What do people consider "sensible" updates?

[Matthew Abate]

I just purchased my 1973 240Z and, before I start going crazy, I was wondering what are considered "sensible" updates. I will figure out if the numbers are truly matching receive it on Saturday (the condition justified the price regardless), so that will determine my long-term plan, but if it ends up being numbers matching I will be much more inclined to do an actual restoration as opposed to a rest-mod.

 

Mostly I'm thinking about rear disk breaks. I can't stand changing drum pads. I'm also looking at a front air dam and Minilites.

 

If the car doesn't have the original engine I am thinking of going with an L28et/T5/R200 setup.

 

So, please, let the opinions fly!

[Jarvo2]

Depends what your goals are.  A bone stock original/restoration will be worth more than a modified one.  For me, I'm doing light modifications to enhance the enjoyment of my '72 240z and the drive-ability of it.

 

I would suggest you start with the essentials (unless they've been done already) -- Struts, Bushings, Full Engine Rebuild, Round-Top Carbs (73 had the flat tops), New Fuel Hoses, Electronic Ignition (pertronix is hidden nicely), and Door seals, etc.

Welcome to the club & enjoy your project!

[psdenno]

Wheels and a front air dam are changes you mentioned that can be easily reversed if you, or a future owner, tire of the look or function.  As for swapping the rear brake shoes for calipers and rotors, I've never been tempted.  My Z has reliably stopped quite nicely using its front disc and rear drum brakes for 44 years.  I doubt that I'll wear out, and need to change, the current rear brake shoes in my lifetime.  Jarvo2's suggestions above are a solid way to start as you get to know your "new" Z.

Dennis

[Namerow]

Upgraded wiring harnesses for headlights and parking lights.  Updated fuse block, too, if your OE unit is 'toasted'. Follow with upgraded headlights.

[rcb280z]

Definitely the headlight & parking light harness upgrade. Worked nicely on my 280. You should look at all wiring and connectors. Clean and or replace questionable ones. If it is stock make sure it runs and drives right before you attempt any mods.  

[Mike W]

I agree with all that has been said so far about focusing on those things that will improve the basic operation of the car.  Suspension, electrical, etc are all candidates and you should be able to figure out the priority once you get the vehicle and have some time with it.

 

A quick comment on the rear brake upgrade that you are considering.  I just competed a 4 wheel upgrade using the Arizona Z kit.  It is very high quality and even though I thought the OEM brakes were more than sufficient, the stopping power I have now is definitely a cut above OEM.  Probably was not a necessity for me as most of my driving is street oriented (albeit spirited at that), but I do like having the improved braking capability.

 

However, this upgrade was not without its challenges.  First, if you go with the discs on the rear, you will likely lose the hand brake capability that you have now.  This is somewhat dependent on the setup that you use, but for sure the Arizona Z kit does away with the OEM hand brake setup. However Dave from Arizona Z does sell a nicely designed "mechanical" caliper and also provides the brackets to mount it, but the installation of the cable and other hardware necessary to make it work will essentially be up to you.  I ended up having to design some custom brackets for an aftermarket Lokar universal hand brake cable and it was a very elegant design in the end, but I had to figure this all out myself.

 

On top of that, you will also need to change your proportioning valve so as to get the correct bias between front and rear.  The stock valve is attached to the firewall near the booster, but it is fixed.  You will need to either replace the OEM one or augment it with an adjustable one.  The Arizona Z kit does come with a nice Wilwood valve but it is big and bulky and you have to find a place to mount it as well.  I ended up going a different route with a much smaller valve but it required the fabrication of a few brake lines and some other bracket design work. 

 

Should you decide to go this route in the future, I'd be happy to post some pictures and provide more details on exactly what I did to make this work, but it is not as simple as just bolting on a set of calipers in the rear, and "you're done".

 

Hope that helps.

 

Mike.

[Zed Head]

Did you get more stopping power or easier stopping power?  If you can lock up the tires you have maximum stopping power.  A bigger booster will also give easier stopping power.

 

There are reasons to go for rear discs over drum but sometimes they aren't clearly defined.

[Namerow]

Another 'practical' upgrade would be to replace your 40-yr-old seat belts with new.  The Wesco 'roadster' 3-point belts seem to be the consensus choice.  EZ bolt-in.  You can keep the original Nissan belts for concours events.

 

Also:

 

1. The windshield wiper system should be attended to.  Having read most of the threads on this, as well as taking a couple of systems apart, I think you can probably get 90% of the way just by cleaning and re-greasing all of the linkage joints and shafts.  The wiper-arm stub shafts are prime culprits.  You can also do the w/w motor upgrade using a more modern unit from a Honda Civic, but I'm not convinced that this is a cost-effective step to take.

 

2. The interior heating/vent system will also need attention.  Most of the seals and baffles will probably be shot... although this isn't a terminal problem.  The control cables and control levers will probably need to be lubricated (and that can become terminal, if the linkages bind and a cable gets kinked).  A good, pro-active move (not really an 'upgrade', though) will be to replace the 'water ****' and the heater hoses.  A worthwhile actual upgrade will be to swap out the blower motor for a more modern motor.  Again, a Honda Civic unit seems to be the most popular choice.  EZ to do, although the re-and-re of the system from under the dash rewards small hands, a strong back, good lighting, the right selection of tools... and lots of patience.

[siteunseen]

Get rid of the points distributor, ZX E12-80 electronic ignition was good for me.  Choke lever holder mounted to the tunnel instead of the console makes a much firmer movement of the the choke.  Clean and seal the fuel tank, replace all the hoses too.

 

[John Coffey]

My sensible is not your sensible.  325hp, triple adjustable shocks, and a sequential 5 speed trans are sensible to me.  :-)