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Dual Points Electrical Diagram Help


HuD 91gt

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Hello everyone,

I'm still trying to figure out why I have a lack of power from idle(to 1400rpm or so). After digging into the manual a little further, i've found that my automatic drops the timing down to 0 when temperature is higher, and in cold climates it bumps it up to 10 degrees (Where idle on a manual car is). It says it does this for emmisions.

I'm looking to bypass the 0 degree set of points, and only use the "advanced" set. If I bridge the temperature switch, will this not make the car "feel" like it is below 0c degrees (32f) in all conditions? My electrical wiring diagram knowledge is apparently not that great.

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Edited by HuD 91gt
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The simplest way to essentially defeat all this is to rewire the distributor so that the "advance" point contact goes directly to the "-" side of the coil, and remove the "retard" wire from the distributor. This essentially puts you back to a simple one-point distributor. Unplug and discard the relay.

Frankly either set of points can be used, you choose. Just set your timing after you're done.

Hey, this leaves you with a "spare" set of points! If one set burns up on the road, just connect the wire to the other contact and carry on! (with either + or - 10 degrees advance initial....)

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I think that you have the change direction backward. Timing is advanced when cold, and goes to the set point when warm. So if you set it to 10 when warm (using a timing light), it will advance to 20 when cold. Advanced timing gives more time for the cold fuel-air charge to burn.

If you set your timing to zero, that could affect engine performance. It would be very sluggish.

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ZKars. Something so simple yet I never even thought of that. The idea of having a spare set of points for backup did enter my mind! Great idea.

If the two sets are basically the same thing, but one is just manually set more advanced, any idea why there is different condenser part numbers for each, with what I assume different ratings?

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