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My Engine Build


Ben's Z

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Runs yes, buts I havent seen them on the strut towers yet. My car has runs (in original blue) under the top door hinge on the drivers door frame. Hard to see until you take the front fenders off. I think they came with the extra options packageLOL

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I went out to the garage last night and checked the run out on the crank again. My .002 feeler definitely fit between the center thrust bearing and the crank, so it passes. I don't know whether to run with it or not. I am going to mike the crank caps width and see if that cap is narrower for some reason. I am also going to find my old bearings if possible.

I cant remember the caps being different in thickness. The only shells that are different are the nr 4 thrust bearing. I tossed the old ones i had when I cleaned up the shed. Its puzzling to say the least, because it almost impossable to mount them incorrectly and still get the crankshaft to turn freely. Im going from memory and the FSM which aint much help in this situation.:disappoin

Anyone else got any ideas???

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I had a relative take a look at my bearing issue last night and he said "run with it". A .020 feeler gauge will fit between the bearing sticking out and the journal next to it. In my opinion with the thrust bearing doing its job there is no way it could hit that bearing.

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I got the answer to this question from my machine shop today. #1 and #7 bearings are wider than 2,3,5,6. My wider bearing is currently on #2 so I am going to move it to the #1 spot. I think I got lucky and the other wide one is on #7, because none of the other are sticking past. I will check one more time. The machine shop doesn't feel this will matter because the thrust bearing is less than .007 and I could fit a .020 feeler gauge between that wider bearing on #2 and the journal for the throw for the rod.

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Hi Ben,

I would take all the caps off (except no. 4 because its different) and check if the bearings are different in any way. If not, the only conclusion I can come up with is the manufacturer has made the bearings all the same width (one size fits all) to cut cost or something like that. The bearings could also fit another model nissan engine and they are made to suit both engines. In that case it should not be a problem. You could ask the supplier to check if that is the case.

In the end the crank turns freely and the end play is within spec. You plastigaged the bearings so you know they are not over tolerance. I would then move on to the next step in the rebuild.

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Even you think you had a bad luck painting, i think you did a good job. Reading this kinda thing gives me more self confidence, that i can do it. I would be interested in hearing more about how you prepared the engine area and about priming. Did you have both master cylinders, fuel lines and hydraulic lines on engine while you painted?

CheerZ

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Pretty simple really. I took everything off and since I was going to install a new brake booster I took off the master cylinder and taped it up in a big ball. I left the clutch master on the firewall. I used aluminum foil around the cross member and I also pulled the bunched fuel and brake lines away from the frame and firewall and taped them off. I then used purple power degreaser straight up and washed the engine bay with a yellow kitchen sponge mostly using the abrasive green side. This in itself made the engine bay 80% better and if you didn't want to paint it I would recommend this along with then buffing out the paint as it does rough it up some. After I washed it doing that I used 3M red scotch brite pads to rough up the paint. You really want to make sure you get all the nooks and crannies as the primer has to adhere to this. I used a PPG white epoxy primer to spray the engine bay. On my crappy gravity fed gun I sprayed two good coats at around 45psi. I let this sit 48 hours and came back and wet sanded any areas with runs or orange peel with 800 grit, but I also used those scotch brite pads again. If I was going to do it again I would use 600 grit and wet sand with that. I then sprayed single stage Dupont acrylic enamel as I mentioned above at about 60 psi to make sure I didn't "tiger stripe" the metallic. If I was going to do it over again I would do base coat clear coat and use urethane paint. I would not recommend single stage with metallics and you cannot wet sand out and runs and buff this paint. I now have to buy a touch up gun, scuff those spots again and touch them up.

Even you think you had a bad luck painting, i think you did a good job. Reading this kinda thing gives me more self confidence, that i can do it. I would be interested in hearing more about how you prepared the engine area and about priming. Did you have both master cylinders, fuel lines and hydraulic lines on engine while you painted?

CheerZ

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