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ericjump

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About ericjump


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  • Joined: 12/28/2014


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ericjump last won the day on April 28 2015

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  1. I'm just about finished restoring my 71 (2-1971) 240, the center section of my rear bumper is bad dented, does anyone have a center section, or a whole rear bumper for sale or trade? Also need rubbers for rear bumper and windshield wiper arms. Thanks, ericjump@aol.com
  2. <script src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/770ebb07/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js" type="text/javascript"> </script> Problem fixed! My pulley has multiple "noches " on it, I got #1 on TDC, and marked the pulley, lined it up with "0" on the indicator on the engine, pulled the distributor and marked where the shaft was (purple mark on gasket, and the shaft), here's where having a little help really helped, dropped the sway bar and the oil pump while my buddy held the top of the distributor/oil pump shaft, he then lowered it just enough to disengage from the crank gear, turned it one tooth and pulled it back up. I slipped the oil pump up (at a slight angle) so it would engage the shaft and then turned it so the bolt holes lined back up. Torqued the oil pump bolts, got the sway bar bolts back in, reinstalled distributor and the timing is right on the money. 5 Degrees BTDC and the timing marks on the distributor line up exactly! First picture shows where the shaft was (purple mark on gasket, and shaft) and where it was after the repositioning. 2nd picture shows the timing marks with timing set to 5 degrees BTDC. Thanks for your help everyone. Ericjump <script src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/770ebb07/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js" type="text/javascript"> </script>
  3. I'm having trouble getting my timing marks lined up. Recent rebuild of my 71 240, original distributor, I got #1 cylinder up on TDC, made a mark on the crank pulley at the 0 mark on the timing indicator on the engine. When I run it and check it with the timing light I have to remove the hold down bolt on the distributor to get the timing to line up at 5 degrees BTDC. The indication is that it is WAY retarded (off the scale) Here's my question: Since the indication is so far off could the distributor/oil pump shaft be off a tooth? If so how do I fix it? I know the shaft comes out the bottom of the timing chain cover, can I drop the oil pump, drop the shaft, turn it a tooth and reinsert it? Thanks for your help, Ericjump
  4. Here is a picture of the spring I replaced in the 240 transmission,and the tool I made to remove the spring, it solved my popping out of third (into neutral) problem. This is a easy fix and would recommend it to anyone who has this problem, the springs are cheap and it only takes minutes to complete. Thanks again for the help. Ericjump
  5. Timing problem: Engine runs great, I made a mark on the pulley at 0 degrees (#1 cylinder at TDC). I can't get the timing (with the timing light) to the recommended (5 degrees BTDC) without severely retarding the timing, (I have to take the bolt out of the distributor and turn it further) to get it to read 5 degrees. Here's my question: Could the distributor/oil pump shaft be one tooth out of time so the indicator is so far off? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance Ericjump
  6. Springs are installed, problem Fixed! Installed the springs in the 3/4th and Reverse housings (couldn't reach the 1/2nd bolt) and that fixed the problem of it popping out of 3rd. Thanks so much for your help. I'll install the 1/2nd next time I have the console/shifter boot off. I made a little hook to remove the springs, (Remember the hook has to go inside the spring to remove it). I's post a picture but can't figure out how to do it. Thanks again. Ericjump
  7. OK, after making sure the bolts holding the rear end to the mustache bar were tight, and ordering new strut insulators, I dug into the rear struts to see what was causing my "Clunk" in the suspension. It was only happening when I went over bumps, nothing on accelerating or decelerating. Here's what I found: I replaced the shocks (stock shocks from Black Dragon) when I rebuilt the suspension, after I removed the strut insulator and the spring, I grabbed the shock rod and it rattled around in the strut housing. I don't know how I missed this when I assembled them. The new shock came with new gland nuts and the instructions said to use the new nuts. After screwing the glad nut down there was defiantly some play between the shock and the gland nut. So here's the fix! I got a large washer that fit into the gland nut, drilled out the center so it would fit over the shock shaft and screwed the gland nut on, amazing the play was gone! I added a "glug" of motor oil to the strut before installing the shock, put it all together and the clunk is gone. Repeat on other side. Thanks for the help with the elusive "Clunk" A little advice for anyone who is replacing shocks, remove the emergency brake cable before you start, (this will eliminate having to do it while supporting the strut with your knee), remove the brake line where the hard line hits the body and rubber line (same reason), support the strut with a floor jack and lower it down until the strut can swing down out of the shock tower. On reassembly reverse the process (with the floor jack), when the 3 studs won't line up with the holes in the top of the shock tower put a socket down through the center hole in the shock tower and turn clockwise( Tightening the nut) until they line up, jack the strut back up into place attach with washers and nuts.
  8. Does the large adjustment (nut and screw) on the rack where the steering shaft comes in have anything to do with removing play from the rack?
  9. I put 'er up on jack stands and tightened the wizz out of the bolts holding the differential to the mustache bar, took 'er out for a drive and no difference, still the clunky clunk clunk. So I ordered a pair of strut mount insulators, figured while I have the struts out I might as well replace the original ones, they looked good but you know how that goes. I'll let you know how it comes out. Other things I have learned from reading the forum: Check the gland nut is tight and that the shock is held firmly in the strut housing, and that the spring spacer is in place under the strut mount insulator! Wish me luck and thanks for the advise. Ericjump
  10. I have just replaced the strut cartridges, the car wasn't drivable before I did the suspension work, so I have nothing to compare it to. In all my reading, I think I have narrowed it down to: #1: Loose bolt/nuts on the rear end to mustache bar, #2: strut cartridges that are not snug in the strut housings, #3: Worn out/ broken strut mount insulator. I'm going after the rear end/mustache bar nuts/bolts first since I won't have to borrow a spring compressor to that. Thanks for the help, any other thought would be appreciated Ericjump
  11. Outstanding pixtures! It sure helps us "New" guys visualize that you're doing. Thanks Ericjump
  12. I just finished going through everything suspension on my 71 240, I'm amazed that almost everything came out great, everything but... when I drive over a bump, or uneven ground I get a "clunking sound". Sounds like it is coming from the right rear shock tower, I removed the wheel, put a 2x4 under the drum and pried up on the drum sure enough it sounds like it is coming from the top of the shock/strut assembly. Here's my question, should I replace the strut mount insulator (page 43, #51, Black dragon catalog), or should I look elsewhere, and should I go ahead and replace both sides? They are 44 years old? Thanks for the advice Eric
  13. EuroDat: Thanks, that clears it up, just wanted to make sure what I was doing was the right thing. I'm ordering the springs today and will give you a blow - by - blow when I finish. Zed Head: I was always taught to ask if you weren't sure, especially in my line of work Pictures coming. Eric
  14. This is for EuroDat, thanks very much for your help in resolving this problem I'm having, your help (without berating me) has been very helpful. As I understand it I have a F4W71A type A 4 speed I understand that the three caps that I need to remove to gain access to the detent springs are on the right side of the tranny (2 on the right side, 1 on the top). The springs (P/N: 32830-20100) are available for 58 cents a piece from Nissan. I'm assuming all 3 (one for 1st and 2nd, one for 3rd and 4th, and one for reverse) are the same P/N Would you recommend replacing all three, or just the worn one? The only figure (TM-14, labeled, Inter Lock Balls and Check Balls) that i find in the service manual is not very clear where the springs are. Is there another figure that shows them more clearly? Or can you help me out as to their location? Again, thanks for your help, I hope to have many years of enjoyable motoring in my Z.
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