliminated a few hoses that could spring a leak. Manifold heating is not required unless you drive it in the winter... Check the pics of my car

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Blog Statistics

    • Total Blogs
      167
    • Total Entries
      251
  • Blog Comments

    • I'm still waiting on a hoist to free up before I can start bolting the new brake parts on my Z, but I did make the drill jig today.  I started with a 12mm thick Mustang wheel spacer with a pilot.  I then made a drawing to layout the holes needed.  I transfered the drawing onto the spacer and I drilled three new 1/8" holes through the jig (spacer) so I'd have the correct 4x114.3mm holes.  One hole is shared from the original 5 lug rotor.  I then bolted the jig onto the Mustang rotor and simply dr
    • Local radiator repair shops used to be plentiful but getting harder to find.  Some of them just specialize in big truck-heavy equipment radiators.  I will be needing to do the same for my project.  I have heard good reports on gas tank RENU but there are none of those franchises in my area.  Good luck, John-Lugoff, SC
    • Decided to go with the 240sx conversion. Main reason is it’s strictly for the street and the parts were easy to source. What I didn’t realize was the 14” wheels won’t clear the caliper. Now looking for a set of 4 lug 15” rims and tires I can use during the build process. Can anyone recommend a temporary solution as far as make and model preferably a steel wheel that I can use until I’m ready to buy the wheel and tire combination at the end of the project? Thanks again for all the help out there.
    • There are several reasons to use the S197 rear brakes.  The rotors are larger diameter than the SVO rotors and they are vented.  The calipers have larger pistons to give them more power.  The big beef with the Maxima rears is that they don't offer as much stopping power as the stock drums.  The S197 rears allow the addition of an adjustable proportioning valve.  The Maxima rears cannot utilize an adjustable prop since the prop needs to be all the way open to get close to enough rear bias. 
    • Any particular reason to use S197 Mustang 5-lug brakes?  The Fox body SVO Mustangs had rear discs with 4-lug.  It's a popular swap to use SVO or T-bird Turbo Coupe rear brakes to retrofit discs to other Fox body Mustangs.  These parts are still pretty common (probably available as a kit).  Might be worth checking to see if they'll fit.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.