Jump to content

IGNORED

L24 Rebuild -Again!


madkaw

Recommended Posts

Yes this is the second time around for the little L.  And boy I have learned a lot and probably forgot a lot too!

First time around the machinist/builder did most of the work. He dissembled and assembled the block and head and I put the two together. I degreed the cam and everything else to get it running.

It's an early E-88 head on a stock P30 block .030 over pistons.

The head had a full Schneider stage 2 kit-cam,springs,retainers,rockers.

The engine ran very well and dynoed 155RWHP with SU's.

But then I had some issues that i could only determine as valve issues caused by faulty rockers. here's where the learning comes in and hopefully no forgetting. I think my machinist let the bad rockers slip thru by not doing a complete wipe pattern on the lash pads too.

 

Anyway, since L24 rebuilds are trending on CZCC , I thought I would join in!

The block went back to the machinist for re hone for new rings. There was some minor scoring in the bores, but it all cleaned up. Probably towards the max piston/wall clearance, but she will be loose!!  I ordered sealed power rings to match the Sealed power pistons. The only rings I could find in .030 over that had the Napier second ring-which the machinist insisted on.

I swapped out the crank with another one I had. The reason was I was running a speedi sleeve on the rear main nad I wanted to eliminate it. I pulled my crank from my original no# matching block. It cleaned up perfect  with no grinding, just polishing.

The pistons and rods looked great also. The motor only ran about 13K miles, so I was hoping they would be fine. Just scotch brited the pistons and checked the ring glands. 

So I bought new main and rod bearings, new rings, new freeze plugs.

 

 

The plan is for a pre assembly to check oil clearances, thrust clearance, deck height, HG height, bore notching clearance.

 

I will try and throw up some picsw every once in a while:)

 

The attached pic shows what a work horse the Z really is! 

Also attached is the block from prior rebuild and also the head the first time around. 

post-6833-0-06577800-1423796651_thumb.jp

post-6833-0-70124500-1423796717_thumb.jp

post-6833-0-21058500-1423796818_thumb.jp

post-6833-0-94729900-1423797009_thumb.jp

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Since you mentioned piston cleaning, I intend to use Berryman Chem-Dip Parts and Carburetor Cleaner after viewing this Video:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRiZOTTel34

 

Getting ready to post this, I also found this:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcPkLuX4CAU

 

this stuff is supposed to have a modern solvent that penetrates the carbon overnight. Available at Walmart

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was a long time ago, but any unshrouding I did was probably before valve seats were replaced, but can't swear to it. Most of what I did was at the outside to get the full use of the combustion chamber using the fire ring of the HG as my guide. I also concentrated on smoothing the spark plug threads in that area and any other possible sharp edges. I believe the machinist blended the valve seats. I did NOT try to reshape the bowls as much as I was looking to give my bigger valves room to breathe around the outside towards the bore walls. Thus the large notching on the bores. 

Disclaimer;  I am not an engine builder or do I proclaim my way is better. I did major unshrouding both on the bore and head -you might want to be more conservative. Unshrouding is not rocket science, but if you feel uneasy doing it the machinist should be fully capable or willing to do it. I was willing to push the limit and start back over if it didn't work out.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since you mentioned piston cleaning, I intend to use Berryman Chem-Dip Parts and Carburetor Cleaner after viewing this Video:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRiZOTTel34

 

Getting ready to post this, I also found this:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcPkLuX4CAU

 

this stuff is supposed to have a modern solvent that penetrates the carbon overnight. Available at Walmart

 

 

 

I just had to grind the valves on my snow blower.  I used Permatex Gasket Remover as part of the job.... it bubbled the carbon and gasket like paint stripper.

 

PERMATEX%20GASKET%20REMOVER%204MA-500x50

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cleaned my pistons(tops only) with the Berrymans stuff before sending them to the machinist.I had some serious stuff baked on the top of the pistons. A combination of carbon from tuning up and down of my triples and such and add a dab of oil from valve issues and you get some serious gunk-see pic!

 Berryman's is good stuff but I wouldn't leave anything in that solution for long or at least monitor it closely. I have left carb bits in there too long and it discolors the aluminum or will remove the cladding on parts.

The machinist scrubbed the pistons down with fine scotch brite after cleaning.

The gasket remover is some nasty sh!t and it sprays, so it can get on your hands easier and burn. I like the control of the dipping process and leaving it in the shed out back so I don't have to smell it!

 

looks beautiful - thanks for taking the time to post your progress.

i'm reading these build threads like a sponge in prep for mine...

It all looks pretty when it's fresh doesn't it. Kind of like the rest of my resto. Look at it closely before you pull it out of the garage for the first time because it will never look that good again-LOL

 

post-6833-0-30024400-1423840951_thumb.jp

post-6833-0-31695200-1423841067_thumb.jp

post-6833-0-55988200-1423841095_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guy-they are scary deep actually.  This will be checked during preassembly. I plan to dykam blue the bores and run the pistons thru their cycle and check for breach.

This engine ran really well for years and I don't think there is an issue here, but everything will be checked. Don't see how anything would change over time regarding

I will add that upon dissembly the markings from of the rings on the bores were very tight on the notches. The machinist did not believe there was any issue there.

I sincerely believe all my issues were valve related -caused by rocker arms

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.