gnosez

Just my $0.02 worth regarding mounting the intake and exhaust before you put the engine in the car. I have never found it to be a fun thing to do bent over the fender trying to get one of the exhaust bolts/nuts on right. For me it's much easier to do it on a stand where I can rotate the engine to gain the best possible angle (notice best possible not the best angle). In the course of a race season I might have an engine in/out 3-4 times. Even a single swap is done the same way. Blew head gasket at Summit Point in May, swapped in the back-up motor and am waiting on a new head gasket so I can do The Glen with a few more HP in October.

Scott K in #202. Very fast driver in a very well sorted out 240. Telemetry and a coach with a driver who listens and isn't afraid to wreck his car (as long as no one else is around) while he tries to be faster in one segment of the track or another.

Diff plug removal tool (1/2-inch bar stock)

You can get the plugs (both styles) from Subaru cheaper than from most others.

I'm replying on just the issue of blocking off the elbow that normally goes to the heater core and the concern that it will cause an overheating issue. My race car has no heater and that elbow has been removed and plugged. While we have blown head gaskets (13.5+:1 CR) it hasn't been related to overheating. On a car that sits at idle in traffic on a hot day, I agree that it should circulate.

Adam owns it now. It is one of a kind however.

The Camel GTU is not actually a race car. I have the order sheet from BSR to Tilton for the gnose and other parts.

Clone bought by Bob and repainted to his color scheme then sold. Nicely done and well sorted.

Both the window net and the air scoop from that BSR 280 CP race car now reside on my 240Z race car. Neither make me as fast or as good looking as PLN.

My uncracked 1972 dash has only been cleaned with windex and then treated with baby oil. You can see where it soaks in as it dries out quickly. I then add a bit more and wipe it down.

We've been using an N42 head for the past 4 years on the L28 race engines with great success. These have had extensive work done with race cams and all parts cyrotreated and REMed. CRs range from high 12s to mid 13s running on either 110 or 112. The L24 has an original BSR E31 that we duplicated for $$$. Which is better? That's really hard to say since there are so many variables with the biggest being the driver. Dyno time (engine) is not cheap and the best chassis dyno is not close enough to play "let's swap heads to see if we can get 3 more HP".

Making the driver in front of me "drive harder" is my go-to approach when running against heavy metal V8s. I normally run in either the Big Bore group (under 5L) or in an all comers group with cars ranged from 50 to over 500hp. Getting them to go deeper puts that much more wear on their brakes until a few more laps in they start to fade. The big block guys are too quick for me to stay with but those small block V8s, they're catchable. on occasion. Looking forward to getting the car out in May.

The one on the bottom looks like a Datsun Comp NLA equal length header.

A great set-up and pass at the 5 minute mark finally getting past a tail happy Porsche.

They suck! LL Bean Boot-Mobile rules....on second thought the Moxie "Horse" car was better.