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Problems leveling my 240z


Darren Mann

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Springs are good.   They are clearly labeled.  I verifed that the correct numbers are installed in the correct location.  001's are in front and 002's are in the rear with wording so you can read it just as instructed by msa.  Insulators are correct 240z style.  This problem was present before I changed anything.  Other than the blown strut when I took that side apart nothing was out of normal.

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The simplest thing to do first would be to measure from the top of the strut, where the three studs are, to the bottom of the strut.  Whichever point you want, bottom of brake drum, hub center, whatever.  If both sides are exactly the same you'll have a real mystery.

 

In thinking about this.  If I had to jack the body on one corner to get it to level on the fenders isn't that indicating the box is the problem?  That is what I moved to get it level.  Maybe I'm not thinking correctly... 

The key to the measurement is that the strut tower tops are level at the same time as when you take the fender well measurements.

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You'll have to remove the struts to measure from top to bottom, unless you're a contortionist and can fit a measuring device up in to the inside of the tower.

 

BUT, since you have the car up and level, you can measure from the ground up to a point on the bottom of the strut.  You already know that the tops of the struts are n the same spot, assuming that you can see that the studs are fully pulled through the mounting holes at the top of the towers.  Then you'll have level strut tower tops, level fender wells, and the measurement of what the wheel is mounted to.  If you get the same measurement to the bottom of the strut, then all that's left is how the spring is holding up the weight.  Or the 1/4" or so that a gas shock adds to height.

 

You never said if the driver's wheel is actually hanging lower than the passenger's wheel, as it seems to in post #16.  It shouldn't hang lower.

 

Are the studs at the top of the struts fully inserted through the holes and bolted down?  Same on both sides?  Just checking.

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That's funny because I just measured that a few minutes ago and they were the same.  from the top spring cap to the bottom of the strut tube with the wheels in the air.  We are starting to think alike.  ;-)

 

The ONLY thing it could be that hasn't been changed out is the insulators but they wouldn't explain the extra height on the drivers side.  I have an appointment with a local body shop that can straighten it next week.  For $50 he will measure things out.  I'm thinking that would be money well spent before I buy more parts.  LOL  I really appreciate your time helping me.  Thank you.

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Sorry I didn't see your new post.  Insulator Studs are fully through on both sides.  When it was sitting level at the strut tops the wheels were still on the ground.  There was still the same difference in fender to tire space of 1" even when the fenders were the same distance to the floor.

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There was still the same difference in fender to tire space of 1" even when the fenders were the same distance to the floor.

The only way to have the same distance from the floor to the top of the fenders, AND a difference in space between the tire top and the top of the fender wells, from one side of the car to the other, is if the tires are not the same size.  Everything seems to point to that.  When you take the weight off of the springs they don't matter anymore.

 

I'm not sure if you mean the two sides were "the same difference" (meaning that the gap was the same side-to-side) or if you mean the problem of 1" difference side-to-side is "the same difference"/  Sorry, but it can be read two ways.

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The tires are still on the ground when I levered it with the jack under the passenger cab corner.  The measurement to the floor from the fender is the same.  The measurement from the fender to tire is 1" greater on the driver side.  The tires and wheels are the same size I just verified.  The tire does pitch in at the top more on the passenger side when fully lowered.

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If a strut was in the wrong location front to back would that affect the stance like this? Just thinking out loud...I am also assuming that the front and rear struts are different. Are the gland nuts threaded in the same depth all the way around?

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The tires and wheels are the same size I just verified.  The tire does pitch in at the top more on the passenger side when fully lowered.

Did you measure the tires height?  Hopefully you can see how tire height + gap = fender well height.  You can't have the tire heights the same on both sides, and the fender well heights the same on both sides, without having gap the same on both sides.  It's impossible.  

 

Fender well height = tire height + gap.

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With the car on the ground and suspension settled, is there much suspension movement in the rear on the higher side?

 

Maybe the wrong strut is in there and is compressed at that point. Are you sure that the springs are the same? Count the number of coils and measure their thickness.

 

With the car in the air and wheels removed measure the distance from the wheel well lip (see Zed Head's pic) and the center of the hub. Are they the same left to right? If you push down on the wheel studs with your foot does it feel like the suspension has dropped all the way down?

 

If the strut assemblies are the same length, the insulators on the top are the same length and the suspension is fully stretched then it has to be the strut insert limiting the wheel drop with the car in the air. Am I wrong?

 

Chuck

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I have an old ford truck that calls for different spring sizes for front driver and passenger side, which is to compensate for battery weight or something like that. Could that be the case here too; where the spring strengths are different? So if you mix the springs up the car will sit wonky?

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