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My winter project: L28 swap into my 240z


blodi

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Searching around a bit, it seems others have blocked off the block breather and it's "ok" since the block breathes up to the head/valve cover and as long as you have venting there, you are ok. So I'm just gonna leave it blocked I guess and run a k&n breather on the valve cover or keep the hose to the airbox. 

 

Yeah, I think that's just some JB weld or something there. 

 

Yeah, those plugs are something that Larry developed. He told me a bit about them on the phone. He said he would run into problems with the factory plugs leaking so these bolt into place and can be resbuilt/resealed? I don't really want to remove them and create a leak to investigate them though. :)

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Got the L24 out last night! Went super smooth. Got the new engine out of the crate and on the stand too. Going to take the trans in for rebuilt on Monday. 

 

23456364841_d4564c2728_c.jpgIMG_5346 by blodi, on Flickr

23430292552_d07cfbcd54_c.jpgIMG_5349 by blodi, on Flickr

23538802045_60294a04fc_c.jpgIMG_5352 by blodi, on Flickr

23538802255_890036d30a_c.jpgIMG_5354 by blodi, on Flickr

23170847389_69452e7ae9_c.jpgIMG_5357 by blodi, on Flickr

23538802595_e458b3e247_c.jpgIMG_5358 by blodi, on Flickr

23512731916_01db4a3f79_c.jpgIMG_5360 by blodi, on Flickr

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http://www.americancustomcam.com/index.htm

 

I spoke with Joe there and he was extremely helpful and gave me all the specs on the cam. He says its a "very popular cam" "sound awesome at idle" "makes no power below 3K, but then just pulls like crazy" and its "a very aggressive street/moderate race cam"....seems to make sense with the 300 duration and 500 lift specs he gave me on it. 

 

I talked to Jerry at Schneider about a cam such as yours that I have.

He said 10.5 to 11.0 CR required. Too high for pump gas.

He also says the 300 duration puts you outside of the street RPM driving range.

Try it out and let us know.

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I talked to Jerry at Schneider about a cam such as yours that I have.

He said 10.5 to 11.0 CR required. Too high for pump gas.

He also says the 300 duration puts you outside of the street RPM driving range.

Try it out and let us know.

 

The engine is high compression. The L engine calculator with F54/E31 flat pistons and 40 bore put it at 10.43. My engine has a thicker 2mm headgasket, but the head looks to have been shaved so I'm thinking it is in that 10.5-11 range. The seller told me he was told it was 11.0 compression when he bought it but he wasn't sure. He said he was told it was streetable, but, would just need the timing dialed back for pump gas. 

As I mentioned earlier, Joe at American Cam said it was a aggressive street cam and that it is basically the most aggressive cam you would want to use on the street. But he certainly said it was streetable.  He did say all the power was north of 3K rpm. 

Only a few mentions that I can find online of this 071 cam including this one...

"i have a 76 280z with a 071 cam. from american cam its a 300 duration and it runs good with the fuel on the rich side."

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Made some great progress this weekend. Probably going to install the engine/trans this Friday night as long as the trans is done being rebuilt by then. Might have this thing fired up before Xmas! Still plenty to do but here it what I got done this weekend...

-Old L24 all stripped down and put in the crate

-Valves adjusted

-New engine mounts installed

-Spark plugs gapped/installed

-Alternator bracket cleaned/painted/installed

-Valve cover polished/installed

-Breather filter installed

-Old long carb studs removed from L24 intake to put on N36 intake. 

-New intake/exhaust studs installed

-Oil Filter/pressure sensor installed

-Fuse installed for fuel pump

-Steam cleaned engine bay and installed new connectors for reverse switch and temp sensor

-Painted brake booster

-Cleaned alternator

-Cleaned/painted fuel rail

-Cleaned painted heat shield

-other stuff I probably forgot...anyways...some pics....

23377305309_be29e30daa_c.jpgIMG_5496 by blodi, on Flickr

23636742942_122e8ac299_c.jpgIMG_5498 by blodi, on Flickr

23449541580_a428c1ea7a_c.jpgIMG_5501 by blodi, on Flickr

23449542130_96f2f299e1_c.jpgIMG_5486 by blodi, on Flickr

23449541460_ae5e02f0d3_c.jpgIMG_5505 by blodi, on Flickr

23662881161_51c7b7f86d_c.jpgIMG_5508 by blodi, on Flickr

23637202252_da5ea70457_c.jpgIMG_5507 by blodi, on Flickr

23118431643_aba30a6910_c.jpgIMG_5511 by blodi, on Flickr

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Nice job!  Love that squeaky clean engine bay.

Looking forward to the roar on fireup.

Me too!

 

That engine bay is going to ruin my Monday, I'm going to try and wax what I can to maybe get close to your's.  :)

 

When you replace the motor mounts you should go ahead and change out the transmission insulator, Nissan #11320-E4100.  Ordered mine Friday from my local Nissan dealership, $65.  Should be there Tuesday.

 

Do you have a plan for your fuel pump?  Here's a pretty sweet set-up, http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/01/electric-fuel-pump-installation.html

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Thanks guys. The car is pretty insanely clean to begin with(body was fully restored in 2010), so not to much work needed in the engine bay to get it that clean. But,there was an exhaust manifold leak and the head gasket leaking oil, so that created a bit of grime everywhere. 

 

I actually did get a new trans insulator. I put that on the trans mount and cleaned up the whole thing this weekend too. 

 

I just bought the K&N pump from MSA. Gonna wire that in and find somewhere to mount it this weekend. 

 

Talked to the trans shop this morning. They haven't touched my trans :( I told them I really want it by this weekend. So, we'll see. I'd rather put the engine/trans in together, so I can align them outside the car...plus I don't know if I have enough clearance on my jack stands to put the trans in from the bottom. 

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