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Rear Hub Disassembly and Spindle Pin Removal


CDL1542

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Hi all,

Been putting in a ton of work on the 240Z and am putting coil overs in all around (front is all done!). I've hit some trouble for the first time in a while and was hoping for some help. Tips, tricks, etc on removing the spindle pins as well as how to properly disassemble the rear hub would be very helpful. I have T3 coilovers and am planning on sticking with the drums still for the rear. I already got the spindle pin lock bolts out but unfortunately could not save them in the process either. Thanks in advance!

 

Chris

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The spindle pin removal is a popular topic of discussion.  There is a ton all over the internet to look at: pictures, descriptions, horror stories, etc.  Not to be too negative but if you had problems with the lock bolts, the spindle pins themselves will be tough.  Sometimes they come out easily but not enough.

 

One trick to get things started and allow some penetrating oil to get in is to put an old lug nut n the end of the spindle pin and spin the pin in its bore.  After that, you can tap on the nut and see if the pin moves back and forth.  From there it's just a matter of how far you can get it to move and what it gets stuck on.  Worst case, people cut the pin in to pieces and press them out later.

 

Here's an example, from Blue's work - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html

 

And here's the hubs, which are also described in the FSM - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html

 

And bonus stuff - http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

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Spindle pin removal was the single most challenging thing on my rebuild. Having said that, I removed strut with control arm, after cutting with sawsall btwn hub cast iron and control arm, front and back, the first one (right side) dropped right out with a couple taps with hammer and punch....

The other one on the other hand... Tried the same method-no. Added heat-no. Tried the shop 5ton press-no. Finally went to industrial machine shop with a 50! Ton press - he put a little more than 25! Tons on it, and it popped right out :)~ Was a "bit" rusted..

Remember to put some anti-sieze on this stuff when you put it back together.

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It the rust (dirt, crud, water deposits) wasn't enough, I've seen several that were "mushroomed" internally on one or both sides of the Lock Bolt.  The spindle is "softer" than I would have originally thought.  If it's out of place, or the lock bolt is over-tightened, or installed incorrectly, it can deform the pin in that area - making it even harder to remove.  Besides the anti-sieze, use caution installing the spindle pin and lock bolt - and don't over-tighten.

 

To remove, I use impact.  A couple of old lug nuts on the threads of either end (or both...).  If I can get the spindle pin to turn, I can always get them out.

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