tlorber

I thought I would post my recent experience with headlights. I bought some LED lights from this company https://vintagecarleds.com/7-inch-round-headlights/. I've been looking at LED's for a while for both my Z and my roadster. They installed on the Z perfectly, and it is amazing to be able to see at night. The best things about these are 1) they have glass lenses and 2) they are plug and play-no cutting or filing to get them to fit either of these cars. Since they draw about half the amperage, they put less stress on the circuitry. I've become so accustomed to "Some assembly required" that I'm genuinely surprised when an after market part fits with no fuss. This company had a black Friday sale that was 20% off, but I believe they have other sales throughout the year. I will be ordering a second set for the other car (VC35000). To be clear, I have no affiliation with this company, but I wanted to provide my experience in case any of you folks may be looking for a headlight upgrade. I've received a lot of useful information here.

Just a quick follow up in case someone is in the same position. I WAS able to drop the tranny without removing the header. I filed down the ear on the transmission to give a bit more room, and then ground a bit more of it off once it was out of the car. This will provide a bit more space upon installation.

Thanks for the input.

Thanks. So to clarify, when you install the motor + header, that is WITHOUT the tranny, and then you put it in afterward from underneath, correct?

Hey folks, I have a single question and didn't feel it warrants it own thread so I'm scabbing onto this one. I've had a MSA 6-1 header on my 240 for 7 years or so. I need to remove the tranny (ZX 5 speed) and I'm wondering if I can get it out without removing the header. Has anyone here done that before? Pulling the header means intake mani, carbs, new gasket etc. etc. and probably triples the amount work. I have a lift I can use to get the car off the ground. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Never mind, I think I found it. For reference, the Seal P/N is 32858-U6702 the O Ring # is 32710-14600. The local Nissan parts desk does not stock them but says they can order and have next day. Hope this helps anyone else in the same predicament.

Patcon, did you end up replacing that rubber seal? I believe it is called a striking rod oil seal. I'm looking for a part number. It looks like I will need to drop my tranny since either that seal or the o-ring is leaking. Thanks for any input.

I know this is an old post, and I'm late to the party but I just saw the show tonight. Kind of fun to watch given the relevance. I was kind of surprised they got that high a price-especially here in So Cal. Maybe Z's are finally following European sports car pricing. Could be time to sell the spare?

Your turn signal switch probably needs to be opened up, cleaned and serviced (there are posts on the site addressing that). Before doing that, here is some low hanging fruit you can try: 1) Change out the mechanical flasher (thermal flasher) for an electronic one. It will draw less juice and be more consistent. 2) The Hazard switches are notoriously finicky. Make sure the contacts are clean on the inside of the switch, On my '73 the current all seems to run through that switch. Your'70 may be the same way.

This Rotary lift is 10'9" at the highest point. I bought it used for $2,500 installed. It would be possible to either cut it down a bit, or recess the feet into the slab, if you are only talking 12" or so. However, if you only have 8' ceilings that route would not be viable.

I'm going to throw another $0.02 here-not pertaining to the above seals, but another one. I rebuilt my '82 ZX tranny a couple years ago, and everything still works well. However, when I bought the rebuild kit, it did not have the o-ring that goes around the shaft that selects the gears (the one that he shifter lever rides in up at the top of the tranny). I had to use the old one and it is now seeping. If I ever choose to deal with it, I will not only have to pull the tranny, but to crack it back open. Not a high priority at this point, but I'm just letting you know.

The K&N filter costs a,little more than a stock one but it is reusable after cleaning. So even if there is no improvement in performance, is is cheaper in the long run.

"But boy, can they fold a shirt." Andrew Dice Clay :>)

They are not "stamped" on, they are spot welded. My advice would be to drill a hole where the spot weld was (two of them) and then plug weld (fill in the holes) with a mig welder while having the bracket clamped to the bumper. Both surfaces must be ground down to clean, bare metal. You may be able to weld it without discoloration by hitting it with short bursts, but the functional aspect is more important that the cosmetic one. Absent of welding, you could try an epoxy like JB weld. You have a decent amount of surface area to bond to. This is not as permanent of a fix but it might suit your purpose.

The car looks good in the pics. I'm sure there was a lot of prep work involved. You can wet sand and buff out the orange peel if it is noticeable. Just don't sand through the color.