kenmataya

Hello all, I'm looking for a good seatbelt refurbisher - I need new webbing installed on existing hardware. Anybody have a good vendor? Thanks, Ken

Hello all, Anybody use the AC delco oil pressure sensor? I went thru a couple of the brass ones with no luck, my mechanic gave me an old 1600 sensor which worked great, but now its leaking - need to replace. Thanks, Ken

the actuator arm was loose on the bottom of the barrel - all good!

yes, you can, thanks. Took off the panel ( not so easy since i have a speaker box... ) and sure enough, the screw on the bottom of the lock was backed out ( explaining why it had been hard to open ). problem solved.

went to open my hatch and won't open! it is unlocked..... its always been a hard push to get it open, but won't open a tall now. any hints/advice?

Thanks everyone for your help. Ken

problem solved. The discontinuity was inside the spade connector at the ballast resistor! I cut the spade connector off to start tracking the B/W line back into the harness ( i untaped the whole front of the harness ), and i thought "hmm let me check continuity on the bare wire". Sure enough, there it was. I had checked that both wires ( one to the pertronix ) were tight, but somehow the current wasnt flowing into the spade. So, put a new spade connector on and voila........ no clue how that works.

the switch is getting power - it runs in "start" position and also when i connect the red jumper below. i've checked switch to ballast - no continuity. cant see anything wrong with b/w wire, but i cant see most of it. anybody know which fuse b/w wire connects to at fusebox? i could check continuity there to narrow down the issue.

pulled the b/w wire from the ignition switch, connected directly to battery - same issue car runs in start position but not run position, so its not the switch. OK, added a jumper (red) from ig switch to ballast and car runs fine. so i've definitely got a bad lead between the ig switch and the ballast resistor - any clues/hints/ideas where that might happen? Or does anyone know where the line splits? ( as a bonus there are two indentical b/w leads heading back from the coil! ) So, i know what the problem is, i just dont' know where the problem is!

petty sure it isnt, there's no continuity between the b/w wire at the switch and the b/w wire at the ballast. I can run power directly to the b/w wire at the switch to test it tho.

OK, ran a lead directly from the battery to the blk/wht terminal on the ballast resistor - car runs. still not continuity between the b/w at the switch to the ballast terminal. So, i've got a bad line from the switch to the ballast - any ideas where that might be??

pulled the steering cover and pulled the ignition switch plug - tested continuity: green/white - closed circuit - good BLack/white coil and ballast - shows resisitance for just a second then open line...... ?? broken wire?

now its not running again - pos coil is .6V in on position. checking the schematic, it looks like the pertronix is taking power from the line running into the ballast resistor. Here's the schematic

checked the schematic - my tach works intermitantly.....

coil is not even attached to the ballast....