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Leather Dash Cover Installation


djwarner

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After much searching, I found an overseas source for an S30 leather dash cover made from Italian leather. Finally got it delivered yesterday and will document the installation process here for those interested.

 

I had previously attempted a dash repair with SEMS bumper repair but found problems with thermal expansion/contraction causing failures at the vinyl joints. The advantage of leather is the material will expand and contract with the material underneath without failing. 

 

Since this vendor is new to me, I won't give the source until I determine the quality of the fit and difficulty in installation. I am also working with them to verify their design.

 

So far the only discrepancy I've found is in the recesses for the hazard switch and spare recess for fog light switch (as in my series I - believe later years mounted the cigarette lighter there). They only included one funnel shaped recess for the upper recess. This will mean relocating the hazard switch to the upper position for my installation. I am anticipating the manufacturer will be adding the second funnel in future production.

 

There are also funnel shaped additions to wrap around the recesses for the speedo, tach, and fresh air vents. The shallow recesses for the three gauges are not included and will be molded in during installation.

 

After a trial fit I've determined I will pull the dash to install. As with any compound curve fitting with leather, there will be shrinking and stretching involved. Unfortunately, most of the stretching will be in the valleys between the gauges and in the recesses.

 

Here is where I can use some help from our more experienced members. I've custom molded pistol holsters by soaking them before molding and then boning them to shape. Shrinking with a heat gun should be no problem. I am anticipating rough sizing wet, allowing it to dry in place and then a final fit and glue in place. Any suggestions here would be appreciated.

 

The leather itself measures 1 mm thick, so I am pondering whether adversely affect installation/removal of the speedo and tach.

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Fantastic project, definitely looking forward to the progress reports. Sorry no upholstry experience. I'm pretty sure the suitability and quality of the glue will be critical.

 

Regarding the tach/speedo removal issue. If the leather is 1mm thick it will likely cause removal issues. The standard plastic dash covers are likely a bit thinner than this, and they more or less remove any chance of removing the instruments from the front. Now the fact that leather is soft "might" mean the gauges can be weasel'ed out with a lubricant and gentle prodding, but only trial and error will prove this one way or the other. not a show stopper, you can after all, always take the dash out!

 

Good luck!

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Here's an update on my dash upgrade.

 

Pulled the dash and prepped for covering. Noted the vinyl covering is only 0.5 mm (0.020") thick. Original construction appears to be a vacuum formed sheet of black vinyl and then back filled with an expanding foam using a form to match the metal frame of the dash. Originally this foam was soft to act as a cushion in an accident. Age has turned the foam hard and the vinyl brittle. 

 

I had previously attempted a repair with SEMS plastic bumper repair epoxy, but found it difficult to use due to its 15 second working time. I ended up relying on a butt joint between the epoxy and the vinyl/foam. The bond area was too thin on the vinyl to withstand thermal stresses in the Florida sun. 

 

Also, the failure points appeared to be in gaps between metal frame members spanning several inches. While cleaning out the gaps and widening to accept the new filler, I was surprised to see the table top rather than metal. So there was nothing there to back up the new filler. So I decided to back the gap with a plastic mesh you can find hobby shop used for embroidery. Cut to fit and secured by Gorilla Tape, it allowed epoxy to spread through the mesh and make a lap joint with the foam on either side. I also cut out the foam beneath the vinyl to allow epoxy to form a lap joint with the vinyl as well. 

 

The epoxy used was West System Six10 thickened epoxy adhesive with a 40+ minute working time purchased from a local boating supply store. The material is a two part epoxy in a caulking tube and comes with a mixer tube. The material comes out like toothpaste and is easily spread to fill voids. It is too thick to self level so a putty knife is needed to form the new surface. There is little to no shrinkage as it cures, even though I laid sections up to 1/2" thick.

 

The epoxy skinned up in about 40 minutes and takes 24 hours to fully cure.

 

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nice write up...

 

When I did my dash repair I used fiberglass as a backing on the underside of the dash and filled the gap with great stuff spray foam. I also did an undercut on the dash cuts vs a straight cut. I did my dash over 3 years ago and still no cracks.

 

Steve

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My current dash is in pretty good shape, but I know it's a ticking time bomb like they all are.

