Eliminating the Coolant Sensor

[TomoHawk]

Has anyone tried substituting a fixed resistor for the coolant sensor?  The engine will still operate, but you may need to make sure the  coolant was within the operational temperature range to get the full performance, which is what we do with these classic engines, anyway.

The goal is to reduce the amount of wiring on top of the intake manifold.

 I suppose you could use an adjustable resistance, for special conditions, like we do to richen the mixture, which is in addition to the coolant sensor.

I think that's the only resistance the ECU needs, besides the air temperature from the Airflow meter, and the airflow signal the from AFM itself.?

[conedodger]

One of the "tricks" that guys used to do in combination with the turbo AFM was to put a small potentiometer for variable resistance in line from the coolant temperature sensor so the could adjust the richness a bit. My personal feeling is that you're better off stock. 

[JSM]

You can tuck them and run under the fuel rail and out the back. I was actually looking at using a injector wire holder from a BMW but figured a nice wire loom would be better. 

Check out how Brapp did it in this thread at Hybridz:

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/75982-shaved-intake-280zx-now-wont-start/?p=724215

 

[Zed Head]

You could swap n a 1980+ 280ZX engine with a P79 head and CHTS.  Run the wire around the back of the cylinder head.

Or you could pair an AD and DA converter, with wireless technology.

[TomoHawk]

15 hours ago, JSM said:

You can tuck them and run under the fuel rail and out the back. I was actually looking at using a injector wire holder from a BMW but figured a nice wire loom would be better.

 

 

I was planning on diverting the wires straight back to the firewall,but not under the fuel rail.  I'd like to get   the sensors, wires, etc.  sorted out, and possibly even lengthened,  before moving them.  I too thought of pinching a wire frame from somewhere. I'd rather not remove the webbing from between the runners in case a fuel hose might leak or drip fuel on the exhaust manifold.

When reading about airflow meters I noticed that some 1970s BWs had the AFM 'on its side' meaning the black cover was facing the bonnet.  That would make the connector accessible, and better protected from rain & dirt from underneath. I think you'd only need to make a large angle bracket of some kind.

BTW, the BMW AFM has a special resistance track at the lower-flow end.  It's supposed to improve the mixture at low revs.

Edited February 25, 2017 by TomoHawk

[wheee!]

Interesting stuff