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ajmcforester

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About ajmcforester


  • User Group: Member


  • Member ID: 6329


  • Title: Registered User


  • Content Count: 1,300


  • Content Post Ratio: 0.18


  • Reputation: 9


  • Achievement Points: 6,883


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  • Joined: 09/13/2004


  • Been With Us For: 7157 Days


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  • Age: 46


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  • Map Location
    Cherry Hill, NJ
  • Occupation
    Forester

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    71 (4/71) Orange, but Org. Safari Gold with American Racing Wheels. It was running restoration; I put the engine to sleep and started the tear down for restoration. She is to replace my totaled 72 (10/71). Restoring to Original condition, but adding a front spook BRE, and side strips like it was from the dealer, and restoring the nerf bars. Then adding a vintage supersprint exhaust,the JDM headlight covers that were given as a gift to the original owner (need new ones they were damaged and thrown out in 74), and the Amco steel door kickplates (I had these on my original Z and loved them).

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  1. Glad you found something that worked the string I got originally was just as strong as the original stuff. I know the new string I bought for my trimmer is very flexible. It also does not brake on the trimmer as easy as the stuff I used to repair the antenna
  2. It is interesting. I was doing research on the under coating. Some got it from the factory like my car did. Mine also was treated after in spots. The undercoating from the factory seems to be done after the underside paint and before the top coat was applied. You see the over spray on top of the coating. While around the spare tire well it is painted under the undercoating
  3. Honestly just buy some used ones, they are not that expensive
  4. AIt's metal, I take it out and polish out the rust first. If you plan to use LED's you can get a reflective material at the hobby store they use to skin gas powered model planes. If you want you could have it re-plated but you could buy new set for that price
  5. The mast will come apart the tip of the antenna is screwed on take that off and you can slide the attenna apart. The threads are small so use a little heat on the tip to loosen a little. I took mine apart to replace the string see the link.
  6. Use good penitrating oil not WD-40. I would avoid heat the cord or the guides might melt
  7. First thing I'd do with the mast is soak it in mineral, penitrating, or hydrolic oil for a week or two. The base could use it also. The reason is look at the plastic rod and how grimy that is, that goes up into the antenna so on the inside it looks like that. Once you take the mast off and the tip of the mast you slide the sections apart verycarefully. If you need to for cleaning, don't if you can get it clean without pulling it apart it is fradgel.
  8. Gav240z search a post I did if you need to replace the cable that raises the mast. I figured out how to use trimmer string to make a replacement
  9. If you can please remember me, or if I sent you the dash to do it like factort. I'd like to install myself but I understand. I also be think dyi c I old cut to size.
  10. So would you sell me one with the extra material?
  11. Bob, Tarriff charges are normally included
  12. I'd go that route and cut it. it is my fault if I cut too much off. I'd use the old dash pad as reference.
  13. Bob , My complaint is I wanted it to have material to wrap around the frame like originally done. If it had that I would have bought it.
  14. Interestingly I just went out to take a look. Mine was painted as stated, some spots on the left bracket the blue was chipped it was black below. So it looks like they mounted the bracket to the engine before painting the engine because I found blue paint in the seem between the rubber mount also but not between the bracket and the mount. Also no paint between the mount and the block. Hope that helps someone
  15. Confirmed, jfa is correct Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
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