Upgrade electric system, alternator, Fusible Links, remove External Voltage regulator

[Captain Obvious]

Yeah, I don't know what made them draw the relay the way they did, but they certainly could have done a better job with that part.

 

Like the fusible links... They spent a lot of effort trying to make the components on the wiring diagram somewhat match the physical location of the devices on the car. And then they screwed up the fusible links when it would have been easy to draw them "right". Unfortunately, they're NOT drawn where they actually appear on the car.

 

Haha. Maybe you're right. "It's too complicated for you... You shouldn't work on it yourself. Take it to the dealer."

[tamo3]

Working on de-coding External regulator with alternator diagram on '77 280z.

 

Original External Regulator

 

 

Remove external regulator and replace GM CS130D IC internal Alternator

 

 

What do you think?

Edited May 23, 2015 by tamo3

[Captain Obvious]

Hi Tamo,

 

Actually I think the drawings in the FSM for the alternator section are pretty good.

 

Are you having a problem with yours?

[wheee!]

Some good info in here!

[SteveJ]

Thanks Captain.

 

Now, I'm working on the IGN relay.

 

I saw photo of new IGN relay.

_77_IGN_Relay_photo.jpg

part number (PN: 25230-89958) and cost $60 or more....

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/72897-280z-ignition-relay/?p=696663

 

But don't see schematic for easy wiring.

So, I draw one.

_77_IGN_Relay.jpg

 

Do you think this is correct wiring?

 

Thanks,

tamo3

I have made a few of these. I don't think $60 is that high considering the cost of parts and labor to wire the base. I think I was charging $45 shipped in the US.

[SteveJ]

Here's a link that shows one that I made: http://www.zcar.com/forum/2379714-post3.html

[tamo3]

I end up ammeter / voltmeter swap like this with CS144 Altnator.  I still have 3 issues. I can't figure out what is wrong. My battery and alternator are brand new.

1. Charge warning lamp won't turn on.
2. Voltmeter is not work.
3. This Alternator is not charging the battery. When running engine, the battery shows around 12.20V. It should showsaround 14.xxV

Here is the original Ammeter schematic for '75 280z.

 

Here is '77 280z Voltmeter schematic.

 

Could someone advise me?

Thanks in advance.

Edited December 27, 2017 by tamo3

[tamo3]

I got help at Hybrid Z site to figure out issues.

First of all, the charge warning lamp was out.

Then, voltmeter connection was wrong. I need to connect to the 12V constant.

Here is the final schematic.

 

 

 

 

[Captain Obvious]

Tamo,  Just wanted to say that I'm glad you got to the root of the problem and let you know that I read your post and wanted to help, but I know nothing about the CS144. I was hoping someone else here would chime in.

So I'm just happy you got the help you needed, even if it wasn't from here.  

[tamo3]

Thanks Captain! Finally, all the electric upgrade is completed. 

• Remove shunt
• Remove external Voltage regulator
• Install GM CS-144 Alternator which built-in IC regulator
• Swap ammeter to voltmeter
• wire voltmeter charge warning lamp
• Swap 280ZX distributor and remove transistor
• Install power locks and relays
• Install power windows and relay
• Install Viper car alarm and relay
• Install Alpine stereo
• Install speaker in front and rear
• Install power amp
• Install starter relay
• Install head light relays
• Install power antenna relay
• Install additional fusebox for constant
• Install additional fusebox for IGN
• Install modified Autometer Tachometer

When I listed up, wow! just realized, it's a lot!

I'm so happy with this result!

Now try to put back the dash board.... I hate this work next to spindle pin removal...

[tamo3]

Here is a video for current status.

 

[wheee!]

What power window unit did you go with or was it a kit with the locks to provide the “roll up and lock” feature on the fob?