mlc240z

I'm not touching mine yet. Pretty sure it's unmolested and figure eventually gonna have to have it at least refreshed with seals and seats.

Welcome Mario. Lots of good information and great people on this site. You have great taste in cars.

Fastwoman, definitely looked at the E-Z coils. I felt since they're only vent lines (no liquid to worry about flow restriction) and the bend was so extreme, I'd rather worry about the inside diameter collapse. Plus the stainless springs were cheaper.

Just did this due to the issue of a full tank and a left turn would release gas fumes into the interior. While I had the tank down, had it boiled out and sealed at a radiator shop that also did the Renuzit (?) tank treatment. When the guy looked at the tank, he said it didn't need the full treatment for around $300+ (which I would gladly have paid) but instead boiled it out, coated the inside and painted the outside. Still paid about $200 but should be good for another 20+ years. Also replaced all vent lines and the filler tube (MSA and aftermarket generic fuel lines). Still able to get about 2 of the lines from MSA but got creative with the bends needed for the unavailables. Used a spring inserted inside generic fuel line for the big bend to prevent collapse of the line. Also read you can use the PEX/plumbing brass 90deg elbow to make the sharp corner. Result is a full tank, left turn and no gas smell inside the cabin. Exhaust smell would def benefit from a redo and seal of all tail/hatch gaskets. I'd already done that part in addition to adding an extension to the exhaust and seal of the antenna drain tube grommet. You can get away reasonably cheap except for the tank boilout/treatment. But I look at it this way. I'll prob never have to d*** with this again in my lifetime. sorry for the long post but go for it.

That is SOOOO poetic...........and so true!

"Take your time, it's a big job if you do it right." Your patience will be rewarded. Like no more heavy gas smell from a full tank and a left turn.

Just redid my tank/hoses and can vouch for the info in the "Rating" link in post#3. I bought a little extra for each different size to make sure I could provide enough length to complete the bends needed. Hey look, lucky post 777

Blue's spot on! Always nice to have a specialty tool that is exactly what's needed to do the job. To reseat the races I've always just inverted the old race and used that as the tool to tap the new into place. Then before it was fully seated and the old "wedged" by the hub, flipped it right side up and drove the new race home. At that point you have the fat end of the old race exposed and just used a punch or similar to drive back out. Don't know if this is that clear but will be evident when you do it.

Kind of minor, but PO replaced the bolt for the thermo housing with a honking big threaded stud and nut. $13 for a brand new MSA housing and the correct bolt. Can't understand why.

Could also take it to any radiator repair shop and just pay to have them tank it and boil it out.

Be careful about leaving the key in the "on" position for too long when testing. From what I've read, it's possible to burn the Pertronix module out.

You can call me Ray. BTW that was also the Gong Show "unknown comic" Sorry couldn't let that blast from the past go without a remark Back to the topic. OOps I'm wrong, it was Bill Saluga.

Could be a couple of bad plugs. Not fouled but are they wet with gas? If not, follow fuel system. If getting gas then check wires. Spark, tho seen might not be strong enough to fire the mixture. Then work your way back to the cap, check terminals, connection of plug wires etc etc. Also, maybe 3/5 valves too tight so when it warms up lash goes out of spec and won't allow intake valves to open enough.