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AMelbye

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About AMelbye


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  • Member ID: 29541


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  • Joined: 09/09/2014


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  • Age: 39


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  1. I agree. I asked for better pictures of the under carriage, but the new ones were no better. I also got no answer to why the inside of the engine bay is black, on a car that is said to be unrestored and originally yellow. I must admit that I could have done a better job at asking the right questions, and should definitely have rejected the deal much earlier. I've learned a lot from this and I'll keep looking. Thanks again!
  2. Hi, sorry about being silent for 2 days now, when it was over I needed a break from it all. You wouldn't believe the shitstorm I got when I made it completely clear that this deal was off. I've never had anything like it. As long as that is true, I have nothing to lose. The ebay ad is here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AWESOME-240Z-240-z-JDM-Classic-Low-Mile-Collector-AC-EXCELLENT-TRADE-/161461691197?viewitem&sspagename=ADME%3AX%3ARTQ%3AMOTORS%3A1123&forcerRptr=true&item=161461691197&nma=true&si=BNXnr8jembkF7rv5g%252F2QEJoJ2ro%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 You'll find his name by the phone number in the item description, or PM me and I'll gladly let you know. Googling his phone number will also find some other listings of this car and some others. Please do not post his name or user name in this thread; do spread the word, but not in this thread. If he were to google his own name or user name, I don't want this thread in his search results. Like you said: This guy has most likely sold to someone on this forum before, and might even be a registered member. Judging his ebay feedback, it looks like this guy is honest most of the time, at least with the deals he does through eBay the proper way. I'm not 100% sure if he was trying to pull a scam on me, or if he did these very alarming moves by mere stupidity. Just keep this in mind. Blue: When I do get back to looking for another Z I will let you know. Right now I need a break, I'm exhausted. Again thank you all so much for your help! This forum is definitely the best car-related forum I have come across. The amount and quality of your responses is simply astonishing, every time!
  3. I really want a 240Z, but at this point the deal has gone sour for me. It seemed to be a great deal, but after the last few actions of the seller I'm not ready to do any sort of deal with him, regardless of the state of the car. I simply don't trust him. I'm afraid I'll have to find another one, and the next time I'll probably come over to inspect it myself and meet the seller in person, this has been far too nerve-wrecking for me Thanks for your help advice, it's very much appreciated!
  4. someone just told me that if the seller fails to get the agreed amount from another buyer, he can make me liable for covering the difference. Is this true?
  5. djwarmer, thanks for your fast reply! He claims to have sold 100s of cars, and to have owned about 100 Z's through the years. He should be very familiar with the business around buying and selling cars. He also has a good feedback rating on ebay. However, this sale is done outside of eBay, so there is no monitoring or any way for me to inform others if I get caught in a scam. Although I want to trust the guy, I simply can't, based on the way he seems to deliberately fail to deliver the documentation I'm asking for. When I Googled his name I found a relatively famous actor and film producer, but it might be someone else by the same name. When googling the company I get nothing. I found the car on eBay, but I was not the high bidder. It was (is) also listed on a lot of other sites. I was in touch with him prior to the end of auction, and he contacted me afterwards saying that the high bidder didn't want the car. For all I know he might have sold it to someone else. I have already decided that I don't want to do the deal. When he removed his name in print, then blatantly lied about how it happened, I lost the confidence I had in him. The part that scares me here is that from a lawyers point of view, I have agreed to buy the car, then changed my mind a whole week later, at the point where I was about to pay. This because it took the seller a whole week to get to a printer so that he could print the contract and sign it. I had never expected him to **** around with the contract the way he did... Is it absolutely certain that I can pull out at this point without losing more than my deposit?
  6. I'm about to import a 240z from California to Norway. I've been in long discussions with the seller, I've agreed to buy the car for $10.000, and have paid a $500 deposit. However, before transferring the remainder of $9.500 I asked him to sign a contract for my peace of mind. He then returned the contract signed with a completely incomprehensible name, and he had removed his name in print. He's also asking for the money to be transferred to a company bank account, possibly his own company, but certainly not his personal account. I highly suspect that he's trying to rip me off, and feel very strongly against going through with this. I told him that based on this I can no longer trust him. He sent a copy of his drivers license and a newly signed contract where he's written his name in block capitals, but still very hard to read at best. The signature on his drivers license and on the contract are so different, it might not even be the same person. I do not trust this man at all. He also made up an excuse about the Norwegian language document must have made his name in print disappear. A blatant lie. He's now saying that I'm committing an act of fraud by cancelling the deal at this point. What should I do? I don't care about the deposit, I just want out of the deal safely. Can he rightfully sue me if I cancel the deal at this point? I have not yet signed the contract, but did give him the impression that I would pay as soon as I had the signed contract in hand. I hope you can help, I'm more than slightly worried!
