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noob valve adjusting on 1978 280z


argniest

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I have an MSD Blaster 2 coil on my system. Nice coil, but I don't see it listed at AZ. I see a Blaster 3 coil for $47, but I'm unfamiliar with the Blaster 3. I'm guessing it's an improved version of the Blaster 2? Mine is a bit smaller than the OEM coil. I had to put a wrap of rubber innertube around the coil to mount it in the OEM bracket. You can also buy an MSD brand bracket. You should be able to find these at your local parts store.

I think you have to order NGK wires. I haven't found them locally in my area. Here's an auction for a set on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NGK-8105-Spark-Plug-Wires-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3a280Q5AQQhashZitem3a64cf3b36QQitemZ250799405878QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I would think any cap and rotor would be fine -- available at an auto parts store of your choice. Your local parts store might not have all items in stock, but it would probably take no more than 1 day to get them in from a nearby warehouse.

Keep in mind there is still one item in your system that could be bad -- your ignition module. Try the rest, and see how your car runs. If you still have ignition problems, then consider either a replacement OEM ignition module or a GM HEI retrofit.

Is the ignition modle aka the transistor ignition unit. If so, I was unaware of its existince for the most part until recently. I hope thats not bad. But as you said, I WILL be trying the other stuff first. Mainly I want to make sure I get a compatible ignition unit.

UPDATE AGAIN: OK, I called a local Advacend Auto and by tomorrow morning they can have a borg-warner ignition coil, cap, rotor, and ignition pickup.

And I didnt even have to leave my desk or pay 1 cent to order them Nice!

But is borg-warner stuff going to be OK on my Z car? I hope so....otherwise its gonna be another week before my normal Z car parts supplier can get all this stuff to me.

If its OK to use this stuff, that means tomorrow morning I could, for the first time in a long time, have a very well running Z car!!

Edited by argniest
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When you get your car sorted out, you should upgrade to a 280zx distributor.

Also with rust in your tank you should install a filter before your fuel pump.

When you feel brave, acid wash and sealing your tank is a fun thing to do with POR15 gas tank sealer.

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When you get your car sorted out, you should upgrade to a 280zx distributor.

Also with rust in your tank you should install a filter before your fuel pump.

When you feel brave, acid wash and sealing your tank is a fun thing to do with POR15 gas tank sealer.

I have installed the G3 clear fuel filter between tank and pump. Check.

I have had the gas tank insides washed, boiled, acid, and sealed 2x by a family member who restores high end cars for a living :). Check. It will outlive me for sure. Then I used Eastwood companies 4 step chemical/painting process for the outside. Its better than new now. I had to make sure that was done, before I replaced everything else going all the way to the fuel injectors.

What is the general procedure and thought process to move up to a 280ZX distributor?

And is it a direct drop-in?

Thanks for advice once again.

Edited by argniest
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BTW When you mentioned rust it made me think your #6 injector may be clogged.

Did this on my 77. Easy and great upgrade: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

All my injectors are brand new. I installed them after I reinstalled the brand new fuel tank, cleaned out all metal fuel lines, all new fuel hoses, new fuel pump, damper, new G3 fuel filter in back of car, new OEM nissan fuel filter in engine area, cleaned fuel rails, new injector hoses, new injectors. I mean the entire fuel delivery system was brand new, before I let any fuel touch my new injectors. Just lettin ya know. :)

The problems all stem from the fact that I have triple checked the spark on the car, and its bad news. All of the spark plug wires showed intermittent spark, and long durations where it just disappeared. I really believe that is the cause of most of my problems....maybe tomorrow I will have it fixed. Im just waiting to hear from you all, if I can use those parts I mentioned above. Or if I should wait until a week or two to get the best parts available. From my Z parts supplier who has been working on them since 1978

Edited by argniest
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Are the parts Borg Warner or BWD? Borg Warner makes power train parts like transmissions. BWD makes electronic parts like those you mentioned. I use BWD and have found that the parts are of good quality, and at least a small step above some suppliers in materials, like brass electrodes over aluminum for the rotor cap. I don't see plug wires on your list, have they already been replaced?

The ignition module on your car is up under the passenger dash by the fuse box. Your initial symptoms fit ignition module problems to a degree. I had my 1976 module go bad, it started cutting out and misfiring if I went above 3500 to 4000 rpm and would not stop misfiring until I turned the key off and restarted the engine. But the module's don't seem to all fail the same way, they have different symptoms. From what I've read, usually the engine just dies, then will restart after a few minutes, sometimes longer.

Ignition pickup coils don't seem to go bad that often, you might wait on replacing that part. It would be worth checking the gap on yours though to be sure it's right.

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The ignition module is common to all plugs and injectors. Your problem is rich on 4&5 and lean on 6. This seems more like injectors.

However it could even be something weird like obstructions in the fuel rail. Some more checks to do.

Try getting 6 glasses (all same) then pull rail and have each injector sit in a glass. Crank and fill the glasses to see fuel flow across the 6. Watch out for spark.

This is an old tip from Wayne Monteath of Ottawa.

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Are the parts Borg Warner or BWD?.

OK, in my notes I wrote down BWD, but then the guy at auto store also mentioned Borg Warner. I assumed they were the same. But he did tell me again, BWD was who made all the 4 parts I was asking abut, and that they said they could get my tomorrow morning.

