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Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z


grannyknot

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whhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy you do dis?????

have you considered a small LiFePo4 battery? talk to Matt @ MT about the battery they use in the chump car.
If you're ever by there, ask him to show it to you. it's so small that you could probably hide it UNDER the factory battery tray with the terminals pointing inwards towards the engine for easy access,

https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/extreme-power/sc-1/

It's about the size of a Sony BetaMax tape... that's around your time, innit?  :Zap:

LOL j/k

 

Those rad mounts look funky. Like modern furniture. 

Edited by Careless
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I did check into those small powerful batteries but none of them are recommended for daily or even weekend driven cars. The battery I did go with is a type 75D which is quite a bit smaller then the type 24 that Datsun used and half the size of the one bmw used.

7 hours ago, Careless said:

Those rad mounts look funky. Like modern furniture. 

Form follows function grasshopper.  I'm sure I was one of the last hold outs for the Beta Max, superior in every way except sales.

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Looks like it should work.  Easier than dropping the center section.  Did you put some sleeves between the two parts so you can get full torque on the bolts?  Might be a little springy.  Or is the bottom drilled out so you can clamp on the top section?  

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21 hours ago, Careless said:

if you end up boxing up the gaps and grinding them flush with a flap wheel, she'll look right n' purdy.

 

what's next on the list?

Good idea, it will also keep the sand and water out.
 The list is long,

Find a place for the air filter to live, it's getting tight in there.

Find a place for the oil cooler and plumb it in,

Figure out how to lift the hood with small gas shocks, the stock spring is in the way of where the air filter might go,

Machine an adapter to mate the back of the drive shaft CV joint with the Diff.

Make up a heat shield to protect the wiring harness from the headers.

Build a new or modify the old wiring harness.

Build the battery box, find a spot for the fuel pump/fuel filter to live, plumb that in.

Install brake lines and proportioning valve.

Weld up modified shifting linkage, figure out how to attach existing throttle cable to Datsun gas pedal.

Build an exhaust system

Good times:)

20 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Looks like it should work.  Easier than dropping the center section.  Did you put some sleeves between the two parts so you can get full torque on the bolts?  Might be a little springy.  Or is the bottom drilled out so you can clamp on the top section?  

I meant to put sleeves in but got carried away, had to drill and grind away the bottom holes large enough to fit a 14mm socket into.

7 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

  Good idea. I love prototypes that work the first time.

Well, I know it fits, I won't know if it works for another year. Prototypes always have surprises waiting for you.

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8 hours ago, Careless said:

Z31 hood shocks might work for you. they're somewhat small

After perusing all the threads I could find on hood shocks I have ordered 2 lift springs from Liftsupports.com  they are 8" compressed, 12.5" extended and 43lbs of force. I think I can make a working system out of them. I'll put up some pics when they arrive.

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hopefully they are not too strong. depending on where they are located, they can actually tweak the hood if it requires a bit too much force to move them. but the S30 hoods are pretty stout along the drip rail so i have high hopes! let me know how it turns out... I might need some for my 240Z :huh:

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I got the hood gas springs in the mail  yesterday and installed everything today. In this thread, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91439-hood-strut-conversion-for-s30/?hl=zraceproducts  I copied what Litman did in post #10. I used two 4477N10 gas charged lift supports from these guys, http://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4477n10-gas-charged-ball-socket-lift-struts-supports-10176n10w/

The 43lb gas springs hold the hood easily in any position higher then 16" from closed, lower then that and the weight of the hood takes over and starts to close by itself.  I cut off the bits that were used to hold the torsion springs onto the hinges and welded the ball to the hinge pin.

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