Patcon

As an aside I read all 100+ comments in that BaT thread. Was really fascinating. I suspected that was TonyD stirring the pot. I also found it interesting that many commenters suggested that Japanese classics would never be worth what you put into them for restoration. I suspect if you had suggested that a 240Z would sell for $300k+ you would have been laughed out of the space. It was also interesting that nobody seemed to understand the uniquity of the very early cars. So much for the experts...

We were at the car show at Zcon. I believe @gnosez posed the question. He asked about the lead at the quarter to roof joint. Matsuo San was a guest speaker and ViP at that Zcon. He said it was to let the car "breathe". We suggested "flex" and he agreed. He said if the car couldn't flex there it would flex at the windshield. He implied that the A pillar could break or the windshield could come out.

It looks great! Is the Eastwood polish sort of pink tan too?

Yes, that is what Matsuo San told us at the car show.

Yeah, that guy does meticulous work!

What characteristics are you looking for? I have a box I can look through

I believe the spare wheel well is now available as a reproduction panel. With that deep rusting I would replace it. Especially on a car that has the potential high value that this car could have. https://resurrectedclassics.com/products/datsun-240z-280z-spare-tire-well https://zcardepot.com/products/spare-tire-well-sheet-metal-replacement-240z-260z-280z-70-76#

Im not sure I would use chemicals on the armature. I would probably just blow it out and wipe the brushes off. Might Scotch Brite the brushes. I would think degreaser would be fine in the motor case

That's a cool old caddy! Probably gets about 5mpg

That area is not normally an issue. Check the fresh air intake hat. It's under the cowl but can be seen from the passenger floor board looking up under the cowl. It is the more likely area to have issues. I had to remove the metal shield under my cowl to get access to work on mine and reseal around it.

Yes, red dot mirrors are an early car thing

It feels like the inference is the rubber. I held it down with clamps when I installed them. I should have installed the hatch instead

The thin metal plate is under the hinge. Just an optical illusion. I had considered removing the hatch and rubber boots. Cleaning them up. Reseal them but install the hatch to make sure they seat low enough. I really think mine had sealant on them when I removed the old ones. Sort of the wrong direction but I think it's gonna have to be done.

Here are the quarter windows This one looks pretty good. This is the main flaw in the other one Hopefully this corner will settle in eventually. The good news is I can't see it from the drivers seat! I polished the other door glass yesterday. The is Cerium Oxide. You have to make a slurry. It cleans it up pretty good but donesn't really remove big flaws. You can see the line of scratching right at the belt weatherstrip. I filled the differential. The hand pump blew an end off at one point and blew that stinky stuff all over me!! I got the hatch strut on yesterday too. It looks really nice @jfa.series1! I have a problem with the hatch hinges though. When I lower the hatch the hinge hits the ruber hinge cups. I am thinking there is too much sealant under them. I can force the hatch down the last few inches but you can tell the hinges don't move nay more. Can some body vouch for the hinges being supposed to clear all the way closed. When I lower the hinges down I can't get the hatch to flush up with the roof because of this interference.

So sorry Mike! Cancer sucks...