WDILL

Thanks! I have all new bolts and washers for the Diff, Drive Shaft and Half Shafts. I will take your advice on the sponge material in the cover vent.

I am ready to remount the Differential but need advice on what Thread Sealant, Perma-Lock or Anti-Seize that I should use on attaching the Rear Diff cover and bolts on reattaching Drive Shaft and Half Shafts.

I am having trouble finding bolts, nuts, and washers for my 1970 240Z (VIN 3435). I have tried Courtesy Nissan but get only 4 of 17 available. I am finishing the differential, drive shaft and half-shafts reassembly and reattachment to the car. Has anyone worked with www.partsfornissans.com. They show some of the parts available. I've tried the normal dealers and suppliers of 240Z parts. I have bought the MMS Accessories Inc. stainless steel fastener kit for the !970 240Z but MMS does not have a kit for the differential and rear suspension Is there any documents/files that give the descriptions of the part other that Hex Nut M10, etc. Any suggestions?

Bought the 240Z 15 Aug 1970. Traded it for a station wagon it in 1972 with second child on the way. Contacted by second owner 9/89 with offer to give me first choice to buy the car before he put it on the market. He contacted me thru the Air Force personnel system. I was in Shreveport , LA and he was in Dallas, TX. We went to Dallas the next weekend and paid him $3000 the same as I paid in 1970. Currently being restored. Wally Dill Bought Montgomery, Al and driven to Craig AFB Selma, AL. Original 85 miles. Craig AFB Craig AFB Marry Me! 30 Dec 1970

Differential question: See attached pictures. I'm cleaning the exterior of the diff and wonder if anyone knows what the numbers on the top and bottom mean. The first picture has 209 then 70 6 2/6 in a circle then @ T 22. The second has A, then 38811, the E4600, then B. 209 is parallel to the rear cover edge. I would like to put the info in the documentation I'm trying to keep on the restoration.

i replaced my ujoints last month and had the same problem of not getting enough room for the circlip. I took it apart and found that 2 of the bearings were in the bottom of the cap instead of standing along the wall. Put them back in place and had no problem inserting the circlips. Wally D.

I just received mine from Courtesy Nissa. I ordered it a week ago.

Outstanding! I can't wait to see it when you finish with it. If you are over my way call and stop by. I'm 15 miles north of Anniston on HYW 431 at the Trent Jones Silver Lakes Golf Course. Wally

I did not get to look under the car due to rain and the white stuff on top appeared to be where it had been sitting out in the sun for a long time. I believe the original engine is in the car since I saw the 2.8L in the garage along with the triple webers. The owner called me Wednesday evening since I left my card. He likes to talk about Z cars and has worked on them since the early 70's and his brother and father each own and work on them. I'm sure he would answer any questions about the car since he stated he would take $5000. Wally Dill

I saw this 240Z on a trip to northern Alabama and stopped to take pictures. The car is in running condition, has some rust around fuel door, dent in pax door, interior is clean and in good condition. I wasn't able to get pics of the engine bay. This guy has been working on or rebuilding Zs since the late 70s. He had several parts cars and extra parts. VIN 95163; 90,000 miles; Rebulit - Engine, clutch, brakes, all cylinders, New Goodyear tires. Everything works: lights, guages, wipers, radio, new heavy duty fuse box, all fluids recently changed. Asking $6000 but negotiable. Contact Ray at Rays Auto Restoration, 256-339-1077

Hello, I live between Gadsden and Anniston. I'm about 60% complete on restoration on VIN 3435 which is white with blue interior. There is an orange 240Z on 431 across from the flea markets and a yellow 240Z in Gadsden.

Got the quarter windows in with help from the wife. Finished putting fuel lines (cleaned and clear coated) and new brake lines . My hat is off to all those that have replaced fuel and brake lines with all the other items in place under the car. It was hard enough with just the engine and taransmission in. Cleaned and installed the assembly for the brake warning light. Next is finishing the brake booster and brake and clutch master cylinders installation then differential, half shafts and drive shaft refurb and installation.

Thanks for the last picture, it will help me put it back together. Does the inner chamber ever have brake fluid in it?

Blue, Thanks for the info. I had copied the part number as 46100-US200 from the schematic vs 46100-U5200. I have the one that was removed from my car during the tear down, but it was really dry and gummed up. I took it apart and cleaned all the parts but was not sure the switch would work. The image you attached will help me get it back together. I did pick up a couple of assemblies last weekend at a junk yard. I read in one thread that the unit was supposed to be replaced with a new one vs replacing parts per the work shop manual. I do have a couple of proportioning valves and three way connectors. Wally Dill