TomoHawk

Sorry, but there is still n such thing as an air-to-fuel ratio sensor.

I found one. It's on page BE-17.

Higuys, Is there a chart or a graphic of the connectors nears near the firewall (blue, white and black) that show the connector names? I need to know which is connector "C-4" which has the wires for the headlamps, so I can clean the pins and improve the leadlights. I looked in the Body Electrical section in the FSM and it only refers to C-4, and even tells you where the specific pin is for power & ground connections, but doesn't tell you where to find the connector itself. While I'm looking at them, I will mark them with a black marker. Thx

As usual, I will have to fix things myself.

Is it possible to get the front side clearance lamp to flash with the turn signals? Since the Zed doesn't have wrap-around front lamps, like new cars have, there are places where on-coming cars can't see the flashing, when you are turning. IMO, you could make the clearance lamp a dedicated flasher, or add a circuit board that flashes it when the front indicators are flashing, but otherwise on steady.

Those are robber strain relief-sleeves that are supposed to keep the wires from being cut and the water out of the frame rails, but as all the rubber parts exposed to the elements, they dry out and fall apart.

There are only clearance lamps on the fenders, not turn repeaters, unless you re-wire or add something to make them flash with the turn signal lamps. Lets us know if you have a working solution.

Thast's not an issue. It's a problem. There is a difference. Please learn to use correct English, not liberal jargon.

I had time and the need to make one, so I did. I cut the entire front seat belt from a modern front-wheel-drive car at the pull-it-yourself JY, and used heavy-duty Velcro from the sewing store. It worked well on a track with many tight turns. You get 6 feet of belt for the front seat!?? Just be careful not to cut off your breathing or immobilize your arms. Being in safe control is more important than strapping yourself to a seat. Autocross Chest Strap.pdf

mine makes a whizzing noise with the starter disabled.

It should only have 12V after about 10 seconds, if the thermotime switch is working correctly. Otherwise, it should have 0 volts when you first turn on the power. In any case, test it under a load. Have you downloaded the Fuel Injection Bible, and flowwed the troubleshooting charts?

You didn't define what you were intending to do with throttle position. But you are essentially correct; it tells the ECU if the the throttle valve is fully closed or fully open.

There is one there already. It's in your foot! 😉 The L-Jetronic EFI system doesn't need one, unless you are trying to re-engineer things.

Thanks man What I did was to go to my AP store (Autozone) and get a Wells DR100 Ignition Module. It's a Duralast product.

I lost the box that my GM HEI module was in, and I forgot to make a record of what I had. My docs say to use a Wells model #DR100 4-pin GM HEI module. Would someone please give some examples of which vehicles had the generic DR100 module? Those kids in the AP stores only know "Make, Model, and Year" to put into a computer. You can't even get a quart of 15W-30 oil for a lawn mower... ThxZ