LeonV

I'm assuming all the sharp edges will be filleted before being sent out for production? Curious what the mass is as well?

I did a lot of writing on runner tuning over on HybridZ back when I had more time on my hands. The physics apply no matter the engine. Results are very dependent on setup, cam timing has a lot to do with it. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105783-ideal-intake-runner-taper/

Maybe my eyes are getting old but this looks awfully video-gamey to me 😉 They're pretty realistic these days: https://www.bsimracing.com/raceroom-nissan-300zx-gto-and-mustang-imsa-gto-previews/

I suspect it's because MSA wants you to spend more money on an expensive clutch. I run a 10lb Fidanza with an OEM 225mm clutch behind an L28 that makes about 200whp/185lb-ft. It's been in for nearly 8 years now with no issues. Engagement is buttery and the lighter flywheel really just requires quicker shift timing. The gearing and low-end torque of the L28 make taking off no problem, unless you have a numb left foot. I also run an 8lb flywheel + OEM clutch on my street/track S2000 with great results. It did make for a slight increase in NVH (gear rattle) and requires a bit more revs to get moving but its 4 cylinder engine generally has less inertia than the L6 and less torque so is more sensitive to flywheel mass. With that said, it's nothing but a joy to drive.

@spitz17 in case you might be interested 🙂

I recall using this to my advantage on my old car with Megajolt ignition. The larger offset ZX fan made room for the trigger wheel and sensor.

So you have tried cranking with foot-to-floor for 5-10 seconds? You should first check your fuel level. This is best done by removing one of the main jet stacks and measuring from the shelf down to the fuel. It should be no less than 25mm. When you do that, also record your main jet/etube/air jet as well as idle jet. What's your displacement and cam? My Z has no heat shield and no header wrap of any kind, I have no issues with hot starts although I typically crack the pedal a bit. This is typical of a carburetted car.

If you open the throttle fully and crank, will it eventually start? Say after 5 seconds of cranking with the pedal all the way down. If you open the hood before the hot restart, do you notice fuel dripping from the air horns? This sounds like a flooding issue either due to fuel siphoning, too rich of a mixture, or both. If the car restarts with the throttle floored, then we can look deeper into why it might be flooding.

I've been considering doing seats on mine for a while now although I don't want anything contemporary. The old-school Nissan comp seat is a no-go unfortunately, too small for me. I'd love to find a comfortable yet supportive and period-looking seat. Something like the Recaro PP Classic but with a more '70s feel rather than the '80s vibe those put out. I haven't come across anything that meets my criteria yet but admittedly, I haven't looked very hard.

Awesome. I just got back from AZ, imagine I'll be there fairly often. You still with Ford?

Jeff, it sounds like you're moving near some proving grounds... 🙂

These forums would get a lot more interesting if they became Zoom meetings. Although on second thought, I'm sure it would then quickly descend into what every webcam-based chat room eventually succumbs to... We're lucky to have people on a public forum with passion and knowledge which they are willing to share. People come from various backgrounds and cultures which is difficult to see behind a keyboard. If we all took things a bit more light-heartedly, we wouldn't get so offended all the time. I'm always up for a passionate debate as long as it's backed by clarity, fastidiousness, and humility. A lack thereof creates an incongruity in the discussion which, especially on the internet, can cause the other party to get defensive and petty. This either results in the other party (a) eventually putting their ego aside and realizing why the discussion went awry or (b) "stone the troll". YMMV

Thanks Jason. So to confirm, this will fit an Aluminum or cast iron housing? I do have both so this wouldn't be a deal breaker. Do you know whether the constituent parts to rebuild racks are readily available, e.g, bearings, seals, inner tie rods, boots, etc? Happy to do my own research but I figure you may have already done so. 🙂

To bring this one back, wheel offset plays a large role in low-speed steering loads, potentially more so than tire width or compound, since it controls scrub radius. A lower offset wheel, i.e. wheel center pushed outboard, will increase the lever arm between the contact patch and the steering axis. This will exacerbate the lifting effects of caster and kingpin offset. Additional weight over the axle will also contribute to an increase in steering loads. So this begs the question of whether the as-tested" 280Z wheels were lower offset than 240Z wheels. If the kingpin inclinations differ by even a degree between 240Z and 280Z, which the FSM's imply may be the case, then that could lead to significant increases in scrub in the 280Z's case.

Hi Jason, I'm very intrigued. The rack in my US-spec 260Z has some slop and I've wanted to go to a quicker ratio anyway. Is the 240 GBP price for a rack bar and pinion which I would then retrofit into my existing (updated cast-iron) housing? How are you ensuring the durability of the parts, what sort of validation testing is being done?