  7. Exactly what I did NOT want to hear However, isn't the 240z more fun than the 280z? Just my guess, as it's lighter and (said to be) more agile. I certainly would if I could, but I'm afraid that's not an option for me :/ This is really my main concern with using a broker / hiring an agent. I believe most will be able to check for rust, and verify that the engine and interior is ok. I however don't trust them to judge suspension and steering, simply due to how american cars handle, and a probable lack of curvy roads to challenge the car. If using an agent, perhaps I should look for a rust free car with a good engine, reasonable interior and calculate with rebuilding the suspension and steering? Going over to get the car myself is definitely a good option. Thanks for all your good advice in this regard! Still, on the other hand, I'm not a mechanic, I've not owned a car i most of life (in Oslo driving is very impractical, and I'll never want or need a daily driver), and doing an inspection on my own might not reveal all the problems with a car. In addition to this, I'll always be in danger of falling in love with a car, impairing my judgement. Over here we have something called an NAF test. NAF is an independent company that does a thorough check on a car (120 check points, or so). Is there anything like this in the US, and is it common practise for a buyer to take a car through such inspection before buying? I think you're right. Which price range to you think I should be looking at? I've seen quite a few nice looking 240Z's on ebay for around 12-13.000 the last few weeks, most of them buy-it-now, with the option of making a "best offer".
  8. Fastwoman: I wish I had a thing for the P1800, volvo parts are probably much easier to source in my area. It's a gorgeous car, but not for me. Back to the Miata: I did a quick search, and the mx5 is suprisingly cheap over here. About half the price of a Z in the same condition. Very cheap, and lots of fun/$. But, even though the Z is twice as expensive, the Z also has its advantages: Being 30 years+ means cheap insurance. the miata will cost at least $1000 pr year to insure (sports cars are expensive to insure over here), whilst the Z will cost less than $200 pr year, as it's a veteran. Road tax for the mx5 is $475 pr year, $75 pr year for the Z. I think in a 5 years perspective these costs will have pretty much made up for the price difference. If you then start looking at the aestethics, the Z wins easily. As for driveability and fun, I have no clue which is better, as I haven't had a chance to try them. moelk thanks for the offer, I'll check out some ads from holland and france and let you know I do however suspect that those markets are more lurative for a swede. Norway not being part of the EU means 25% import tax regardless of which country I import from. I'm currently in contact with a Norwegian import agency specializing in importing cars from the US. They have about 20 agents spread across the country. They charge 7500NOK for handling everything, including inspection of the car, haggling for a lower price, taking the car in for repairs or upgrades then shipping it to Norway (shipping cost is on top). For that price though, I think I could just fly over and sort it out myself. I'm really not sure how to go about this...
  9. First I have to say I'm really overwhelmed by the amount of response I've got in such short time! Thanks! You're awesome! jfa.series1: Thanks for your detailed list. This is very useful, even though I don't plan to do a full-on restauration job like you have, I'll definitely find use for this! FastWoman: The current market for the 240z in Norway is close to non-existent. I've seen one for sale in the last year, but it can take another year or more before the next one shows up. I'll have to import, and the US seems to be the best place I've considered a few other cars, but the 240z simply stands out to me. It's probably the best looking car I know of, the L-series engine sounds great, it's simple to repair, it's pretty affortable, and compared to other cars of it's time it's said to be reliable. If it's reasonably cheap to maintain as well, that would only add to my list. The main down side is having to keep it garaged all winter so it won't rust. The e-type is beautiful, but it costs a fortune. The jaguar xjs is affordable, but very thirsty and probably much less fun to drive than the z. The mx5 is a good option, and I'm still keeping it in mind. The Z looks so much better though! Hardway: Like you suggest, I'll be looking for a car in the best condition possible, within my budget. My budget is defined by what I can justify spending on a weekend car. If buying a $10.000 car will come out cheaper than a $6.000 car in a 5 year perspective, then that's what I will do. moelk: Thanks for your input! I'll definitely try to load the car up with parts, however, what parts I'll need depends on the car I get, so I guess won't know until I've found the car... When you bought your Z, did you have your car inspected by a 3rd party, did you go there yourself, or did you just trust the seller?
  10. Hi, I'm currently looking to buy a 240z, in the $5.000 to $10.000 price range. This often means dealing with some repairs, and I'm wondering how much time and money (in parts) it will take to do common repairs to these cars. Consider that I'm not a professional mechanic, but a fast learner. The only related experience I have is rebuilding the engine and suspension on my motor cycle when I was 16. (14 years ago) I'm just listing the first repairs that comes to mind. How much time and money would it take to repair/rebuild the following?: front suspension steering rear suspension seats engine gear box clutch differential brakes brake lines fuel delivery rubber seals around doors/windows/rear hatch common rust repairs? Hopefully this will make it easier to judge which cars I should consider buying, and which issues I should avoid dealing with. Thanks in advance!
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