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$50 fuel rail

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2' aluminium stock off ebay $30. 6 -1/4 NPTx5/16 barbs from Lowes @$1.60, 2 -3/8 NPTx5/16 barbs from Fastenal @$2.03, loaned from a plumber friend taps & bits @$0, 4lbs baking soda for blasting gun from Dollar Store $2.00. $100 on beer. Easy to do. I'm gonna give myself a 8 out of 10. Next one will be perfect.post-24724-14150819316074_thumb.jpg

post-24724-14150819315289_thumb.jpg

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Fantastic! Just fantastic...

I bought that same 6 AN stock you did, (really great price, huh!). Stuff is VERY nice. Also, run some aluminum polish on it and it will shine like sparkling new chrome.

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The blue and white paired wire I spy is often used in the telephone industry I think.

120ohm/100ohm E1/T1 wire-wrap cross connects

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How do you go about drilling the main line to feed all 6 injectors?

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looks strait forward and simple, but my question is why? I see people using aftermarket fuel rails and homemade ones from time to time but is there a reason other than it looks neat?

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Ben the aluminium rail already has the 1/2" feed line drilled in it http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash6.html. And yes that is Blue, blue & blue white twisted pair phone wire. FYI everybody on DSL that's all it takes to connect you to the info highway, 2 little wires. Coaxial is the way to go. And my quest is to do away with all hardlines on my motor. They get crudded up.

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Very nice and thanks for the info. On my 78, I've got my OEM setup rehabbed and running well, but I strongly considered going this route rather than take the time to clean it up. It may sound like a stupid question, but when you do something like this, do you regulate the fuel pressure by replacing the stock fuel pump with an adjustable one?

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You ordered 2 feet? How did you space the injectors?

Ben the aluminium rail already has the 1/2" feed line drilled in it http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash6.html. And yes that is Blue, blue & blue white twisted pair phone wire. FYI everybody on DSL that's all it takes to connect you to the info highway, 2 little wires. Coaxial is the way to go. And my quest is to do away with all hardlines on my motor. They get crudded up.

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I'd like to know the answer to this as I am going to be installing a Bell Engineering Rising Rate FPR with my 280zxt swap. It still requires the OE regulator.

Very nice and thanks for the info. On my 78, I've got my OEM setup rehabbed and running well, but I strongly considered going this route rather than take the time to clean it up. It may sound like a stupid question, but when you do something like this, do you regulate the fuel pressure by replacing the stock fuel pump with an adjustable one?

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post-16285-14150819319711_thumb.jpg

Here is the same fuel rail used on my car. From the same manufacturer. I had to hook up one of those cheap holley fuel pressure regulators on the passenger firewall. Mine is dead headed, but both ends of the fuel rail are tapped just in case I want to run a return line. I have the rail drilled and tapped for a pressure regulator at the back.

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Here's the measurments from Willoughby Z, thanking him again, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread43897.html. Scroll down to #21. I'm going to be putting a FPR on the firewall close to where the coolant in and out is on the passenger's side and running the return down to the hardline going back to the tank, on passenger's side. The one for a '78 only has 1 inlet and the return on bottom. So the end of the rail closet to windshield will be connected by about 2' high pressure 5/16' fuel line to the FPR then low pressure from the bottom or return of the FPR down above the starter but below the battery down that flat part of the frame where the hard fuel lines are coming from the tank and connect to the return. It works in my head but is hard to explain. I just woke up so sorry for the rambling. My medication takes about 30 minutes to kick in.

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It looks just like yours buddy. Same exact part. You chose the more adult OEM finish with the blasting and it looks spot on perfect. I was far more lazy and just hit it with some aluminum polish and called it a day...

You should be very proud of your work, it looks great!!!

But like you, now that I have built one, think I could do it much better this time around. We always learn on our first attempt.

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Does the FPR you have support pressures high enough for EFI?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]54273[/ATTACH]

Here is the same fuel rail used on my car. From the same manufacturer. I had to hook up one of those cheap holley fuel pressure regulators on the passenger firewall. Mine is dead headed, but both ends of the fuel rail are tapped just in case I want to run a return line. I have the rail drilled and tapped for a pressure regulator at the back.

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So proud of my fuel rail and now it has a small leak on the line to the FPR. I used Permatex red gasket adhesive for thread sealer, stupid I realize now, it was high temp and claimed to be fuel resistant but it ain't! My neighbor who is a HVAC contractor said I should use flux and plumbing solder on the brass fuel barbs then screw them into the aluminium fuel rail. Anybody have any thoughts or experiences? Zedyone_kenobi what did you use for thread sealer?

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Flux is acidic and corrosive.

Use yellow teflon tape for sealing fuel line threads. Many have used it with success.

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teflon tape is impermeable to everything up to and including uranium hexafluoride, one of the most caustic substances known to mankind.

Teflon's first major usage WAS, in fact, for seals on the pumps on the gaseous diffusion plant at Oak Ridge during enrichment of the Uranium for the first atomic boms.

I'm pretty sure it'll stand up to gasoline.

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FYI I thought that yellow has some sort of gas resistant compound added to it however wikipedia reports the tapes are colour-coded only to thickness. (Yellow is thicker than white).

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