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1976 280Z Restoration Project


wheee!

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You do not need the lower diff mount (rubber component) as the GM mount both supports and cushions the diff with a suspended bolt that will 'catch' the diff in case of bushing failure.

See their page for details!

Strange double posting....

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You do not need the lower diff mount (rubber component) as the GM mount both supports and cushions the diff with a suspended bolt that will 'catch' the diff in case of bushing failure.

See their page for details!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Baking Light is in along with most of the other toys I ordered. I added a few things to the buy list as well. Picked up the TechnoVersions modified trans mount for the RT Diff Mount. Gonna powder coat that diff mount too!

Ordered a small arsenal of LED lights to play with the dash lights eventually.Ordered a bag of 5mm Plastic rivets for the panels. Ordered another 12 pin harness adapter for the Fuel Injection as the first one never arrived. 3M Paint cup system starter cups arrived. 

Don't know if I mentioned it or not before but I also ordered and received a NOS OEM 5 spd shift knob in black leather for the car. Loving that!

 

Here's a question.... Does anyone know of a company that will rewrap and restore a rubber wrapped steering wheel (original 280Z) with a new leather cover? I plan on painting the metal areas, but would love to have to professionally rewrapped in a leather stitched cover.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Mark, the media blasting treatment you did looks very good, was the copper 
"soft" enough not to cause issues of warping the metal? #50 Copper Slag (Medium?) Grit, How did the floor pans come out? That's the first time I've seen them being welded around the outside of the chassis rather than being cut and welded from the inside. 

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The media is actually a crystalline structure with sharp edges like coal. It is a by product of copper smelting and is hence called "copper slag" No copper content.

No issues with using this material at all. It leaves a slightly textured surface that is perfect for hi build primers and other sealants as it gives the perfect surface for adhesion.

The floor pans are ongoing as I have been deployed for the last two months and the prior month I was prepping some major yard work. I will be back working on the car when I return home mid June.

The floor pans will not be welded around the outside. They will be cut with the existing metal to form a perfect butt weld seam and then welded. It is easier to do the metal forming from the outside at the moment. All the parts are held in with Cleco's so they can be removed for fitting. The frame rail helps support the floor pan the correct position.

Thanks for the interest!

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