bhbarr

Hi Guys! I need advice on my left rear turn signal diagnostic. The left rear turn signal quit working. All the bulbs are fine. The left front signal works fine. Both right turn signals front and rear work fine. ALL the hazards work including the left rear. BOTH rear brake lights work. HOWEVER, When the brakes are applied the left brake light goes out when the left turn signal is activated and there is no flashing signal. With the right turn signal activated and the brakes applied, the right signal flashes normally over riding the brake light. I read a couple of threads and my diagnosis is; - Turn Signal Flasher is ok - Hazard Flasher is ok - Brake over ride switch is ok I read a thread that stated the column switch as individual contacts for the front signal and rear signal. My gut tells me the switch is the culprit, in particular the rear signal contact. Thoughts? Advice? Comments? Thanks in advance!

Great info guys! So now I'm looking for a close ratio Z or ZX 5 speed and a 3.90 diff (out of a Subaru WRX STi) Thanks! BB

I have searched the forums and I must be an idiot because I cant find a thread answering my questions. 1) What are the 5 Speed PART NUMBERS that fit a 1972 240Z 2) Where are part numbers located on the transmission? 3) What is the most current information? 4) Will 300zx 5 Speed fit?

And I cut and pasted this from a thread I cant find... Thanks to member for the original post! FUEL TANK VENT LINE REPLACEMENT As part of the slow refresh of my red '71 240Z I knew I needed to replace all the fuel hoses, especially the big ones that go to the expansion tank in the right rear quarter panel. I'd read all the instructions for saving money by using generic fuel-rated hose and inserting sleeves in them to keep them from kinking and such. But since I am more than a little reluctant to pollute my red car's originality, and also because I really didn't feel like messing with bending and inserting sleeves, I decided to bite the bullet and buy factory hoses. As a side benefit, I figured I could advise others on whether this was as good an idea as it seemed to me at the time. So now that it is done, here are the part numbers I used, and my comments. I got mine at club discount from my local dealer, but your dealer may not offer that. So I included prices from NissanParts.cc for comparison. (Prices current as of 1 May 2007.) 17239-E4601, $27.15. Smaller diameter hose, runs from expansion tank to top right side of the fuel tank. About 3 feet long. Has a preformed double bend at the tank end. This hose is apparently actually correct for '73 240Z, but works OK on '70-72 cars as well. (Correct '70-72 hose is NLA.) The double bend is not quite the same as the one that was on my car, but once pulled into place seemed to work well. Arne's advice - RECOMMENDED, but not absolutely required - The preformed bends do help for this hose. You might be able to get by with generic for this one, but the bend at the tank end might kink some on generic hose. Since this one is affordable, I'd do it. 17235-E4601, $53.20. Large diameter hose with several preformed bends, including a 180 degree bend at the tank end. About 4 feet long. Goes from the expansion tank through the floor to the back of the fuel tank on the right side. Correct for '70-73, fits perfectly. Arne's advice - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - You need that 180 but would need to sleeve a generic hose to do it. The price of this hose is not that bad considering the three custom bends. Buy it. 17238-E4602, NLA as of 9/09. Large diameter horseshoe shaped hose, less than 2 feet long. Runs from expansion tank to fitting on filler neck. Correct for '70-73. Fits fine. Arne's advice - SOMEWHAT RECOMMENDED, not absolutely required - You can do this one fairly easily with generic, especially if you used a slightly longer hose than normal so that the bend was gentle. And now that it's NLA, you'll probably have to... 17236-E4601, $88.43. Medium diameter long hose. About 6, maybe 7 feet long. No bends at all. Runs from left side of tank up through the floor, across and into the bottom of the expansion tank. Correct for '70-73. Fits fine. Arne's advice - NOT RECOMMENDED - Unless you are a fetishist about original parts, use generic here. This is the most expensive hose from Nissan, but it has NO preformed bends. So there's no advantage to the factory hose on this one. I also used 18" of 3/16" ID fuel hose (return line), 18" of 5/16" ID fuel hose (fuel supply line), and 4 feet of 1/4" ID fuel hose (evap tank to flow valve line) to do all the other hoses there while the tank was out. In addition, I got replacement grommets and hose sealing sleeves from Banzai. The hose sleeves could be replaced with heat shrink, but I felt the real thing wasn't all that expensive. My grommets were still soft, but the replacement hose from the top of the expansion tank to the metal line that goes to the flow valve on the left front inner fender (the 4 feet of 1/4" hose) was a smaller external diameter than stock. One of the grommets I got from Banzai was apparently intended to deal with this difference and worked great at that spot.

This may help too...

I replaced mine earlier this year. Napa, MSA and my local Nissan dealer had everyting I needed. I worked with the Napa parts guy to find a 180 degree tube to fit in the vent line to complete the bend.

I installed the MSA belts and WESCO belts and was not satisfied with either. The problem is they rub uncomfortably on my neck. I am 5'9". I am making my own creation using stock buckle sides and bits an pieces of the other kits. If I cant create a solution, I will go back to stock lap belt and shoulder combo.

The link siteunseen mentions is very helpful. I installed mine last month. An MSA part also. It took considerable fiddling with a heat gun to get a snug fit around all the gauges, but it is possible. My center gauges were "off" as well. I had misalignment on the glove box button, but a dremmel and heat made it better. The fit around the glove box was tight. I used more heat to form it to the original dash. I fitted and re-fitted it 3 times before gluing it in place. Then after it was set, I tweeked the gauges and glovebox areas again with heat and pressure. Overall I'm happy, but this is not a "direct fit" part.

What cam are you using? that could be part of the flat spot issue?

Thanks Mike! This solves my problem! Long live the Z brotherhood.

Well, I cleaned up my interior and installed a new dash cap. The problem is... reinstalling the center heat/vent controls. Specifically.. I know the longest cable goes to the fresh air vent flap behind the blower motor... in my infinite wisdom, I didn't take a picture and now cant figure out how it goes back together... simple you say... well I disassembled the "L" shaped bracket and "V" shaped spring, like a dummy. How are they oriented to the pivot? A picture or diagram would be great!

I'll be there Friday - Sunday! 1972 NC tag on a lime green '72.