 

So what does the other side of the leather cover look like? Is it all "baseball wrap" stitching everywhere, or is it pretty plain? I've seen some other leather covers that have stitched seams all over the place and I don't like the look. Looks like I'm staring at the back pockets of a pair of designer jeans from the 70'.

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My current dash is in pretty good shape, but I know it's a ticking time bomb like they all are.

 

Many years ago, as a teenager, I had a Z with a pristine dash.  One day, the clock stopped working and I decided to give the top center guage pod a good slap to hopefully get it ticking again.

 

I think you all can figure out the rest :angry:

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I repaired my dash this past summer and experienced the same fast-set problems with the SEM 'Bumper-Bite' product.  As noted above, you really do get only ~ 30 - 45 seconds before it gets chalky and will no longer spread properly.  Interesting that the label instructions offer no cautions about this.  I experimented with different proportions of hardener and resin (even as little as 1:5) and found that it really didn't make much difference (!).  I wonder if a lot of this stuff has been sitting on the retailers' shelves for too long and has started to chemically change?

 

Even though it was a giant PITA to work with, I liked the semi-flexible aspect of Bumper-Bite and decided to stick with it.  I worked with very small batches -- about a half-inch of product squeezed from each tube, then a fast mix with a putty knife, followed by quick transfer and smoothing into the dash crack area.  I used a 4" x 6" tear-off notepaper pad as my mixing sheet and just threw away each page after use.  Bumper-Bite sands and forms really well, and takes primer nicely.  I had to use regular autobody glazing putty to final-treat the inevitable pin holes. 

 

FWIW, I used Dow 'Great Stuff' (red label version) foam-in-a-can to fill most of the crack. This was backed it up with an under-layer of fibreglass wherever possible.  The foam layer was carved down so that the Bumper-Bite fill layer never had to be much more than ~ 1/8" thick.  All of the cracks were vee'd and the edges of the top vinyl surface were beveled.

 

I live in a much more temperate climate than DJ, so I'm optimistic that my dash repairs will last.  Not sure that I'd still be that optimistic if I lived in Orlando or Phoenix.

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Here is an update.

 

Some things I've learned:

 

Watch the Youtube - several times.

 

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Don't expect an exact fit as supplied. The dash has many compound curve to be fitted and with a limited number of pieces of leather, stretching and shrinking will be required.

 

Since you will be fitting over a waterproof covering, I'd soak the leather in water to allow stretching. After soaking, wring out the leather. Without glue and while damp, establish the best fit and stretch where required. Attach with spring clamps to hold in place (you can't have too many). Allow it to dry in position before attempting any glue up.

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This is not a Saturday project. It is not a weekend project. Due to the soaking, stretching, shrinking and 20 minute drying time for each section of contact cement application. Several sessions will be required. This is not all bad. There will be times when you get frustrated, let it go for the day and come back tomorrow, the leather relaxes overnight and gets easier to work. Also, things never look as bad the next day.

 

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Using contact cement allows one attempt at placement and it adheres instantly. But if you find you made a mistake, you can pull it off and try again. Just make sure that any balls of glue are removed to prevent bumps underneath when you re-glue. Clean up messy areas with mineral spirits. I found this feature useful while trying to stretch sections in valley curves. I'd temporarily attach the leather beyond the area to be stretched, wet the leather, and press in place with towels and clamps. Let the area dry and then remove the temporary glue up. Fold back and continue installation process.

 

As with any project, the more features you include in the design, the more things there are to go wrong. I had a problem with the location of the holes for the three small instruments. I've been in contact with the manufacturer and suggested they eliminate the three holes and leave it for the installer. I've been communicating small hints like this as I go along to make the project easier for those who follow and to help make their product better. I've had positive responses from them.

 

For areas that don't require stretching or shrinking, You can use a Loctite Spray Adhesive used for attaching interior panels. The label says "High performance, middleweight bonding, 200 - middle, high initial tack." The SKU number is 79340 68720. This eliminates the 20 minute drying time required for contact cement.

 

When laying down a clumsy area or where there is an opportunity for the coated leather can stick to itself, use an uncoated piece of leather or newspaper to prevent contact prematurely. fold the paper back on itself to slowly expose the two contact cement surfaces when you are ready.

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