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Just ordered my Rebello 3.0, now what


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Still waiting on the replacement engine from Dave sorry to say. Been 4 months. Race car sitting in my garage. Will post pics of the upgrades in a few days. But have added: a new fire bottle, covered the tool box openings with a lighter cover, redid the fuel line plumbing and added a new filter, laid in some gold film heat insulation, got new rotors (had to machine spacers for the bolt holes), new race pads, painted the calipers, got the original BSR front airdam refreshed, and having a FG bumper painted chrome. Rebuilt an R180 with 4:38 gears and a Quaife, all new bearings at the corners, adjustable pedals, and a side extension of the dash to include a dual EGT, two O2 sensor gauges, a tranny oil temp and an electronic fuel pressure gauge. Plus the driver air vent fabricated for the 1975 BSR GTU car and the white shift knob from that car as well.

Edited by gnosez
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  • 1 month later...

Motor installed and mostly hooked up.  I intentionally left the drive shaft off just in case and I haven't messed with the throttle linkage, otherwise its all hooked up.  When cranking the motor for the first time i got a bit of a scary clunk noise, it sounded toward the rear of the motor.

 

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Strange and frustrating at the same time. It was tested on their dyno so its hard to believe its coming from in the engine and why would it start doing it now.

Could it be something in the ringgear on the flywheel?

Have you sent the video to Rebello and ask what they think.

Edited by EuroDat
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Engine is full of oil? What about coolant? I'd remove the fan belt and see if the water pump, alternator or fan hub is making noise, I'd also remove the cap and rotor. And give it a turn or two just to rule out some stuff.

I'd also pull the spark plugs and inspect for any impact damage, then check under the valve cover for a missing lash pad, rocker arm spring or something silly like that.

If the visible stuff on the engine looks ok and the noise still exists. I'd pull the start and check the teeth, and would also feel inclined to remove the clutch and pressure plate, checking the tightness of the flywheel bolts and looking for any weird wear on that flywheel.

I dunno... im not a mechanic.

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The motor was not dyno tuned. It is full of oil, specifically the break in oil recommended by Rebello. Regarding the flywheel I mounted it while the motor was out of the car and I'm very sure I torqued down all the bolts properly. I am unaware of any adjustments that can be made to the flywheel so maybe you guys can teach me something there. I think after checking the plugs I'll rotate the motor by hand and hope to find something

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Pulled the plugs and found no damage

Pulled the starter and found no damage to the starter or the area of the flywheel I can see

Rotated the motor by hand clockwise and met resistance at what appears to be the top of #2 and #5.  

Carefully rotated the motor counterclockwise and met resistance at what looks to be the #1 and #6

 

I would like to think its something in the clutch or transmission but i cant think what that might be.  The transmission is in neutral and i still get clunking with the clutch pedal pressed 

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Sorry, I'm not trying to muddy the waters... I'm not sure if there even exists the need for some sort of adjustment on the starter, just suggesting that it might be a possibility. Sounds to me like there's a "tight" spot once per crank revolution. I've never seen any sort of adjustment on the starter engagement, but I've never messed with the gear reduction version either.

 

Maybe you could toss the old starter back in just to see if the clunk goes away?

 

On edit, just saw your most recent message. I'm going to let the dust settle a little and see what happens.

Edited by Captain Obvious
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I soo hope I'm wrong but this sounds like an internal engine problem to me. Flywheels & starters tend to make more of a scraping sound which may or may not be intermittent. I wouldn't crank it with the starter until I pulled the valve cover & visually check out the valve train. Can't see anything wrong? Put a long plastic soda straw into each plug hole & carefully rotate the engine to TDC #1 cyl. compression stroke & check the cam timing. Watch the valves & straws while turning the engine & you may see the reason for the resistance.

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The motor was not dyno tuned.

I was getting mixed up with Oranngetang. There has been a lot of posting back and forth about noisy valvetrain and dizzy at 180degrees. I got lost i the trees.

Back to the starter. What made me think of that. You are using a fidanza flywheel and ??? Starter. Maybe there is a high spot in the meshing of the gears or the tolerances are really tight and that is causing a tick in the starter motor stator. The starter is flexing with it goes over a high spot.

Now you found hard spots when you turn it by hand, makes me think it could be something else.

If you put your hand on the motor, can you feel it when it clunks? You could buy one of those industrial stethoscopes and try to localize it with that. That don't cost must $10.00 and they can tell you a lot more than listening from a (short) distance.

https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00372602/stethoscope-industrial

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