Jump to content

loudoun

Member
  • Posts

    125
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About loudoun


  • User Group: Member


  • Member ID: 29942


  • Rank: CollaborZator


  • Content Count: 125


  • Content Post Ratio: 0.04


  • Reputation: 9


  • Achievement Points: 1,106


  • Member Of The Days Won: 0


  • Joined: 01/31/2015


  • Been With Us For: 3343 Days


  • Last Activity:


  • Currently:


Clubs

Contact

  • Map Location
    Fayetteville, NC

Recent Profile Visitors

2,775 profile views

loudoun's Achievements

CollaborZator

CollaborZator (7/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

9

Reputation

  1. I have a 12/70 car that is having a serious rear brake issue. Here is the background. I have an early 2/71 parts car (still lots of Series 1 pieces) that I removed the suspension from, had sandblasted and then powder coated. As I removed suspension pieces from the12/70, I replaced with the refreshed pieces and torques to spec. At the same time, I rebuilt the halfshafts, replaced and greased the u-joints, replaced and greased all bushings, replaced shocks and springs (Koni yellows and Eibach springs), replaced all bearings, and packed the hubs with fresh grease. The last piece of the puzzle are the rear brakes. I replaced the pads, added rubber new brake lines, bled the system. and put the original aluminum drums back on. I did not replace the cylinders as the old ones looks OK and are prohibitive to replace unless I swap lines and go over to the 73 ones. I also did not replace either the master cylinder or rebuild the booster. I ran the car for a block and heard the most god-awful grinding noise. I bought it back home and parked it. The drums had a hard time coming off (each time actually). The E-brake also will not hold. Today I replaced the drums with new steel ones, and worked the e-brake to self adjust, I seemed to work for a bit (always more than 4 clicks) but then did not. I ran the car and the noise was just as awful. Even the neighbors noticed it! I ran it less than a block and brought it home. It sounded like metal on metal grinding. I only get the noise the when the wheel has weight on it and is going forward. In reverse, or when the wheel is spun while jacked up, there are no issues. Any advice for what to do next?
  2. I will check. I have wanted to get after it this weekend, but it is just too hot outside!
  3. All, I have replaced my stock 240Z (12/70) springs with Eibach springs and Koni yellow shocks from MSA. I powder coated all suspension components, replaced all bushings, the steering racks, and am running 15 inch tires. The front tires (exact same wheel/tire combo) never rubbed prior to the install. However, they do now in a hard turn. I have not had the steering aligned. Any suggestions on what to do? Thanks!
  4. I checked, but it seems like Rockauto no longer offers rubber bushings.
  5. Thanks to all for the comments. That is a good bit to think about. I already have the Prothane in hand and this will just be an occasional commuter/weekend car. Where do you all suggest for the rubber bushings? Any good links that you all would recommend for how to do the subframe mod? Thanks guys!
  6. I am replacing the bushings/shocks/springs on my 12/70 car with Prothane, Eibachs and Koni yellows. Since I had a 2/71 parts car, I thought it might be easier to just prep that suspension and replace that of the 12/70 with refurbished parts (plug and play!). As I go, I will replace the ball joints and steering rack. I plan on sandblasting the old suspension and either powdercoating, painting, or using KBS rust sealer. For those that have done it, what method did you use and were you happy with the results? Any tips for someone who has not done this before?
  7. I had the garage door channels extended so that the garage doors rolled back closer to the ceiling than standard.
  8. I have two Bendpak 4 posts, turning my 2 car garage into a 4 car garage. I only have 10 foot ceilings, so I cannot put one of my International Scouts in the garage and have a car on the lift. It works fine with 240Zs up and Miatas below.
  9. It is time to delve into learning to weld and replace floor pans/frame rails on some of my 240Zs. I have a rotisserie that I picked up locally as part of a trade, and now is the time to look for a welder. I am looking at the Millermatic 211 as a possibility, and a one-year old one is for sale locally. I wanted to ask you guys with welding experience (especially if you have a Miller 211): is this a good machine to learn to weld on and can you 'grow' with it as you learn, or will you be looking for another machine down the road. I have a spare parts body to practice on before I touch a project car. Thanks!
  10. Thank you both. I knew there had to be an authoritative thread out there on this. I would rather rebuild and save if possible.
  11. I need to either rebuild or replace the steering rack in a late 70 build Series 1 car. I have a 2/71 parts car that I can rob the rack from to rebuild without putting mine out of commission. However, is there an online tutorial for this and a rebuild kit, or is it recommended that I find a replacement rebuilt/new rack? Thanks in advance.
  12. Is there a good source that details what stock radios came in 240zs and when? Thanks!
  13. That is one from a spare that I had off a parts car. Thanks for the links I will take a look. I did have to put the door back together for a car show. I robbed the window roller off another car, as it was non-existent on the one I was working on. That seems to have done the trick for now.
  14. Zed Head. Here you go. I agree, pics help. The screwdriver is pointing to it.
  15. Thanks Patcon. Maybe my search skills are poor, but I cannot find the post.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.