grannyknot

Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

489 posts in this topic

2.5" isn't much clearance. I know some people ride around an inch (literally) from the ground and do fine (I have no idea how), but I like to have at least 4" clearance. I wouldn't want to run the risk to ruining my engine due to lack of oil - especially an S38 - and I like knowing that speed bumps and railroad tracks and what not won't be an issue at normal speed. Road quality makes a big difference too, and I can't imagine your roads up there are any better than ours, which aren't great.

You may not have much issue with it, but if it were me I'd plan on doing that as next winter's project.

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ID: 477   Posted (edited)

2.5" from the bottom of the skid pan, 3.5" from the bottom of the oil pan. Maybe I should attach some Titanium skid blocks and do some spark shows at night.:finger:

Well, getting down to it, finished the interior today, still missing a pull knob and a chrome cap but it is pretty much done. Matt is coming to tune the megasquirt tomorrow morning, I get the safety certificate on Tuesday and hopefully licenced that afternoon. Then I get to start slowly driving it around to see if all my steering mods worked and of course then back up to Jody so he can buff out the paint.

I borrowed my wife's good camera to get some better shots than the old shop cam is capable of.DSC02815.JPGDSC02817.JPGDSC02818.JPGDSC02819.JPGDSC02820.JPGDSC02821.JPGDSC02825.JPGDSC02829.JPG

 

Edited by grannyknot

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Luxury Interior!

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ID: 479   Posted (edited)

awesommmmmmmmmmmmmme!

strut tower bar looks pretty neat! i like it. i like ittttttttttt.

how are those plug-n-chug cup holders? I know the one for the Z31 300ZX has the cup holders on the rear, not at the front. I wonder if it would be more like an elbow holder with the seating position of most Z chassis with it at the front. 

 

Edited by Careless

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That's fantastic!! You must be so happy!!  :victorious:

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You are a true craftZman.  The PS must be a treat.

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ID: 483   Posted (edited)

Before I forget I just want to say a big thanks to everyone that has supported and encouraged me through this build, it's so easy to loose focus but this thread and your replies has helped keep the goal in site, thank you for that.

But she aint done yet, I took the car out for another test run this morning after completing some tweaks and got caught in a 5 min down pour of rain, first the instrument lights went then the D/S front signal and the running lights at the same time, then came the smell of something electrical burning, it lasted a couple seconds and then was gone. I turned off the the lights, the fan, the wipers and beetled home quickly. After checking all the fuses and connectors and not finding anything wrong I decided the melted mass of wires must be in the dash wiring... so

DSCN1571.JPGDSCN1572.JPGStill didn't find anything wrong, then I noticed the green/red wire on the turn signal control had broken or burned off, luckily I have a set of spare set so changed that out and finding nothing else wrong re installed the dash.

I'm sure this is what I smelt burning this morning, obviously this is the cause of the turn signal failure but I don't know if this could also be the cause of the marker/running light failure. The instrument lights I don't think is related and not much of a concern for me. I know there are a few of you out there that know this circuit inside out, I'm all ears.

The socket/connectors for the turn signals at the front of the car were soaking wet when I pulled them apart but then those black covers aren't really suppose to keep them dry are they?

DSCN1575.JPGDSCN1577.JPGDSCN1578.JPG

Edited by grannyknot

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But what was the cause? I wouldn't think there was any water in there, so water intrusion at a light?

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The wire breaking off at the solder joint is fairly common, I think.  Not unknown anyway.  My headlights wire did that.  I ended up running the running lights and the headlights through relays to take the heat out of that switch.  The cause for that, as I've seen it discussed is that the contacts get pitted and carboned up and get hot, hot enough to either melt that solder or cause it to fatigue after many heat cycles.

Better check your tail lights.  They share power with the instrument lights.  No instrument lights means no tail lights on my 76 car.  The fuse is probably blown.

Looks like two problems, one is the overheating switch, and the other is the blown tail lights.  The current from the shorted tail lights might have pushed the switch over the top before the fuse blew.

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

But what was the cause? I wouldn't think there was any water in there, so water intrusion at a light?

 

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

The wire breaking off at the solder joint is fairly common, I think.  Not unknown anyway.  My headlights wire did that.  I ended up running the running lights and the headlights through relays to take the heat out of that switch.  The cause for that, as I've seen it discussed is that the contacts get pitted and carboned up and get hot, hot enough to either melt that solder or cause it to fatigue after many heat cycles.

Better check your tail lights.  They share power with the instrument lights.  No instrument lights means no tail lights on my 76 car.  The fuse is probably blown.

Looks like two problems, one is the overheating switch, and the other is the blown tail lights.  The current from the shorted tail lights might have pushed the switch over the top before the fuse blew.

No fuses were blown, hazards lights work perfectly, could a lot of rain water temporarily bridge the terminals and cause a short? You know it may have nothing to do with the rain, could just be the signals switch haven't been used in 20 yrs.

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ID: 487   Posted (edited)

I was thinking about the instrument lights.  The 240Z wiring isn't quite the same as 280Z wiring though.  Not sure how they did turn signals, or instrument lights for the 240Z.

But the switch pitting and wearing, causing overheating, is just a design weakness that they carried all the way through the Z car years. 

Edit - most of the switches in my car worked more consistently after I sprayed CAIG Deoxit in to the internals and worked the switch.  The inherently moist Z car interior isn't good for the switches.  How is the dimmer switch for your headlights doing?  Mine didn't work until I Deoxit'ed it.  Bummer that you tore the whole interior out only to find that damaged switch on top of the steering column.

Edited by Zed Head

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20 hours ago, Zed Head said:

 How is the dimmer switch for your headlights doing? 

I deleted the stock dimmer. I installed the spare signal switch today but something felt weird about the action so took it apart and the little ball bearing was missing so I cleaned up the old switch and re soldered the the wire back and installed it.

Instrument lights and parking lights are now working again but the D/S front signal is still not working even though it blinks perfectly when the hazards are on. I also have the parking light relay set up from Zsonthebrain . Pretty sure the signal switch is still the problem, I'm going to stop by a bicycle repair shop tomorrow and see if they will sell me one 3mm ball bearing:rolleyes: for the spare switch.

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Got it working, the right combination was the spare signal switch and a 1/8th" ball bearing, all lights and signals are working perfectly now. I'm thinking maybe the rain had nothing to do with the failure, at least I'm hoping the rain had nothing to do with it. I've never read about anyone else having their signal switch blow due to wet connectors at the front of the car.

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