I don't see plug wires on your list, have they already been replaced?

Well, the NGK blue wires, look pretty new to me, but of course I dont know their history. I bought some universal plugs, but didnt realize I had to cut them to my own length and then I suppose crimp end on. I am taking them back, and will just have to wait a few says for the NGK NE-61's is what I thought the guy told me.

And yes, I have several sets of new plugs.

The ignition module on your car is up under the passenger dash by the fuse box. Your initial symptoms fit ignition module problems to a degree. I had my 1976 module go bad, it started cutting out and misfiring if I went above 3500 to 4000 rpm and would not stop misfiring until I turned the key off and restarted the engine. But the module's don't seem to all fail the same way, they have different symptoms. From what I've read, usually the engine just dies, then will restart after a few minutes, sometimes longer.

My car died the other night when I was driving it. ANd it died two times in January, when it was like 9 degrees outside. Didnt know what to think of that, but since they as I said, I have replaced everything in fuel system. So it seems that you had a similar problem with yours dying. I also waited a few minutes, and it always restarted. Of course after past few days, I have learned a lot more. I know how to check fuel inj with noid light, and spark with 3 different kinds of testers,....and various things with my multimeter.

And yup, I looked in car and manual about the transistor ignition module, now I am learning about that next :)

Ignition pickup coils don't seem to go bad that often, you might wait on replacing that part. It would be worth checking the gap on yours though to be sure it's right.

Will it hurt anything if I replace the ignition coil tomorrow morning with this BWD? the thing is, that is a REALLY easy thing for me to do. And some other people are telling me, it could be the ignition coil. If not, pickup coil next. As long as it wont hurt anything, I woud like to replace ignition coil. I mean it should take me like 3 minutes.

Taking out the DIST and fixing pickup coil NOT easy for me. I have never really even seen them before execpt from the outside. And unti now, havent really known what they do exactly. BUt tonight I have been studying about the dizzy in the z car, and other related components. Its at least making a lot more sense than a few days ago :)

Edited by argniest
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Blue, good point, I was referring back to what I thought was one of the original problems, car dieing and then waiting to restart, but to be honest, I might have it confused with someone else's problem. argniest is all over the forum! (not a problem, just hard to track the various threads...).

I think that the thought now is that misfires are causing plug fouling, which looks like rich running. I do agree though, if the injectors come out again, verifying proper flow is worth doing.

argniest, I think this has been mentioned before (by me, I'm a big FSM fan) - the FSM will give you the same test procedures as the "Bible" but with much more information specific to your car (like how the electronic ignition system works). You'll need it if you replace your magnetic pickup in the distributor, for instance.

You're on the edge of the old "replace and hope" slippery slope...

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The ignition module is common to all plugs and injectors. Your problem is rich on 4&5 and lean on 6. This seems more like injectors.

Well I watched the spark patterns today 3 different times. ANd always numbers 5 and 4 were missing for long periods of time. Im talking up to 2 seconds, and even 1 second miss when revving engine. It seems if the spark was that messed up on 5 and 4, that would explain why the plugs on 5 and 4 were also looking screwy, no? Of course I dont know anything for sure...Im just saying. And also #6 was missing too, just not as bad as 5 and 4.

Numbers 1, 2, 3 were missing, but not as many times, nor for as long duration as 5 and 4. Number 2 was pretty bad though. I mean I saw all of them missing, but #1 was the most normal looking during all three of my tests.

And I cant say this for sure, but I also thought that the spark looked dimmer/weaker sometimes. ANd when that happened, I think it was more yellowish than white or blueish, if that makes any sense at all.

However it could even be something weird like obstructions in the fuel rail. Some more checks to do.
Welllllllllll :) I did clean everything thoroughly ...im talking all metal fuel lines, fuel rails, every hose is brand new...etc. New tank, new fuel filters in back and front. I wanted to be sure I had everything spotless before installing new injectors. I do understand why you are saying to do those FI tests....but I am gonna wait a little longer...until I have taken other things out of the equation related to spark issues. Since it looks to be major problems with spark in most of the plug wires. That is hard evidence to me, based on what everyone has been telling me past few days. Including people on here, my Z parts person, and an online mechanic friend who has spent counless hours with me at night to help me change everything, in my quest to renew everything in the car. Edited by argniest
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You're on the edge of the old "replace and hope" slippery slope...

I know it seems that way, but from day 1 with the car, I told myself, I wanted to renew everything I could with the car. Its just been a long crazy winter, in learning about all this stuff. And doing all this stuff. Everyone has been soooooooooooo helpful with my project. Friends on here, other online mechanic friends, remote family members who I occasionally visit and discuss things about the car - who work on restoring cars or just in the automotive repair, and even a few local mechanics too, etc etc etc

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Argniest I love your attitude, perseverance, and very clear, concise and well formatted posts! Also your logic and careful approach to tackling problems is superb... keep it up!

Stick with the NGK plugs and wires and you should have no problems.

An easy way to check spark is simply to idle the car then pull one plug at a time. You can feel the spark with your hand on the boot and you can notice how far off the plug that you can hold the boot away before the spark won't jump. It should be the same for all plugs.spark.jpg

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