dutchzcarguy

YEAH!! That's the one!!

Hi John, If you can get those off in one part, you put them in a small container (glass) and put a lot of clothes detergent and some hot 60c water and leave them there for a week they will get unbelievable nice and soft. During the week you can heat this pot with stuff in the magnetron.. not to hot but 60 degrees celcius is fine.. you WILL be surprised! Also there is someone that makes all(most all) those rubbers of a 240z.. can't remember his name.. he is named more than once on this site.. sorry..

Hihi.. my car does not have that roller for over 25 years at least! btw.. is that the culprit why my window comes (at the top) about a quarter inch to the inside when i'm driving about or over 50mph and want to close the window.. I need to stop/ slow down, and get the window back in the good position! Then close it.. hahaha..

Hihi.. not in Fahrenheit! Lets say if you touch the aluminum wheels (somewhere in the middle) and you have to pull back fast because it feels to hot to let them a few seconds on there, that's most times to hot.. Normally if you drive an half hour with lots of hard braking you get the same result, those wheels get very hot.. (That's normal) Take a look at the container/user manual of the grease you used! It should say something about temperatures.. It does remind me of a time i drove a sunny coupe to work very fast.. When i came at the firm and stopped and got out there was a black plume of smoke over both front wheelarches! 😁

Keep an eye on the temperature of your front bearings, if you suspect problems take a ride and do all the braking with your e brake, then after half hour drive measure the temperature of the bearings.. just in case..

I also have the original 3! point belt in the 240z and also a 4 point rally safety harnas on the original bolts and on one of the top of the rear strut towerbolts. I always use the harnas, the old belts are under the seats. (the third belt just hangs in the rear on the side of the roof.) @steveJ , was very funny to just say: Yes !!

Before paint you have to assemble the whole car to check the gaps between the panels. All panels are empty then. If they fit perfect you can go for paint and assemble everything. I believe the last time i put my 280zx with very long doors together i smuggled a little by hanging the doors just a tiny little higher than they should and it went very well.. You can simulate the weight by just laying your hand on the door.. But it's always a guess. You might need to readjust them after complete assembling it. If you do, use some paint protecting towels as a paintchip can be very frustrating.. (no i had no paintchips)

And while he does that.. He plays the record with Madonna singing: Get into the groove !! 👍

I haven't read the whole story but i guess when you reach 30 !!! pages you have done every aspect.. IF NOT.. do get yourself a new distributor and coil and stuff.. I drive a datsun 240z now for 24 years and always have a lot of spareparts hanging/laying/standing around.. i can't understand why people sell every part they have laying around when they have restored a car. I drive it summer and winter (300zxtt in the summer only also) and it's VERY HANDY to have your own partsstore! I once bought a spare engine complete and took a car completely apart for parts as the bodywork was to far gone. Always handy to have some extra parts as you can barter/exchange.. and your stuff keeps it's value.. once bought a good gearbox for 75 euro.. now it's 1500 euro.. 🙈 What people also do is exchange parts from another car and see if the problem moves to the other car.. but i guess you can't or already done that.. (I mean asked this..) Btw, i admire your patience, I would have stuck that car behind the wallpaper ages ago!! (It's a Dutch saying translated! hahaha.. ) 🤣🤣🤣

Yeah, get the parts you need and pull that engine apart.. very interesting to see what the problem is.. Although the compression looks good it could be some broken rings on your No: 4 piston or something like that.. Can't wait for the pictures! I would have taken it apart years ago.. just start to do it, you learn A LOT! And... ASK if you don't know exactly how to do something like opening up a engine! And remember, pictures can tell more than a 1000 words so put a pic with your questions! I ones had to open up a 300zx engine, it was a non turbo z32.. my dealer told me YOU CAN'T DO THAT! I told him "you don't know what i CAN! I brought it to the dealer because i had an accident at work and was very ill.. then the dealer wrecked the engine by making a "testride" It had a timingbeld problem.. I took it apart AT THE DEALER and repaired it all,It costed me 1600-2000 guilders. (Then about 1000 dollars..) This was in 2001... the car is still on the road today!!

In 2000 i restored my 240z brakes with original rubber hoses and are still on it.. so get the orig hoses from nissan.. simply the best. 😉

I don't know if there are more people that have this but my side vents always open up automaticly during driving.. In the winter i need to close them every 10 minutes or so, i guess it's because of all the shaking going on haha.. So, don't lube them.. make them go stiffly, otherwise you'll have the same "problem" ..

Oh well.. then the problem must be my eyes.. because at 0:42 minute into the vid i see A LOT of paint difference between the fender and the door.. to many not a problem.. But i got a saying here.. If that car is painted in one piece (As it should have been done) I eat a car! (And then i always say: of chocolate ofcourse..) 🤣 But (anyway..) is has some paint differences in the "bolted parts" like the doors,fenders,headlightscoops rear hatch and hood... They are small but are definately there. (That's why i insisted that my painter painted my car in one and the same afternoon in the same conditions in the same booth.

Nice car but a lot of color difference between front fender and door.. they were not painted at the same time.. (See the small pictures on bring a trailer.. there it's very visable)

YES! We drive V8's... He means 5... oohh...😀