240z Steering Play

[HuD 91gt]

Well, I don't believe the splined section is my issues, unless it is the splined end near the rack. The upper section was completed rusted together and had no movement at all upon disassembly. I had to disconnect the isolator, to get some room to disconnect the shaft from the rack. I think a lot of the play comes from the universal joints.

But I dropped the car off this morning. Such a joy to drive. I was also amazed to see the automatic transmission was actually shifting this time around! Must have had something to do with all the vacuum lines I changed out. Or i'm just imagining things, as I have no idea how the tranny works. Ha. Wish me luck! Hope to have it back on the road today for the first time in about 15 years.

I also noticed the hockey puck thing. It must have just been a Canadian influence, as if it were Canadian, they would have done some rust proofing!

Edited September 10, 2014 by HuD 91gt

[HuD 91gt]

This is what comes up when you search Motor Master & ATV700 & Kawasaki & Universal Joint. Doesn't look like what's on my steering shaft??

[zKars]

Well, I don't believe the splined section is my issues, unless it is the splined end near the rack. The upper section was completed rusted together and had no movement at all upon disassembly. I had to disconnect the isolator, to get some room to disconnect the shaft from the rack. I think a lot of the play comes from the universal joints!

Just wanted to clarify. The splines with possible play I'm talking about are inside the steering column between the steering wheel and the firewall. Tough to check, just a last resort to get that last bit of play out.

I agree the splined connections in the engine bay are always very tight or rusted solid, no chance of play of there.

BTW, Go Flames!

[HuD 91gt]

Ahh, interesting. Good to know. I had no idea there was a splined section in there. I'll have to investigate further.

[Dr. 240Z]

"This is what comes up when you search Motor Master & ATV700 & Kawasaki & Universal Joint. Doesn't look like what's on my steering shaft??"

Call, 'Joe' @ 520-8884-0217 He will answer your questions and address your concerns accordingly.

George

[HuD 91gt]

Well the 240z passed the inspection, and they also gave me a "Nice work" on everything I had done. I'lll pass that on to you guys too

After the alignment, the car drives straight, and any looseness in the wheel actually seems to be gone. I don't really know how/why. I haven't tried wiggling the wheel to see if I still feel it there.

All in all i'm happy. Besides the fact I'm still having issues registering the vehicle. I dislike people who are incompetent with their jobs. 3 visits, and 3 different answers. Ugh.

[Captain Obvious]

Congrats on getting your inspection!

Older splined style column complete assy:

Exploded:

And here's the internal splines discussed above:

Edited September 11, 2014 by Captain Obvious

[rossiz]

i had a huge amount of play in my steering due to the steering rack bushings being old/soft - they let the rack move both laterally and vertically when the wheel was turned. you can see it by looking down into the engine bay while reaching in the window and moving the steering wheel back and forth. do it with the wheels on the ground to actually load the bushings and see if the rack moves.

another interesting tidbit: i installed a custom "hockey puck" from mgood (see post 137 in the "pay it forward" thread) made from a rubber impregnated fabric material (fabreeka?) - it is much stiffer than the oem and made a very noticeable improvement in my steering, even after i thought it was tight. the oem rubber, while in good shape, was pretty soft and the "squishyness" of the part allowed for some play at the wheel. my wheel feels really connected to the road now - the car feels super tight and very sharp.

he should make some more of those and offer them to the community - cool little mod...

[HuD 91gt]

I replaced the Rack bushings, and steering coupler already. Feels pretty good now since the alignment! Still movement in the wheels. Probably time to do the wheel bearding just because.

[zKars]

To add the overall usefulness of this thread, I can report on the installation and fitment of the Kawasaki/Motor Master ATV700 u-joints.

I am happy to report they are a PERFECT fit compared to the stock u-joints. No slop, no problem with lock clips, just a perfect press fit and clip fitment. Un-detectibly different from the stockers, except for the rust of course. Some of the easiest u-joint replacements I've had the displeasure of doing.

Paid $20.47 each via Amazon. Actually came from Powersport Superstore...

Wait, one more thing to report. One this set that I just did, the small amount of "slope" in the old joints was due exclusively from a lack of lube in the roller pins in the caps. Just dry little pins flopping around in there.

If I could have pumped some goop in there, it would have firmed right up. I say just drill a hole, in the center of the cross, use your pin tip your grease gun tip and pump 'em up! The centers of the cross are hollow and extend to each cup cavity. No room for a zerk of course. That's why they never had them to start with.

Edited September 15, 2014 by zKars

[zKars]

To add to my post about fitment of the ATV700 u-joint. There are at least two quite different styles of steering shaft u-joints. The kind with retaining "C" clips an those that are staked in place.

I believe this has been discussed previously. It appears the early cars got the c clip retained ones, then they moved to the staked style.

The staked style are easy to get apart. Well, not if you want to save the old u-joint, but you don't right? That's not the issue.

The problem is the staked ujoints have a 15mm cap, the C clip style caps are 16mm..

The other dimensions appear the same. The ATV700 u-joints cannot work with those yokes. There is even no provision for the C-clip is you could get them in place.

I pulled all my steering shafts and found that most are the staked later style, no surprise there. So back to the search for a u-joint that is the smaller size. Or get the yoke holes bored to 16mm...

Cap difference on the left, staked u-joint picture on the right.

I also tried to drill through one of the u-joint yokes to get a grease injection port. Don't know what that stuff if made of, but none of my excellent quality drill bits would do more then scatch it..... Somehow a plazma torch didn't seem right....

Anyone have some early steering shaft assemblies they don't want?

Edited September 16, 2014 by zKars

[Captain Obvious]

I also tried to drill through one of the u-joint yokes to get a grease injection port. Don't know what that stuff if made of, but none of my excellent quality drill bits would do more then scatch it

Seeing as how the yoke is actually the inner race for the rollers, I'm sure it's hardened.

You got any carbide drill bits?